Photos: Frances Rivetti
Finally I made it to Amsterdam after years of dashing back and forth from Europe (England mainly) visiting family. This fall I made it a priority. It was a solo trip but that didn't stop me covering many miles and cramming in canal walks and window shopping (not the windows that might first come to mind), and fantastic museums to my hearts content. Buzzing throughout the morning, afternoon and evening and rich in history, The Hoxton, Amsterdam did not disappoint as the place to sleep, eat and drink on Herengracht canal in the bustling boutique district of the Nine Streets.
With a central population of just under a million, compared with the almost four million people who pack the Los Angeles metro area and Greater London's community of almost 9 million, it's no wonder Amsterdam feels small in comparison. And given that most folk pedal their way through their treasured city for work, school drop-off, shopping and socializing, it's an extraordinarily refreshing city to step out in. Yes, I did have to dodge a few fast movers but what a contrast to other cities, Naples for instance, where it would've been motorized scooter power that stopped me in my tracks as residents go about their daily business.
After three plus decades in the States, I'm so car dependent that I'm almost beside myself with joy to hop onto public transportation to travel distances in Europe that are too far to walk. I walk all the time on errands at home in Sonoma County, Northern California, but I'm hard pushed to get too far out of town only using public transport. The fact I made it back to London from Amsterdam direct in only four hours on Eurostar still feels like a bit of a dream.
I like to tell myself if I was living back in my native UK I'd be dashing around Europe like nobody's business, but in reality, cost logistics come into play and I'd have to budget for travel like I do here.
Regardless, I saved my travel spends for this year for my trip back to celebrate my Mum's 80th and a side trip to Amsterdam was my treat to myself. Because it was my first time visiting Holland, I wasn't going to cut corners on a nice, plush boutique spot in which to base myself for three nights the heart of the scenic canals.
My only agenda was to soak in the city's atmosphere, wander and explore and visit as many museums as I could manage to fit in.
My first impression was that Amsterdam is a city of youthful energy. I like that about it. Everyone I talked to appeared to take pride in their surrounds.
Every block in the canal district is packed with small, independent businesses, cafes, stores.
Gardening doesn't require the usual plot of earth.
Cheese rules.
As does art and freedom of expression. But not in any intimidating way.
After looking at a lot of places online, I'd settled on the Hoxton, Amsterdam. The Hoxton concept started in London's East End in 2006 and transforms interesting old buildings and car parks into really terrific, personality-packed neighborhood hotels.
My smaller of its room options was more than enough for my needs given that I was out and about during the daytime and evening hours and ready to crash by the time I turned in. I was pleasantly surprised by how plush the bedding and bathroom were and I was charmed by the tea selection, Dutch cookies, guide books, vintage radio and phone and best of all, a mini fridge with free milk and water replenished daily.
It's not rocket science, but I've stayed in many a stateside boutique hotel that doesn't get it that real people drink tea as well as coffee and often with milk. Hydrating one's guests with complimentary water can only be a good idea, right?
The weather hadn't turned in early October, but I imagine the heated towel racks and room heaters keep it toasty once winter hits.
Mapping out my walking route each day was easy thanks to the in room maps and guidebooks.
I indulged in a delicious full breakfast each morning in Lottis, the hotel's super stylish and yet ever so comfortable neighborhood restaurant and bar. It was fun to eavesdrop a little on business meetings with fashionable Europeans. I don't speak Dutch so I didn't have much of an idea what they were talking about but that didn't matter, it was just very energizing to soak in another, much more relaxed culture.
If you're in Amsterdam and not staying at this lovely hotel, I still recommend you stop in for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, a coffee or cocktail in one of their cozy lounge chairs. And you don't have to be too hip to fit in, unlike in some American boutique hotels which can sometimes be a bit austere.
Staff at the Hoxton were delightful. In retrospect, I imagine they're hired on their ability to think on their own two feet. It didn't feel like a chain hotel stay and most definitely not corporate in any way.
I'm going to have to post a follow up feature on my brief visit to Amsterdam. But suffice to say, if I return some day, I'm definitely heading back to the Hoxton. I think it was one of my favorite hotel experiences in a while. There's a Hoxton in LA that I'd like to check out next and London in 2023.
The Hoxton, Amsterdam
Herengracht 255
1016 BJ, Amsterdam
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