Southern Sonoma Country Life

A Visit to Di Rosa Center for Contemporary Art — A Quirky, World Class Collection in a Secluded Carneros Oasis

Glass Bottle House by Mildred Howard

If you, like me, have driven by the metal sheep that dotted the hill at the entrance to the former di Rosa Preserve: Art and Nature, now known as the di Rosa Center for Contemporary Art, en-route between Sonoma and Napa, countless times and never made a visit, I highly recommend you put this quirky, secluded, world-class collection of an art-park on top of your summer to-do list.  

Lots of folk, locals such as myself, assumed the Carneros estate an exclusive winery (it was, back in the 1800s prior to the phylloxera epidemic which wiped out much of the region's earliest vineyards and for a while, later) — hence the name change to a more obvious art center vibe a couple of years prior to the more recent (human) pandemic. 

Rene di Rosa purchased these 217 acres back in 1960. He and his late wife, artist Veronica di Rosa used the profits from selling adjacent vineyard land to build their dream art-park in 1997.

They left their rambling paradise with an extensive art collection in two galleries, a sculpture meadow, olive grove and serene, 35-acre lake to the public via the Napa County Land Trust. 

The metal sheep, created by Veronica, have been relocated to a more bucolic spot at the back of the property, while the large, Mark di Suvero metallic orange sculpture, titled: "For Veronica" now graces the entrance to the art-park. 

I was invited to join a group of art-loving friends for a first time tour. Only one in our group of six had visited before and that was many years ago when she was taking an art class at College of Marin. We were all blown away by the collection of contemporary younger and regional artists that the di Rosa's had collected over the years.

A docent told us that Rene was a bargain hunter and scoured Northern California colleges for works by students and teachers. He certainly had an eye for the essence of this unique part of the world. 

He collected more than 1600 objects over five decades, from the 1960s until his death in 2010. And he considered it a kind of  "incorrect museum" — a potent concept in contrast to the aesthetic and social conventions of mainstream museums and galleries. 

Rene was unpretentious and anti-conservative in his approach to his collection, informed by the Bay-Area's unique artistic milieu, focusing on regional artists he deemed as too often over looked by critics and historians for imbuing a sense of "rascality". He held faith with the ideal that the Bay Area art scene reflects the regions radical social and political climate in the postwar years, a notable development that played a consequential role in the development of modern American art.

Click here to read more about the di Rosas. 

Sonoma County's David Best's "Rhinocar" — a 1976 Oldsmobile covered in found objects is one of the museum's most popular items in its eclectic collection. I was happy to hear after posting images on Instagram that Sonoma County contemporary artists Michael Garlington and Natalia Bertotti have been commissioned for a sculpture for di Rosa. I'm going to visit their studio later this summer and look forward to sharing more of their extraordinary work here on Southern Sonoma Country Life. 

Smoke damage from the 2017 wildfires impacted the late di Rosa's private residence and much of the collection, which underwent substantial conservation cleaning. The entire living room art was moved from the residence into Gallery 2.  

Considering all that has happened since the 2017 rename, the energy and excitement in reopening, even if on limited days/hours, is palpable and we visited on one of the 25th anniversary fundraiser days, which was lively and yet not overcrowded. There are lots of volunteers who are more than happy to chat about the collection and impart intriguing background info.

I think my favorite piece is the Angel-Go-Round by David Ireland though I was enthralled by the whole experience.

Admission is free to those under 17 years old, educators with school IDs and di Rosa members. General admission is $20 or $17 for seniors, military and students.

The museum and its courtyard is available to bilingual school tours and to rent for weddings — large, micro or elopements and private events.

The di Rosa Center for Contemporary Art is located at 5200 Sonoma Highway, Napa. For more information call 707-226-5991 or visit dirosaart.com. 

First Ever Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience a Huge Success

It was my pleasure to check out Saturday's Vintner's Plaza Grand Tasting at the first ever Healdsburg Food & Wine Experience. a three-day celebration featuring the best of Sonoma County and world-renowned food and wines.

This extensive festival showcased our region’s lauded makers – farmers, growers, winemakers and chefs – alongside globally recognized wines from the greatest wine regions of the world.

The goal of this new festival was to highlight the vibrant culinary diversity, sustainable farming practices and deep connection to the agriculture of Sonoma as it relates to the rest of the world. It certainly was an extraordinary event, with every small attention to detail in the connection of so many movers and shakers in the wine and food world in our county.

If you missed your chance to meet, eat/drink with and learn from a blend of super talented celebrity, Michelin-starred and James Beard award- winning chefs, world-renowned wine experts, wine makers and grape growers all in one place, then you'd best put the Healdsburg Food & Wine Experience on your radar for next May.

First stop before hitting the Vintner's Plaza Grand Tasting Experience was the Healdsburg Bar & Grill for tasty Sips & Sliders. 

I was thoroughly impressed by all the effort that went into beautifying each tasting booth. Lovely flowers, thoughtful shaded presentation, lots of care with hydrating guests in the heat and recycling. 

Packed with options, activities and unique locations, the event schedule offered a lineup suited for everyone’s tastes and pocketbook!  Customize your weekend experience next year. Options vary based on purchased ticket package, featuring a variety of culinary experiences with celebrity chefs (I caught Award-winning chef and restaurateur, Fan Favorite and contestant on Top Chef, Food Network star and judge, coach and judge on Fox’s Next Level Chef Nyesha Arrington crafting delicious tacos featured above at the Matheson), seminars, bbq and ranch tours, a country and western concert and super exclusive VIP evening parties.

Click here to see all the events that took place over the weekend in various scenic locales. 

To showcase this new event's commitment to the region, HW&FE plans to make a significant contribution to the Sonoma County Grape Growers Foundation towards healthcare, affordable housing and other critical support services for the Foundation’s farmers and families.

Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience is set to create a new scholarship fund for economically-challenged students of Healdsburg High School Future Farmers of America who wish to pursue a career in agriculture and farming.

It was rather a whirlwind visit for me as I had family visiting all weekend, though 2033 I for one will be sure to keep my calendar clear for the whole weekend to savor more of the wide range of events and experiences. Fun crowd, friendly folk making sure everyone had the best time. 

Locals may enjoy a volunteer stint or two during the weekend as a great way to experience the event. Check out the website for news on next year's celebration. 

Tickets Available for VIP Vineyard Truck Tour & Dutton Ranch BBQ With Texas Cowboy Chef Tim Love — Sunday, May 22nd, 2022

As part of  Sonoma County Winegrowers' co-founding partnership with this coming weekend's inaugural Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience, it is offering its exclusive Truck Talks for the first time to consumers 

Historically, Truck Talks have been part of the county winegrowers' outreach and education when it hosts media or Somms/wine trade in Sonoma County.  Guests have the opportunity to spend time with lauded local grape growers and experience Sonoma County from each farmer's perspective. 

As part of this year's first Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience, this literally equates to grape growers picking up 2-4 consumers in a truck from their hotel and giving them a unique Sonoma County tour -  to a particular vineyard the grower farms to taste the wine from that specific parcel. There are stop offs at favorite coffee shop and other area favorites.

This is your invitation to walk the vineyards, touch the soil, drink the wines and learn how wine is made from the person who makes it. A true “maker behind the magic” experience.

After the individual tours, all of the grape growers will bring their guests to Dutton Ranch in the Russian River for an old-fashioned BBQ where wines from all of the growers participating will be poured.

Truck Talks take place on Sunday, May 22nd from 9am-2pm (approximate timing) with Truck Talks  from 9am-11:30am and lunch at Dutton Ranch hosted by “Texas Cowboy Chef”, Tim Love from 11:30am-2:00pm (approximate timing).

Shuttles will return guests back to hotels and parking lots in Healdsburg mid afternoon. 

Located in the heart of California wine country, the Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience is a three-day celebration featuring the best of Sonoma County and world-renowned food and wines.

The festival will showcase the region’s makers – farmers, growers, winemakers and chefs – alongside globally recognized wines from the greatest wine regions of the world. If you're interested in checking out the festival, tickets are still available for the Vintners Grand Plaza Tasting on Saturday 21st May as well as the Vineyard Tours and Dutton Ranch event.

The Vintners Plaza Grand Tasting features wines from Sonoma, Napa and internationally renowned regions. Delicious foods will be prepared by local and internationally known chefs who will present their creations. Enjoy the live music of band Wobbly World and meet some of your favorite chefs who will be signing autographs throughout the day. Click here for more info. 

Travel Tuesday — Inntravel's Beginner's Guide to European Walking Holidays

Inntravel is best known for seeking out foot travel along the lesser-taken paths of Europe. Since walking holidays are more popular than ever these days, the European-based travel company has commissioned the experienced route finder, Andy Montgomery to write a new online guide. 

“Finding the right walking holiday is the crucial first step.  Going too far out of your comfort zone can ruin a holiday, but get it right and every trip for years to come will be on foot,” she says. Among the important topics covered that new and inexperienced walkers will want to consider are: 

• How to decide upon the location: considering temperature, number of daylight hours, reaching the holiday, avoiding the busy honeypot sites, whether to opt for an itinerant hotel-to-hotel or a single centre holiday, and the importance of building in rest days.
• Tips for judging how difficult the walking will be: length, grading, number of days, ascents and descents, terrain, and whether to choose a circular or linear route are all considerations.
• Whether to opt for the flexibility of a self-guided holiday with route notes and maps provided, or a guided group walking with like-minded people who are all required to move at the same pace.
• What to pack for a walking holiday:  the best footwear for the terrain and quick dry, breathable clothing, the benefits of walking poles, a rucksack, and miscellaneous items like knee supports, sunscreen, first aid, sunglasses, a flask for water, and Vaseline for blister prevention.
• Preparing and getting fit for your walking holiday such as the need to break in new boots and walking for a distance at home on consecutive days, not just once a week.

More than 40% of new customers this year are opting for entry level (easy grade 1 and grade1-2 routes) walking holidays, according to Inntravel. As a result more flexible and accessible walking holidays have been introduced for 2022.

THREE NEW EASY EUROPEAN WALKING HOLIDAYS FOR ABSOLUTE BEGINNERS

Guernsey Herm and Sark
Gentle Guernsey and its islands offer a delicious blend of both exotic and foreign, yet are reassuringly familiar –perfect for those new to a walking holiday. Introduced in April, the holiday combines a single centre 4-star hotel stay in one of Europe’s prettiest harbor towns with a pass for the local bus network to access walks that explore the dramatic cliff tops, quiet country lanes and crowd-free beaches.  Price: from £445pp based on 2 sharing, including 4 nights’ B&B, 1 dinner, daily bus pass, return transfers to Guernsey airport or ferry port, maps and walking notes, and GPS navigation. Grade 1 and 1-2.

Wonders of Western Sicily
Discover the quiet charms of Western Sicily and the dreamy Egadi Islands with their distinct North African accent and gentle pace of life. From the medieval hill-town of Erice, walk to vibrant Trapani, where an hour’s ferry takes walkers to Marettimo, the furthest-flung of the Egadi Islands. Here, follow Inntravel’s trails, including those along thyme-scented slopes where peregrine falcons and Bonelli’s eagles swoop overhead. The final two nights are spent in the Moorish coastal village of Scopello, gateway to the beautiful Zingaro Nature Reserve.  Price: from £775pp based on 2 sharing, including 7 nights’ B&B, 1 picnic and return ferry Trapani to Marettimo plus transfer on day 5, luggage transported, route notes and maps, and GPS navigation. Grade 1 – 2.

The Quiet Side of the Italian Riviera 
Away from the crowds, explore the Ligurian Riviera’s alluring villages and stunning coastline from the stylish coastal village of Moneglia, using the inexpensive local rail network.  Conveniently set between the Cinque Terre and Portofino Bay (2022 will mark 25 years since the Cinque Terre gained UNESCO status), walkers use the excellent rail links to access some of Italy’s finest and most flexible coastal walking.  Set in the hills just behind the seafront, stay in the friendly, family-run boutique hotel, Villa Edera, with a gourmet restaurant, a pool and a lift conveniently situated in the hotel garden which takes guests directly down to the railway station. Price: from £860pp based on 2 sharing, including 7 nights’ B&B, wine tasting session with tapas, route notes and maps, and GPS navigation. Grade 1 – 2, and 2.

Click here for further information on Inntravel’s walking holiday guide for new walkers visit
    
For more information on Inntravel generally, please visit www.inntravel.co.uk    

Travel Tuesday — Explore Norway's Senja Island From Air, Land and Sea

Senja by Heart - Kjopmannsoya_Pan

Frank-Andreassen_www.nordnorge.com.jpg

Mefjord Brygge - fishing piers.jpg

Now this one dropped into my inbox the other day and it sounds amazing. I get sent a lot of media releases from travel companies but I only share trips that I'd love to take myself.

A new autumn adventure has launched in northern Norway, providing an exclusive opportunity to experience the Arctic from three perspectives — from the air in a private helicopter, on land while hiking and e-biking across dramatic coastal mountaintops, and on the water and under water to meet Arctic aquatic life.

The five-day Senja Autumn Adventure has been created by specialist travel company Off the Map Travel for an exclusive holiday of relaxation and unusual experiences including snorkeling by the fjords.

Senja is Norway’s second largest island and a revelation to travelers to the Arctic. The itinerary has been specially curated for the autumn temperate weather to combine a variety of activities and excursions to showcase Senja in multiple ways. And maybe offer a glimpse of the Northern Lights if you're truly lucky. 

A mountainous island blessed with dramatic topography, Senja is Norway’s jewel when it comes to views, especially in autumn when it presents a palette of dark browns and greens from the mountains and sparkling turquoise from the sea.

The program begins in Trømso, dubbed “the Paris of the North” for its fashion, food and culture. Then the true adventure begins with a helicopter ride to Senja traveling above the island’s mountains and plateaus before landing in the small fishing village of Mefjordvaer on the Northwest coast.

“Senja is one of those unknown areas of the world, an unspoiled part of Norway, bursting with color and dramatic scenery,” comments Jonny Cooper, founder of Off the Map Travel. “This is a special chance to experience Senja from multiple sensory angles. Our program is designed to consider every traveler’s wish and maybe even provide a glimpse of early Northern Lights.” 

All meals are included with North Norwegian favorites including reindeer shank and Skreigrunn cod. Accommodations are at Mefjord Brygge, a resort village with hotel rooms, apartments and cabins, a location favored by nature lovers, adventure seekers, photographers and hikers.

Guests have access to a wellness area with sauna, outdoor hot tub and solarium, an idyllic area for relaxing and soaking up the 360 degree views. A private pier overlooks a fjord that attracts local wildlife and has even more views of the rugged mountains on every side.

Water-based activities include a private boat trip to explore the island and search out seals playing beneath the surf, a visit to view salmon shoals, and an Off the Map Travel “exclusive experience” -- snorkeling in some of Senja’s crystal clear bays and inlets with the opportunity to explore Røst Reef, a cold-water coral reef and home to many distinctive species of fish.

As well as being a wild fauna and flora sanctuary, Senja is a paradise for bird watchers with a mix of marine birds, sea eagles, falcons and golden eagles.

Guests will also enjoy an e-bike tour through the mountains, accessing jaw-dropping viewpoints from the cliff edge and taking in the changing shades of the water along the coast before arriving at a secluded beach for a private-dining, chef-created experience of locally sourced seafood and ingredients.

The five-day, four-night Senja Autumn Adventure itinerary is priced from £5499 per person ($7149 USD at the time writing), based on double occupancy, including all activities, all meals, private chef for the secluded beach meal only, transfers, one night’s hotel accommodation in Trømso and three nights’ accommodation in Senja.

Flights are additional.

Itinerary Detail

Day 1: Arrive in Trømso for the first night and spend the evening exploring the city. Take a short walk to the stunning viewpoints looking down over the city and maybe watch the sun before dinner at one of the many amazing restaurants on offer. Depending when you arrive, there may be the option of an excursion or boat trip, too.

Day 2: After checking out, a short transfer to the airport will take you to your helicopter to take you across the stunning landscape to Senja. If helicopters aren’t your thing, your Adventure Artist can arrange alternative transport. In Senja, relax and settle into your accommodation before setting out on foot to explore Mefjordvaer, a small fishing village. Enjoy a leisurely dinner with beautiful views.

Day 3: After breakfast, gear up for a day trip on your own private boat to explore this beautiful island from the ocean. You’ll have your own crew and the option to head out in the morning or evening for three hours. Then it’s time to relax and enjoy your surroundings and another delicious dinner.

Day 4: For your final day in Senja, there is a special day planned for you with an activity exclusive to Off the Map Travel. You will be picked up by private boat transfer after breakfast and taken to Torsken, a rugged area on the west coast of Senja. Upon arrival you will experience an ‘underwater fjord tour’ in various bays and water inlets, a snorkeling experience giving you the opportunity to explore Senja’s crystal-clear waters. You will see a variety of sea anemones and flowers, and explore shallow coral reefs that are home to fish and starfish. You can then head up river to see salmon and visit a larger bay where you may even see seals playing beneath the surf. You are likely to see sea eagles too. Once finished, you can enjoy lunch before setting out on a beautiful e-bike tour through the fjords to a secluded beach for a private dinner prepared by your own, personal chef.

Day 5: After breakfast, transfer to Trømso via air, land or sea, taking in the beautiful landscape as you go. If you’re not ready for the adventure to end, speak to one of the team to see how they can tailor the trip for you.

OFF THE MAP TRAVEL

 The team at Off the Map Travel works with experiences and destinations that allow people to explore hidden wonders of our planet. Specializing in Soft Adventure OTMT creates tailor-made holiday itineraries offering authentic experiences not offered by many larger travel companies.  For more information on Off the Map Travel itineraries visit www.offthemap.travel; call 1-646-701-0041; email info@offthemap.travel  or join in the conversation on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, YouTube or Pinterest

 

Kick Off Summer in Wine Country With Tickets to the Fabulous Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience, May 20th - 22nd, 2021

Images: Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience

Ready to blow away the cobwebs on your stylish sunhat and wine-tasting sneakers? Tickets are on sale now for the fantastic Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience, an impressive and super exclusive first-time event set in our region for May 20th-22nd, 2022 featuring top wineries and restaurants such as The Matheson and Single Thread.

This special wine weekend includes all sorts of swish parties, panel discussions, fun barbecues, festive lunches and dinners, a country music concert with The Band Perry, chef demonstrations and an awesome grand tasting.

Local chefs who are participating include Kyle Connaughton of Single Thread, Duskie Estes of Farm to Pantry, Douglas Keane of Healdsburg Bar & Grill, Traci des Jardins of Public House in San Francisco, Casey Thompson of Folktable in Sonoma, and Dustin Valette of The Matheson and Valette. 

Among the event’s many guest chefs will be Food Network star Maneet Chauhan, Food & Wine culinary director-at-large Justin Chapple, Los Angeles chef/owner Ray Garcia and “Top Chef” winner Stephanie Izard.

General admission is $200, which includes an extensive Vinters Plaza Grand Tasting and the Sips and Sliders event at the Healdsburg Bar & Grill on May 21, with other add-on options.

Sonoma County locals might like to volunteer the event. This is a great way to get involved and get to know your favorite regional wine folk. Click here if you are interested in volunteering. 

If you fancy going all-out then The VIP package is $2,500 and includes the kickoff lunch and welcome celebration on May 20th, four events on May 21st and a farewell lunch on May 22nd, with other add-on options.

Ultra-VIP tickets are $3,700 and include the welcome celebration on May 20th, seven events on May 21st and a farewell event on May 22nd, including exclusives for Ultra-VIP ticket holders only.

You also can buy tickets for individual events (a la carte) which is a great way to go if you're not needing all the bells and whistles bit would like a taste of the action.  

Events will be held at The Matheson, Montage Healdsburg and The Madrona along with wineries including Kendall-Jackson Estate and Gardens, Jordan Winery Estate, Rodney Strong Vineyards, Dutton Ranch and Stonestreet Mountain.

For more information: www.healdsburgwineandfood.com

Visiting London? Take a Taste Tour of Royal Botanical Gardens Kew

It had been a long time coming for me to discover the world of science and beauty behind the royal botanical collections at Kew Gardens in person. Somehow I had never found the time in my hectic schedule when over in the UK visiting family to squeeze in a day amongst the 50,000 living plants across this most gracious and celebrated UNESCO World Heritage site. 

Thankfully, I've managed to put that right with a much-anticipated and thoroughly enjoyed Saturday visit this March 2022 after a trip to spend time with my parents on the rural Lincolnshire/Cambridgeshire border.

My sister, Lindsey (pictured below in her cheerful yellow coat) lives in Twickenham, not far from the gardens and though she typically has a weekend sporting schedule with her competitive athlete teen and tween that makes me want to lay down and sleep after early bird meets, we miraculously managed to carve out almost a full day together for Kew. 

If I lived in the London area I would definitely be an annual member as there's so much to see and do. Every visit would be tailored around a different exhibition, workshop, tour or seasonal activity. And a visit also depends on who you have with you that day. We met up with a lovely teacher colleague of Lindsey's and her super four-year-old daughter. It was fun to see Kew for the first time though the eyes of an exuberant and enthusiastic, nature-loving child. 

And she didn't mind that we spent the last hour of our visit to Kew sipping a botanical-infused G&T each while she dived into the foam of a babychino (simply warm milk with cinnamon or cocoa powder, without coffee!).

In fact there are a variety of cafes and restaurants within the gardens, making a visit a full-day affair. Seasonal specialties and food foraged from the gardens abound.   

Gardens at Kew date back to the early 18th century, as a royal palace to today's globally renowned scientific institution for plant and fungal research. Click here for the history of Kew.

Pavilion Bar and Grill

Enjoy our al fresco dining surrounded by vines with views of the Pagoda and Temperate House. Enjoy our plant-based or beef patty burger, seasonal salads and cake from the kitchen.

OPENING TIMES

Monday to Friday: 11am to 5pm (last orders 3.45pm)

Weekends and Half Term: 10am to 5pm (last orders 3.45pm)

Orangery

Your favourite spot to eat is open for indoor and outdoor dining, with outdoor pop-up stalls available too. Why not warm yourself with one of our amazing toasties, burgers or new Lebanese Barbeque served on the terrace.

OPENING TIMES

Daily, 10am to 5pm*

Breakfast: 10am to 11am

Hot food: 11.30am to 3.30pm

*Please note, the Orangery will close early at 4pm on 17 and 26 March 2022.

The Orangery example menu (PDF)

Afternoon Tea at 34 pounds a person is a far better deal than you'll find at most fancy tea spots and the Botanical Brasserie at Kew is gorgeous, genteel and view-worthy. If tea's not your thing, breakfast, lunch and cocktails are on the menu also. 

We stopped in at the Botanical Brasserie for our late afternoon cocktail, a gin and tonic made with a deliciously fragrant, botanical gin crafted in partnership with The East London Liquor Co.  

The key botanicals in the gin come directly from the Gardens, including Douglas Fir which has a wonderful piney flavor. With the addition of lavender and sweet orange, courtesy of our pollinator friends who are celebrated on the vibrant packaging, the gin is celebrated as a true flavor of Kew and its values.

The Botanical Brasserie

Enjoy delicious afternoon tea, breakfast and lunch dishes in our restaurant.

OPENING TIMES

Daily, 10am to 5pm

Breakfast: 10am to 11.15am

Lunch: 12pm to 3pm

Afternoon tea: 2.30pm to 5pm

Book a table at the Botanical BrasserieThe Botanical Brasserie example menu (PDF)

Victoria Plaza Café

Pick up the perfect picnic grub, sausage rolls and barista coffee to take away or eat -in.

OPENING TIMES

Daily, 10am to 5.45pm

NEW Family Kitchen & Shop

With stone-baked pizza, a salad bar and ice cream servery, our new multi-sensory Family Kitchen & Shop is the perfect pitstop for a family day out; conveniently located right next to the Children's Garden.

OPENING TIMES

Daily, 10am to 5pm

Hot food: 11.30am to 3.30pm

Pizza counter: 11.30am to 4pm

I picked up a few of these delicious, hand-made chocolate infused with natural juniper and lime flavoring and especially made for Kew to bring home. 

The Kew shop is packed full of home & garden gifts and goodies. A delicious food and drink range includes handcrafted chocolate, bespoke botanical gins, and luxurious fruit preserves. Click here to treat yourself or find the perfect gift for someone who loves the finer things in life. 

USA & Canada: Delivery up to 14 working days from dispatch. Local customs duty or taxes may apply. 

If You Go:

Best to book a time slot. Click here for tickets. 

By train

Kew Bridge station is 800m from Elizabeth Gate, via Kew Bridge. South West Trains run services from Waterloo, via Vauxhall and Clapham Junction. There is no level access at Kew Bridge.

Richmond station has lift and level access. Take 65 bus (in the direction of Ealing Broadway) to Lion or Victoria Gate.

By tube

Kew Gardens station is 500m from Victoria Gate. It is in Zone 3 and is served by the District Line (Richmond branch) and London Overground. It takes about 26 minutes to get there from central London. 

There is no level access from the westbound platform. It is possible to continue one stop to Richmond and catch a tube back to use the eastbound platform which does have level access.

By bus

Route 65 stops close to Lion Gate, Elizabeth Gate and Victoria Gate.

Route 110 stops near Kew Gardens station and Elizabeth Gate. 

Routes 237 and 267 stop at Kew Bridge station.

 

Travel Tuesday — Palm Springs for Beginners

It was embarrassing to admit to have never visited Palm Springs in the 32 years I've lived in California. No excuses other than life has been generally very busy and has taken me in every direction other than the desert. Until this February. I finally made my first visit. And it won't be my last. 

Let's just say I was fairly well smitten. 

The dry heat (90 degrees mid Feb), the mountains, the friendly, casual atmosphere and relaxed pace coupled with the movie-set architecture and history made for the most pleasing few days. I mean, what's not to like?

Palm Springs has the largest concentration of modern residential architecture in the world, showcased annually in its February Modernism Week Celebration. I visited the week before, which was probably good timing, crowd-wise, though I wish I'd had the chance to tour inside some of the most iconic homes and estates.

We stayed at the Kimpton Rowan in the heart of revitalized downtown Palm Springs and we were delighted to take advantage of a complimentary cruiser bike in the morning hours over a couple of days to cycle through many of the most interesting neighborhoods. 

There are just under 50,000 permanent residents of Palm Springs, which makes it sound smaller than it is given the amount of visitors in the more temperate months. The cool season lasts for 3.2 months, from late November to late February, with an average daily high temperature below 75°F. Though it was in the 90s during our February stay this year. The coldest month of the year in Palm Springs is December, with an average low of 46°F and high of 69°F. From early June to October, summers are sweltering, arid, and mostly clear with temperatures reaching 113 F. Ninety degrees is enough for me. 

It’s typical for someone in Palm Springs to give you the following directions: “Keep going on Gene Autry, turn left on Dinah Shore and take a right on Bob Hope.” The desert has a preponderance of street names honoring various celebrities who have made the desert home.  

Palm Spring is home to the Cahuilla people, who speak Ivilyuat, a dialect of the Uto-Aztecan language family. It's easy in places to see the oasis that was their's and their's only and completely unspoiled for some 2,000 years.

We took an evening hike on the rocky Museum Trail into the mountains where I took this shot and I tried to picture the area as it would have been for all those thousands of years. Desert Hot Springs is home to one of the greatest mineral water aquifers in the world. The water is naturally heated to temperatures as high as 180 degrees.

Not surprisingly, The Cahuilla name for Palm Springs was Se-Khi (boiling water).

Image - Walter Ufer — A Yearling 1929 Palm Springs Art Museum

Spanish explorers passed through from the 1770s and called the Palm Springs area, La Palma de la Mano de Dios (The Palm of God’s Hand).

The United States government established the Agua Caliente Reservation over 31,128 acres in a checkerboard format of alternating sections of 640 acres in 1876. These alternating non-reservation sections were granted to the Southern Pacific Railroad as an incentive to bring rail lines through the Sonoran desert.

This checkerboard format includes modern downtown Palm Springs and as a consequence of this geography, the Agua Caliente is reputedly now one of the wealthiest tribes in the country. In fact, the land beneath many of the homes or condos in Palm Springs is subsequently leased.

Fortunately, back in 1959, The Agua Caliente secured the right for its members to lease land for 99 years at a time.

Image —George Brandriff Palm Springs Indian Reservation 1920 — Palm Springs Art Museum 

I stopped in at the original home of the family considered to be the first non-native people to settle the area — the McCallum Adobe  a small museum with friendly staff on downtown Palm Canyon Drive. John Guthrie McCallum, son of an industrious Scottish farmer, a 57-year-old San Francisco editor, pioneer lawyer and Indian agent to the Mission Indians, was led to the hot springs that gushed from the desert.

According to Palm Springs Life early history article: "Unlike other pioneers of the early West, McCallum's move to the desert was not motivated by a burning quest for the frontier, or by a lust for gold. . . he was motivated to move to the desert by the practical demands of fatherhood. McCallum thought that the climate would heal his tubercular son Johnny, and with that thought he sowed the seed for Palm Springs' future as a health spa".

With high hopes he moved to the area with his entire family: wife Emily, sons Harry, Wallace and Johnny and daughters May and Pearl.

"He came not as a conquering white as so many others had come to Indian Territory; he came as a friend of the Indians after having quit his commission as Indian agent in San Bernardino".

"Historically, one cannot separate the desert from the Indians or the Indians from the desert," his daughter Pearl wrote. "And my father, a friendly man, loved both … The Indians trusted him for he knew them intimately, their traits and their problems … Many say that our Indians were never more happy and healthy than under my father's administration …"

Still, In a 1990 census there were only 35 people in Palm Springs who could still speak the language and tribal enrollment as of 2010 was 410 people. The Smallpox epidemic of 1862 tragically felled many of the region's first people who had been exposed to the disease by non-natives passing through via a stagecoach station on the early overland trail.

By the early 1900s Palm Springs had begun to establish itself as the destination it is today. Like the McCallums, many of its early residents were drawn to a climate that was beneficial to their health, particularly if  infected with tuberculosis. In the 1930s, Palm Springs was the desert getaway for Hollywood stars (almost a couple decades  prior to Las Vegas establishing itself as a destination).

Palm Springs is located just 107 miles from Los Angeles and its celebrity gossip columnists of the 1930s. This beautiful desert sanctuary became a safe haven for stars to live their private lives out of the glare of the public eye. Reporters working for pennies were typically reimbursed for travel expenses, but super conveniently for the stars who could afford a second home, only up to 100 miles. 

Similarly, Old Hollywood movie studios implemented a two-hour rule, which stated that actors must remain within two hours of the studio.

And although Palm Springs is lauded  as the Golf Capital of the World, it was the Palm Springs Racquet Club and the Palm Springs Tennis Club  that first put it on the sporting map in 1934. Film Actors Ralph Bellamy and Charlie Farrell purchased a large parcel of land and developed the Palm Springs Racquet Club, inviting their fellow Hollywood luminaries of the time such as Bing Crosby, Jimmy Durante, Spencer Tracy, John Wayne, Errol Flynn, Robert Wagner, Frank Sinatra, Mary Pickford, Douglas Fairbanks and Bob Hope to join them. 

Today, their names and hundreds of other celebrities who arrived in the decades to follow are enshrined on the Palm Springs Walk of Stars.

Long before the advent of Hollywood stars came flocking to the area, in the hot summer months when the temperatures soar, the early Cahuilla people trekked to a considerably higher elevation of some 2,700 feet at the Chino Canyon's Valley Floor. They also spent summers in the other canyons at the south end of Palm Springs, Tahquitz, Andreas, Murray and Palm Canyons. 

Today it is possible to traverse the full 8,500 feet above sea water at the far cooler top of Chino Canyon, which is far more easily accessible by the Palm Springs Aerial TRAM.

The tram journey up with a group of friends was exciting. It took us from the floor of the Coachella Valley all the way up to San Jacinto Peak in under ten minutes. Unfortunately our plan for a good hike at the top was somewhat thwarted by the amount of snow and ice on the trails. Sneakers did not cut it. Although we tried our best to navigate a route, when we spotted families sledding, we figured out that it was best to save a long trek for a less slippery season. 

If you go, do click here to book ahead and pre-book the restaurant up top, too. 

I prefer cultural pursuits to golf and so the Palm Springs Art Museum and its exquisite collection was one of my must-visits on this first trip. I could see it from our bedroom window.

Marilyn's Morning Shower — Photo Frances Rivetti 

Where to eat? Restaurants in the Palm Springs area have it down with regards to open air seating in the warm desert air. We didn't go too crazy with big-shot meals on this trip, taking in the general scene and scoping out hot spots for future visits instead. Reservations are a good idea and for the popular places that don't take them, expect a long line. 

However, we did enjoy a lovely lunch at French-style Farm and another at Sherman's Deli. 

If you're going, here's a good selection of top spots to check out. 

And don't forget the famous Date Shakes! The Coachella Valley produces more fresh dates than anywhere else in the United States. I'm not a fan of anything too sweet but I do like a fresh fig on occasion and enjoyed a delicious bacon wrapped date at the event we went on to after our first few days in town. Farmers Markets are filled with fruit from the valley and at great prices too. 

My main question (as a non-golfer) upon learning there are 124 irrigated golf courses in the part of the Coachella Valley that is often referred to as the Palm Springs area, east of Los Angeles, many with lakes, in an otherwise parched landscape was: how?

Picture the greatest concentration of golf courses in the world, carpeting the desert in a sea of green, during an ongoing drought. 

The Coachella Valley has less than one percent of Southern California's population, yet it has approximately 28 percent of its golf courses. The golf industry statewide uses less than one percent of the water, yet in the Coachella Valley, courses use 24 percent of the area water consumption.

"The drought has almost no impact on the Coachella Valley," According to Craig Kessler, director of governmental affairs for the Southern California Golf Association, in an interview with Golf Digest. "Short term, unlike other places in California, there's a negligible impact," Kessler said. "However, there is a long-range concern."

My friend and former editor at the Petaluma Argus Courier, Chris Samson grew up in Palm Springs. His dad, Herbert Samson, a native of Canada, emigrated to Palm Springs in 1927 and lived there until he passed, in 1974. He served as president of the Desert Water Agency amongst other key community roles. Chris shared this article with family members who believe their father would have disagreed with Kessler's statement. The formerly massive underground aquifers, won't last forever.  

However, courses are working closely with the Coachella Valley Water District on ways to conserve, its communications director Heather Engel said, in the same article, including a goal of a 10 percent reduction in water use by 2020. It's good to hear that the golf industry is being pro-active, with native areas replacing irrigated rough on some courses. "Instead of 140 irrigated acres, wall-to-wall green, you'll start to see a little more of the desert look for the golf courses," Kessler said. "I think you're going to see that creep into the courses."

"As a whole, the golf industry is very conscientious about water use in Coachella Valley," she said. And, if golf goes away, so does most of the economy in the area. 

There are lots of super fun and stylish hotels to stay at in Palm Springs. This selection Time Out has picked to highlight offer an eclectic range. I would certainly stay at the Kimpton again, but I did like the look of the Movie Colony vintage style hotels and would consider one of them for a future visit. The Uptown shopping district is a haven for mid-Century home design and boutique buys, though I don't shop much when I'm traveling with my husband. Still, the window shopping is great! 

Next time I plan on visiting Joshua Tree, taking an estate tour or two, hiking more and maybe horse riding in the region. So much to do and see. I recommend if you're a newbie visitor like me that you plan out a rough itinerary according to your group needs before setting out.

According to Realtor.com, the average home price in Jan 2022 in Palm Springs' 40 neighborhoods was $697,000 – that's a couple hundred thousand dollars less than the median home price in my home town of Petaluma currently. I can see why Palm Springs appeals for retirement plans, though if I were ever to consider that I'd have to keep a second home by the breezy coast for those summer months! 

Introducing Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience, a Three Day Celebration in the Heart of Sonoma Wine Country, May 20, 21 and 22 2022

Montage–credit Montage Healdsburg

How ready we are for wine country events to resume! I'm very excited about the upcoming Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience  — a three-day celebration featuring the best of Sonoma County and world-renowned food and wines. I'll be posting more about this event in coming weeks, but here's an overview for starters. I recommend booking early and there's lots of choices of what to do and when and enticing add-on options. 

This fantastic festival will showcase our region’s makers – farmers, growers, winemakers and chefs – alongside globally recognized wines from the greatest wine regions of the world.

The goal of this innovative new festival in the heart of wine country is to highlight the vibrant culinary diversity, sustainable farming practices and deep connection to the agriculture of Sonoma as it relates to the rest of the world.

What's not to love? Grab your chance to meet, eat/drink with and learn from a blend of super-talented celebrity, Michelin-starred and James Beard award- winning chefs, world-renowned wine experts, wine makers and grape growers all in one place. 

With its amazing restaurants, tasting rooms, art galleries and specialty shops, the Sonoma County city of Healdsburg is experiencing a timely Renaissance. It's scenic vineyards, Russian River region locale, stunning vistas and a diverse blend of award-winning varietals are sure to satisfy everyone’s palate.

Packed with options, activities and unique locations, the festival schedule offers a lineup suited for everyone’s tastes and pocketbook. Customize your weekend experience with friends, family or simply as a treat to yourself and a pal or loved one.

Options vary based on purchased ticket package. A substantial donation from  consumer ticket sales and sponsorships will go to local organizations that are making a meaningful difference in the lives of farmers and their families through Sonoma County Grape Growers Association and the launch of the HW&FE Scholarship Fund—to benefit economically challenged students looking to pursue a career in farming and/or agriculture.  

It's great to hear that The Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience will fully embrace an environmentally conscious and sustainability focused programming schedule and event footprint.  The event's premier sponsors are driving this conversation forward through regenerative farming practices and renewable energy initiatives that reduce the impact on the planet.

Event chefs, wine experts, seminar leaders and local business partners come from a wide variety of cultural and geographic backgrounds. Together, they're planning an event like no other—with culinary diversity, innovation, and experimentation at the forefront.

Click here for full event schedule. 

And click here for ticket packages.

 

 

 

 

February in Marrakech? Check Out Fabulous El Fenn

Travel is on our minds as we near the end of a long January. International travel is reopening for the more intrepid and with sensible precautions, friends and family are increasingly on the move. This year I'll be featuring lots of travel destinations that appeal to me as well as any I am able to experience in person. One of the most talked-about destinations of late is Morocco. I've yet to explore this North African gem but one day I hope to do so and top of my to-do list would be a home-base stay in one of its most stunning boutique hotels.

Following the Moroccan government’s announcement this week that the country will reopen its borders to international visitors on Monday February 7, maybe now is the time for you book that long-awaited foray to exotic Marrakech.

How about a stay at El Fenn, one of the most dazzling of Marrakech’s boutique hotels? With its trademark blend of cool and a distinct feeling of home-away-from-home, El Fenn offers the perfect base from which to explore the city’s sights or to hide away, relaxing in its bounteous cosy nooks and renowned hospitality.

What’s more, February is a great time to visit with highs of 68ºF by day - perfect for stocking up on Vitamin D and treats from the souks.
 
According to El Fenn co-partner Madeline Weinrib: “After a testing time for all in hospitality in Morocco, we are so thrilled to be welcoming our North American guests back to enjoy the delights of El Fenn. February is a fabulous month to visit with warm temperatures by day and cosy evenings next to the fire by night, and of course El Fenn is looking more gorgeous and as vibrant as ever. I’m looking forward to getting back out there to immerse myself in the food, the art and the shopping that I’ve so missed, and of course staying again in my home-from-home.”
 
A hidden gem, set in the heart of Marrakech’s medina, El Fenn boasts photogenic vistas of colonnaded balconies with billowing drapes, sun-dappled courtyards, lantern-lit trails and a family of friendly tortoises, as well as a labyrinth of stunning suites in a striking color palette, one of the hotel’s defining features.

Facilities abound in the 12 traditional courtyard houses the hotel connects, with an array of inviting pools, a stylish boutique, an indulgent spa with hammam, two bars and a restaurant. However, it is El Fenn’s vast roof terrace that really sets it apart. With its panoramic views of the Marrakech cityscape and the Atlas Mountains beyond, it is the place for sunset cocktails, a romantic meal under twinkling lights or for lounging on the enormous day beds and soaking up the chilled vibes high above the bustling medina.

El Fenn was recently recognized as one of the top hotels in Northern Africa in the Condé Nast Traveler 2021 Readers’ Choice Awards, and was selected as one of the Best Hotels in Africa in Fodor’s Finest Hotel Awards 2022.

Before travel, guests should check the latest entry requirements with their airline and relevant government website.

 
Rates
A double room at El Fenn (el-fenn.com  Tel 00212 524 44 1210), including breakfast and afternoon tea, costs from $450 per night.
 
Or opt for a 2-night package - price from US$800 (or US $400pp based on 2 sharing), including 2 nights’ B&B accommodation, welcome drinks, afternoon tea, an El Fenn Signature lunch for 2, a 40-minute massage or Hammam for 2, and airport transfers. Valid for bookings from 7-28 Feb 2022.