Southern Sonoma Country Life

A Warm Sonoma County Welcome on Opening Day of International Festival del Sole

Opening evening program of the inaugural, internationally aclaimed Festival del Sole in its new Sonoma County location brought the audience to its feet in the lauded surrounds of the Green Music Center at Sonoma State, Thursday, August 1st, 2024.

The festival concept was born in Italy in the 1990s, thanks to the brilliant collaboration of global arts entrepreneur and pianist Barrett Wissman and his celebrated wife, Nina Kotova, one of the world's most highly recognized and inspirational cellists. The couple and their son spend their time between homes in Rome and Montana. Barrett Wissman is the Executive and Artistic director of the Taormina Film Festival amongst his long list of past and present biographical accolades. 

It has been 21 years since the Festival del Sole inaugurated in the scenic Tuscan city of Cortona, incorporating a dizzying array of events over the past two plus decades including concerts, fine art exhibitions, wine tastings, literary and culinary gatherings, attracting a line up of many of the world's greatest musicians, artists, actors, winemakers, chefs and personalities. 

What better location to reprise this wonderful festival than Sonoma County, going forward?

And if the first day and evening's program is anything to go by, the Festival del Sole is here to stay, having found its ideal setting. 

Pictured above, cellist Nina Kotova and Steinway artist pianist Olga Kern lit up the stage with complex, moving and sensational classical solo and chamber music performances, interspersed with violin and cello, violin and piano and and violin solos by violinist Viktoria Mullova. 

The evening was mesmerizing from start to finish with selections from Johann Sebastian Bach, Claude Debussy, Cesar Franck, Bela Bartok, Franz Liszt and Johannes Brahms — a breathtaking and terrific introduction to a four day cultural extravaganza.  

Concert goers may book ahead online through the Festival website or purchase in person at the Green Music Center box office on the campus of Sonoma State. 

There are wine tastings and lunches, dinners and a sumptuous Gala Dinner at historic Buena Vista Winery in Sonoma in support of Sunday's The Way of the Rain non-profit founded by Sibylle Szaggars Redford, dedicated to the mission of developing, producing and performing educational and artistic performances to promote public awareness and support for protection of the earth. 

Sunday evening's Green Center 6pm screening of Szaggars Redford’s multidisciplinary staged music, art and film performance of The Way of the Rain at the Dallas Texas Morton H. Meyerson Symphony Hall, with a spoken word narration by her husband, Robert Redford, tells the artistic story about the formation of the Universe, the evolution of all galaxies and the eventual birth of the unique and beautiful Planet Earth with all its elements. Founder, President and Artistic Director of The Way of the Rain Sibylle Szaggars Redford and invited guest Robert Redford will be in attendance for this special event.  

Co-Founder and Managing Partner of Sonoma's Three Sticks Wines Prema Kerollis (center) welcomed artists, musicians, wine writers and guests to the festival's exquisite, inaugural lunch and wine tasting at the winery's gorgeous downtown Sonoma tasting room and garden, Thursday. 

Three Sticks Wines is hidden in plain site, a few steps off the plaza in the heart of downtown. It's truly a gem of a tasting room. I've visited many throughout Sonoma, Marin and Mendocino counties in a reporting capacity over the past couple of decades and am delighted to come across one that satisfies the soul in every sense. I prefer an unpretentious winery, personally and Three Sticks fits the bill, though all the more gloriously in that location, style and decor, hospitality is second to none and the wines — well, this is a winery that produces every grape and drop of wine in its extraordinary Pinot, Chardonnay and Rose offerings. 

If you have yet to discover Three Sticks Wine, make a date to explore. What a delight from ringing the vintage doorvbell to 1842 Vallejo Casteñada Adobe, the winery's discreet hospitality home at 143 West Spain Street, Sonoma, to the joy of table fellowship in most delicious, seasonal lunch and summery pairings. A true taste of place in each glass. Rooted deeply in the essence of California, Three Sticks Adobe is a testament to the region's rich heritage. 

Lunch of Seared Maine Scallops, Roasted King Salmon and Strawberry Blueberry Crisp was prepared by Executive Chef Armando Navarro of nearby El Dorado Kitchen. 

The renowned Ken Fulk designed the indoor and outdoors of Three Sticks hospitality center and showcases his signature touch, fusing timeless elegance with contemporary allure. The Adobe was built just before the Gold Rush by Salvador Vallejo, brother to General Mariano Vallejo and has been lovingly restored as a Sonoma landmark. Widely ecognized for producing some of the best pinot noir and chardonnay in California from exceptional estate vineyards, Three Sticks offers a variety of curated experiences by reservation.

Wine and Culinary Curation partner in the festival is the expert team at Vinous, one of the world's most influential wine publications, founded by Antonio Galloni. 

I'm looking forward to attending more of the exciting program for 2024. It's not too late to attend if you're just finding out about it. If not, I'll be sure to share info ahead of the 2025 Festival. 

 

 

Revisiting the Past — Return to Ely — England's Second Smallest City

Am I My Brother's Keeper (runs through September 1st, 2024) — An extraordinary exhibit of 28 polychrome figures by sculptor Sean Henry prompted a visit to The Ship of the Fens,  Ely Cathedral this summer during my recent family trip back to the home country. 

Don't be confused by me striking my own pose whilst back in the heart of the Fenlands, about 14 miles north east of Cambridge and 80 miles north of London, where I started my journalism career. It was in Ely where I memorably covered the arrival of the late Queen Elizabeth II arriving at the train station for the annual Maundy Monday service at the cathedral in the late 80s. I've so many vivid memories of my time in the Ely area rambling around the backroads in the Ely Standard Mini, reporter's notebook on the passenger seat on the hunt for stories.

Oldest son, Rocco and my husband, Timo, took the time to recreate a favorite photo of me standing right there almost thirty years ago, during a rare winter visit. This time, though it was in June, wasn't the most summery of English days, but the weather made for ideal exhibition going on hallowed ground. 

 

Ely is the second smallest city in England, after the city of Wells in Somerset. A small town was established around the monastery and Cathedral which dominated the Isle of Ely for centuries. Ely was actually an island until 400 years ago, when work to drain the Fens (freshwater marshes) began, creating the fertile farmland the Fens are known for today. The cathedral has welcomed visitors and pilgrims for over 1300 years. Gracing a vibrant community today (population 19,200), Ely Cathedral provides a glimpse into centuries of English heritage alongside incredibly beautiful art and architecture.

The 14th century Octagon tower at Ely and its unique wooden lantern is considered one of the wonders of the medieval world. The cathedral took over 300 years to be built. Its graceful Norman nave is among the longest in England, with a remarkable 19th century painted ceiling.

According to Historic UK: "Still susceptible to flooding today, it was these watery surrounds that gave Ely its original name the ‘Isle of Eels’, a translation of the Anglo Saxon word ‘Eilig’. It was an Anglo Saxon princess, Saint Ethelreda, who founded the first Christian community on the islands’ hill top site in 673 A.D. for both monks and nuns. Like her father Anna, the king of East Anglia, Ethelfreda had become an enthusiastic supporter of the new religion that was fast spreading through the country."

The cathedral with its many features, including the 14th century Lady Chapel and Octagon Tower, was used as a film set for the  Elizabethan epics ‘The Golden Age’ and ‘The Other Boleyn Girl’ and more recently, Bradley Cooper, as Leonard Bernstein, conducting Mahler's Second Symphony in Maestro. 

Arguably the most famous resident of Ely was The Lord Protector, the uncrowned King of Great Britain and Ireland, Oliver Cromwell. Cromwell inherited a large estate in the area from his uncle Sir Thomas Steward in 1636, going on to be the local tax collector, a man of wealth and great standing in the community. It was he who was responsible for shutting the great doors of the cathedral for around a decade. 

If you're looking for a less crowded experience after visiting Cambridge, Ely is easily accessible by train. Stroll up from the station to wander around ancient buildings and medieval gateways, the Cathedral Close (the largest collection of domestic monastic buildings in the country) and Oliver Cromwell’s House, open  year-round with exhibitions, period rooms and a haunted room. Tea rooms and antique shops abound. 

We walked down to the riverside for a pint and a fish lunch, followed by ice cream from an old-fashioned van. There are several good choices of pubs and restaurants down by the water and in town. The newspaper office is gone from its long time location, which was sad to see, as with so many print newspapers around the world, though it's still in existance at least.  

Though I felt nostalgic for the past and its simpler times, I was glad to see that the city and cathedral is thriving and appealing to a variety of visitors with its embrace of art and modern culture. It's a lovely place, well located given the access to public transport and I can see why I have such fond memories from that chapter of my life. 

 

Click here for more information on visiting Ely. 

 

World Class Festival del Sole Returns to Sonoma County & the Green Music Center with Multidisciplinary Inernational Music, Art and Film, Curated Lunches & Wine Tasting August 1st through 4th, 2024

International Festival del Sole returns to Northern California at The Green Music Center at Sonoma State University in partnership with arts entrepreneur and pianist Barrett Wissman, August 1–4, 2024.

This year’s event includes wine and culinary events presented by Domus Artium Reserve, including a Gala dinner and auction on Sunday, August 4^th hosted by Buena Vista Winery and Jean Charles Boisset to benefit The Way of the Rain, the non-profit founded Sibylle Szaggars Redford dedicated to the mission of developing, producing and performing educational and artistic performances to promote public awareness and support for the protection of Earth.

The gala dinner will feature Buena Vista’s wines as well as a Bordeaux wine crafted by enologist Michel Rolland especially for The Way of the Rain.  Renowned wine publication Vinous has curated a series of lunches and tastings at top wineries, including Freeman Vineyard & Winery and Three Sticks Wines. 

The three-day festival will begin on Thursday, August 1st featuring three of today’s top international instrumentalists Olga Kern, Nina Kotova, and Viktoria Mullova performing a program of solo and chamber music.  One of today’s most sought-after and versatile musicians: solo violinist and violist, conductor and chamber musician Pinchas Zukerman performs August 2 with cellist Amanda Forsyth, and pianist Michael Brown.

Acclaimed tenor Joseph Calleja takes the stage on Saturday, August 3. With a nostalgic, golden-age voice that routinely inspires comparisons to “legendary singers from earlier eras” Maltese-born Calleja’s appearances on the world’s leading opera, concert, and television stages have marked him as one of today’s most sought-after artists.

Concluding Festival del Sole on Sunday, August 4 is a screening of the film, The Way of the Rain: Hope for Earth-A Symphony for our Planet, which showcases the October 2023 live presentation of Sibylle Szaggars Redford’s multidisciplinary staged music, art and film performance at the Dallas Texas Morton H. Meyerson Symphony Hall, with a spoken word narration by Robert Redford and music composed by Tim Janis.  The Way of the Rain: Hope for Earth tells the artistic story about the formation of the Universe, the evolution of the galaxies and the eventual birth of the unique and beautiful Planet Earth with all its elements.  Scheduled to attend the screening and the gala dinner are Founder, President and Artistic Director of The Way of the Rain Sibylle Szaggars Redford and Robert Redford.

Festival creator Barrett Wissman shared, “we are delighted to return to the wine country this summer to share the artistic level, tradition and excitement the Festival del Sole became known for.” Antonio Galloni, founder and CEO of Vinous, added, “I am delighted that my team has collaborated with Barrett and the Festival del Sole to develop enriching experiences for those who share our deep passion for wine and music. Each winery lunch will feature wonderful wines, exceptional hospitality and a surprise musical performance.”

Domus Artium Reserve will donate wines and culinary experiences to the Festival Del Sole. Hospitality partner, Montage Healdsburg is located on 258 acres in the heart of California’s world-renowned Sonoma wine country.  Montage Healdsburg has generously donated rooms for major artists, participants and partners at the Festival Del Sole.

To purchase tickets to Festival del Sole visit gmc.sonoma.edu or call 707-664-4246, Tickets range from $40-$75 each.

For more information on attending the gala at Buena Vista and the wine tastings and lunches, visit the Festival Del Sole website, www.festivaldelsolearts.com.

Thursday's Performance:

Olga Kern, piano
Nina Kotova, cello
Viktoria Mullova, violin
Thurs, August 1 at 7:30 p.m.
Weill Hall
Tickets $40–$75

With a vivid onstage presence, dazzling technique, and keen musicianship, pianist Olga Kern is widely recognized as one of the great artists of her generation, captivating audiences and critics alike. She was born into a family of musicians and began studying piano at the age of five. At seventeen, she was awarded first prize at the Rachmaninoff International Piano Competition, and in 2001, she launched her U.S. career, winning a historic Gold Medal at the Van Cliburn International Piano Competition—the only woman in the last 50 years to do so.

Viktoria Mullova’s extraordinary talent captured international attention when she won first prize at the 1980 Sibelius Competition in Helsinki and the Gold Medal at the Tchaikovsky Competition in 1982 which was followed, in 1983, by her dramatic and much publicized defection to the West. She has since appeared with most of the world’s greatest orchestras and conductors and at the major international festivals. She is now known the world over as a violinist of exceptional versatility and musical integrity. Her curiosity spans the breadth of musical development from baroque and classical right up to the most contemporary influences from the world of fusion and experimental music.

Cellist Nina Kotova has been praised by Gramophone as a “strong and individual artist” and by the Los Angeles Times as “a talent to reckon with- poised, committed, graceful and spirited.” Ms. Kotova is internationally recognized as one of the outstanding instrumentalists of her generation and has performed in recitals and as a soloist with symphony orchestras across the globe throughout the UK, Europe, Asia and the US.

Friday's Performance:

Pinchas Zukerman and the Zukerman Trio
Pinchas Zukerman, violin
Michael Stephen Brown, piano
Amanda Forsyth, cello
Fri, August 2 at 7:30 p.m.
Weill Hall
Tickets $40–$75

With a career spanning five decades, Pinchas Zukerman is one of today’s most sought-after and versatile musicians: solo violinist and violist, conductor and chamber musician. He is renowned as a virtuoso, admired for the expressive lyricism of his playing, the singular beauty of his timbre and impeccable musicianship, which can be heard in his discography of over 100 albums for which he has earned two Grammy awards and 21 nominations. He was awarded the Medal of the Arts, the Isaac Stern Award for Artistic Excellence and was named the first instrumentalist mentor of the Rolex Mentor and Protégé Arts Initiative.

Canadian Juno award winning cellist Amanda Forsyth is considered among her peers and critics alike to be one of the most dynamic cellists on the concert stage today. Describing a recent performance, California’s Ventura County Star raves: “In Forsyth’s hands, it was sheer magic.” She has achieved an international reputation as a premiere soloist and chamber musician and previously enthralled audiences as the principal cellist of both The Calgary Philharmonic and Canada’s National Arts Centre Orchestras. Her intense richness of tone, exceptional musicality and passion are reminiscent of cellists of a former age. She captivates audiences with every phrase.

Michael Stephen Brown has been described as “one of the leading figures in the current renaissance of performer-composers” (New York Times). Winner of a 2018 Emerging Artist Award from Lincoln Center and a 2015 Avery Fisher Career Grant, he is an artist of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center and an alum of CMS’s Bowers Program. He makes regular appearances with orchestras such as the National Philharmonic, the Seattle, Grand Rapids, North Carolina, and Albany symphonies, and was selected by pianist András Schiff to perform an international solo recital tour, making debuts in Zurich’s Tonhalle and New York’s 92nd Street Y.

Saturday's Performance: 

Joseph Calleja
Tenor, in Recital
Sat, August 3 at 7:30 p.m.
Weill Hall
Tickets $45–$70

Joseph Calleja is one of the most acclaimed tenors of his generation, renowned for his golden-age timbre coupled with an excitingly modern delivery. Born on January 22, 1978, in Attard, Malta, Calleja began showing interest in music at an early age and was inspired by the recordings of legendary tenors like Mario Lanza and Giuseppe Di Stefano.

After winning the Caruso Competition in Milan in 1998 and later receiving a prize in the Plácido Domingo Operalia International Opera Competition, Calleja’s international career skyrocketed. He made his professional debut as Macduff in Verdi’s Macbeth at the Astra Theatre in Malta and has since graced the world’s leading opera stages, including the Metropolitan Opera in New York, the Royal Opera House in London, and the Vienna State Opera.

Known for his roles in operas by Puccini and Verdi, including the titular role in Faust and as Alfredo in La Traviata, Calleja brings an emotive style and impeccable technique to each performance. His extensive discography includes critically acclaimed recordings of complete operas as well as several solo albums that highlight his broad vocal range and expressive nuance.

Beyond the stage, Joseph is a cultural ambassador for Malta, has been awarded the Medal for Service to the Republic, and is passionately involved in charitable works, including his own foundation aimed at supporting Maltese artistic talents. His contributions to music and culture have also earned him honorary doctorates from the University of Malta and the Open University of Malta.

As a dedicated performer with an undying passion for opera, Joseph Calleja continues to enchant audiences worldwide with his lyrical voice and charismatic stage presence.

Sunday's Performance: 

The Way of the Rain: Hope for Earth
Screening of the filmed performance of Sibylle Szaggars Redford’s multidisciplinary work featuring a narration by Robert Redford.
Sun, August 4 at 7 p.m.
Weill Hall
Tickets $45–$70

Screening of the filmed performance of Sibylle Szaggars Redford’s multidisciplinary work featuring a narration by Robert Redford. Join us, along with the Founder, President and Artistic Director of The Way of the Rain Sibylle Szaggars Redford and invited guest Robert Redford, for this special event.

Sibylle Szaggars Redford

Artistic Director | Founder and President

Sibylle Szaggars Redford is a German born multimedia environmental artist whose artwork has been exhibited throughout Europe, Monaco, Peru, Singapore, Japan, Suriname and the United States.

Szaggars Redford is the 2016 recipient of the US State Department’s Art in Embassies Program for the US Embassy in Paramaribo, Suriname where after visiting the countries Rain Forests and Indigenous Peoples, 10 of her site-specific Pieces were placed on permanent display in the US Embassy in Paramaribo, Suriname.

Her artistry spans across mediums and decades, from painted oil sketches and photographs of her Moroccan travels, expressions on canvas from her American Indian Pueblo visits, large Oil paintings where she explores “The Shape of Color,” and her recent works of watercolor abstracts shaped by the monsoon rains of Santa Fe, New Mexico, California and abroad.

Having worked as an environmental artist for almost 4 decades, her desire is to create art that transcends words, languages, cultures and politics. Szaggars Redford creates art in order to speak to a deeper universal consciousness that’s connected to and dependent on the earth and its environments. In order to find a stronger voice through art for the Earth, Szaggars Redford entered the world of performance art as an homage to the universal elements and an artistic medium for environmentalism in action.

In 2013 Szaggars Redford in collaboration with Icelandic Composer and Musician David Thor Jonsson, designed a concept for a staged art performance piece “The Way of the Rain” which would incorporate different art forms; music, dance, film, light, spoken word and her first designed stage backdrop of multiple large “Rain Painting Silks” that would symbolize falling water from the heavens.

Since then, Szaggars Redford has collaborated with various world renowned composers, choreographers and performers with presentations nationwide, The United Emirates of Abu Dhabi, the Stern Auditorium / Perelman Stage at Carnegie Hall and the Opening Night of the 68th United Nations – NGO – International Conference.

In 2015 Szaggars Redford founded The Way of the Rain, Inc. a Non for profit Organization with the specific purpose of developing, producing and performing educational and artistic performances – themed and designed to promote public awareness to support the protection of our Earth.

In addition to presenting “The Way of the Rain” performances and developing new staged versions of “The Way of the Rain” Szaggars Redford continues to create and exhibit new art.

Beginning of March 2020 during the time of the Covid – 19 lockdown and isolation, Szaggars Redford in collaboration with Composer Tim Janis and environmental activist Robert Redford began creating “The Way of the Rain – Reflections on Earth” video series shorts – a Gift of Hope to the World and an invitation to reflect on the beauty and wonders of our Planet Earth.

“The Way of the Rain – Reflections on Earth” Ocean video series shorts have been screened around the world at the “Virtual“ Earth X Conference – April 22-27, 2020, the United Nations Oceans Day “Virtual” Earth X Oceans and National Geographic Conference – June 9-10, 2020, Earth X Australia / Oceana Conference – June 11, 2020 and the United Nations “Peace Boat” Conference on June 12, 2020.

“The Way of the Rain – Reflections on Earth” video series shorts continue to focus on the World’s Natural Environments; their delicate Ecosystems and Biodiversity which are important and necessary to maintain in order to preserve the existence of all life on Earth.  For more information: www.sibylleszaggarsredford.com

Robert Redford

Robert Redford (born August 18, 1936, Santa Monica, California, U.S.) is an American motion-picture actor and director known for his diversity of screen characterizations, commitment to environmental and political causes, and for founding the Sundance Institute and Film Festival in Utah.

About Festival del Sole
The story of Festival del Sole, as its name suggests, starts in Italy in the 1990’s, where Barrett Wissman and wife, cellist Nina Kotova, had often discussed organizing an event somewhere in the world where friends could make music together in a warm welcoming atmosphere. In 2003, the Festival del Sole was born in Cortona in Tuscany, and incorporated a vast array of events including concerts, fine art exhibitions, culinary events, wine tastings, and literary events.  In 2006, Barrett Wissman brought the Festival Del Sole to Napa Valley, which has now become Festival Napa Valley. Barrett Wissman has decided to bring back to Northern California in 2024, in partnership with the stunning acoustic and architectural gem, the Green Music Center at Sonoma State University and its Executive Director Jacob Yarrow.

Good News on the Precarious Saga of Petaluma's Historic Downtown Rail Trestle Rehabilitation Project

A rendering drawn by Robert Frank for Heritage Homes of Petaluma in January 2016 of what a rehabilitated trestle would look like based on designs prepared by GHD in 2011

It has been two years since I wrote an extensive feature article on the 100th anniversary of Petaluma's Historic Downtown Rail Trestle on the southwest bank of the Petaluma River turning basin. An update has been in the works for a while. However, the subject of the deplorable state of the Trestle and the complex, precarious bureaucratic framework which had prevented its rehabilitation from moving forward at any definitive pace is a formidable local issue to report on.

Good news this first week in June, 2024, however, is that the City of Petaluma has newly revised its budget for the Trestle Project to fund at least the design phase of its rehabilitation/reconstruction through construction drawings and environmental permit applications. 

"Staff recently retained a consultant, Foth, for the design-phase work . . . with a kick off planned in June," responded Gina Benedetti-Petnic, Interim Director of Public Works and Utilities for the City, in response to my recent email querie as to the current status of the project.

Foth is based in Petaluma in the Marina and according to the company's website, suitably prides itself on solving its clients' toughest science, engineering and infrastructure problems. The Trestle certainly fits the bill. Foth will be working with Senior CIP Engineer, Steven Worrell, who is assigned to the Trestle project in Petaluma Public Works. 

This is encouraging indeed. As each month, the Trestle surface sinks closer to collapse. Many community groups, business owners and members have demanded progress on fixing up what has become a private amusement park for the colony of Norwegian river rats that call it home. Public patience had waned to the point of despair for the City of Petaluma and the Trestle's owner, Sonoma Marin Area Rail Transit to figure out a strategy and funding avenues for the realization of the construction of a genteel public promenade, long-since envisioned. 

Hot off the press as I readied to post this update, the email from Benedetti-Petnic further outlined that the design services will include planning, limited additional studies, design alternatives and options analysis and, ultimately, the final design of a rehabilitated Trestle. The design phase is expected to take approximately one year and include a robust public outreach component to seek community feedback and inform the design. 

Petaluma City Council Member Karen Nau reiterated: "The City of Petaluma is helping with design funding this year & next! $675,000.00 being appropriated for the Trestle Project. We just decided at last night's meeting. City "found funds" in unspent Appropriations in another Capital Improvement Project. Hopefully, more projects and the Trestle can get funded in the future. I will continue to advocate to spend CIP Budget Appropriations on these much needed projects that are assets to our community and enhance the quality of life."

Further notes from the Interim Director of Public Works and Utilities, speaking in her role and also on behalf of the City Manager, Peggy Flynn, who is on vacation at this time, instruct that the budget will fund the design phase through construction drawings and environmental permit applications. The trestle has been at the top of the City Council's list of "Goals and Priorities" since City Manager Peggy Flynn established the program. 

"With the project shovel-ready at that point, it will be much more competitive for the grant funding that will be needed to move the project forward into construction," explained Benedetti-Petnic. 

Thank heavens. After more than a quarter century of neglect, the ruin that is the dilapidated 1922 Petaluma Trestle is turning 102. And to borrow a quote from the New York Times on majestically moldering rail stations and historic rail structures, the Petaluma Trestle, has, until now, been: "slowly crushed by the boot of time". 

It's a political and civic hot potato. Transfer of ownership title from SMART to the City is, consequently, a remaining hurdle, even at a potential bargain sale of a single dollar. It's the City's lot to prepare contract documents for bid and confirm all permits and entitlements so as to not miss the boat on critical grant funding opportunities. SMART, for its part, is reportedly enthusiastic about the potential hand over, especially since there is no rail component in the plans. And SMART has pledged to provide some financial support for the grant process once the City has its game plan in place. 

However: "Until the City comes to an agreement with SMART and obtains rights to the trestle structure (currently owned by SMART), we do not have authority to perform alterations of any kind nor want to assume the risk of doing so. As we gain a more comprehensive understanding of the environmental risk and liability, staff will be better informed for our discussions with SMART regarding future ownership. There are several precedents required before staff can begin negotiating ownership with SMART, including a complete updated environmental analysis (amended EIR) so that the City understands the environmental liability and cleanup requirements. The City is better positioned to partner with SMART to apply for grants than assume ownership and go it alone."

The Trestle's story is entrenched in the pioneer history of Petaluma. Three decades before the advent of the interstate highway and trucking industry, the structure was built on the banks of the busy Petaluma River, to link the bustling water and rail-based forms of travel and goods movement. 

The structure itself is the original redwood members. It originally carried the weight of a freight line that transferred fresh produce and other goods from the agricultural fields north and west of Petaluma to heavily-laden steamers and schooners that traveled the slough waters into San Francisco Bay. It was these tracks and Trestle that enabled Petaluma to serve as the "Egg Basket to the World".

There are people figuratively camped out at the cautionary wire fencing waiting to give money to the Trestle project. Historic Petaluma Woman's Club, for one,  has been poised to help with support for widespread community engagement and fundraising for the past two years. The 150-member strong club has firmly committed to providing support for grant writing efforts, hosting community input meetings and eliciting support from numerous community partners and the public at large. 

Outgoing President of the Woman's Club, architect Colleen Mahoney, wrote to the city in February of this year: "It is evident that this project will be one that will bring everyone in our community together. We look to you, City of Petaluma to wholeheartedly support this project that is a win win for everyone in Petaluma."

However,  Mahoney does not mince words in reminding city officials that: "The continued deterioration is an embarrasement to our community." 

David Rabbitt, County Supervisor, Second District and Chair of the SMART Board of Directors informed Mahoney this week that SMART has indeed offered to sell the Trestle to the City for one dollar, so the ball is in the City's court regarding ownership. As far as grant funding goes, it does not appear any more advantageous who owns it. 

Rabbitt indicated that the City wishes to move further along in design and understanding of the total cost of the project before committing to its purchase. This would include demolition related environmental remediation. 

"Understandable, but either way, SMART and Petaluma need to partner on finding the resources to finish the project. SMART has made that commitment," he said. 

Mahoney  pointed to cities around the country that have reoriented toward their river pathways in recent years for leisure and recreation, including neighboring Napa. Riverfronts were the industrial warehouse districts of the early 1900s, whereas today, we celebrate our urban waterways as places to gather and entertain. Petaluma River Park is an extraordinary example of what can be done when we set our minds to it as a community.  

"This has the potential to be a shining example of how a community can come together and rehabilitate its riverfront as a world class promenade," Mahoney added. "Time is money and we need to get this done. It's non-controversial and everyone will benefit."

Our community understands that the Petaluma General Plan, The Central Specific Plan and the River Access and Enhancement Plan all emphasize the importance of reorienting toward the river. Rehabilitation of the trestle will improve public access, recreation, education and enhance the character, history and identity of Petaluma. 

Katherine Gregor, of Gregor Communications spoke with me on June 5th. Gregor has been active in the Time to Trestle campaign at the Petaluma Woman's Club. She has attended a series of meetings with the PWC committee members and City staff for more than a year.

"I also helped craft and submit the pre-application for a State Coastal Conservancy grant," she said. The Coastal Conservancy grant may be revisited once shovel ready plans are in place. "It's such great news that the City has finally allocated significant funds and hired a consultant to complete the design and engineering work. Yay!  But it's important to understand that those professional services are just one leg of the three-legged stool. On a parallel track, the City absolutely needs to pursue all possible grants to fund the construction — once it's a 'shovel-ready' project. Construction will require some $7-12M of outside funds, from the estimates I've seen. So, the project can't get done without millions in State or other funds."

The essential third leg is assuming legal ownership or hammering out a cross-agency maintenance agreement with SMART, Gregor added. "That has dragged on forever, for some sticky reasons. Understandably, the City doesn't want to assume liability for unknown future issues. And SMART doesn't really want it either.  So it's complex. City and SMART leadership need to be motivated to devote the time, sustained energy, resources and political moxie to get an agreement signed. Advancing on all three fronts at once, over this next year won't be easy  but with enough drive at the City, it can be done."  

Bill Rinehart, who serves on the city's Historic and Cultural Preservation Committee, wrote to the City Clerk, Mayor McDonnell and council members on May 20th, 2024. In his letter, he expressed to the mayor and council members that although it was good to see that the Historic Waterfront Trestle rehabilitation project remains on the City's project list, he was sad to see so little progress at that time. All this pressure on the City seems to have helped, given the more recent initial fund-finding news. 

"It's been ten plus years since plans, specifications and estimates were completed and now to be 'back to the drawing board' is a shame," he'd written.

The 2013 engineer's estimate for construction costs was $4,328,324. "The current C.I.P. lists it at $13,664,000. What does this tell us?" asked Rinehart. 

"This structure is the character defining feature of our city. Its current condition is unacceptable, yet its potential as an economic catalyst, a community hub and source of pride for generations is undeniable," Rinehart stressed. "Not to mention its importance to the history of our town and the successes of our regional economy. Please take action and get this funded and done. It can be your legacy."

Previous to the June 3rd funding announcement, I'd reached out in May to the Mayor of Petaluma, Kevin McDonell and Vice Mayor, John Shribbs with regards to the current status of the Trestle project, as well as the city clerk. I was encouraged to hear back from both the Mayor and Vice Mayor the following morning. 

The response from Mayor, Kevin McDonell was: "Alas funding continues to be a challenge. The City has a very limited amount of discretionary funding available.  It was always conceived that the construction funding (90%ish of total cost) would be from grant sources.  However, the City is finding it difficult to fund the investigations and design necessary for grant applications.  The City is still trying to pull the needed funding for investigation and design. Regarding the details of status that would be useful to your article, staff is the best source.  If you ask a Council member you will get opinion, enthusiasm, optimism and filtered status.  Only staff can give you facts. Let me reiterate my enthusiasm, optimism and hope."

And the reply from the Vice Mayor, John Shribbs, also prior to the funding announcement: "At the last city council meeting, Peggy (Flynn) said we are going to pursue a joint grant from SMART and the city assuming we can find a source of grant funding. The only other option is to buy the trestle from SMART for $1 and take on all responsibility and liability ourselves. Going for grant funding jointly is the better option."

Marie McCusker, Petaluma Downtown Association and Visitors Program Director commented on the subject this week: "The dilapidated, decaying trestle is an embarrassment to our city, yet we have the perfect opportunity to preserve its hardworking roots by creating an open space for the community. It is important to recognize the crucial role that parks and open spaces play in making our downtown more welcoming. Our history sets Petaluma apart as a Rivertown. Imagine Petaluman’s and visitors alike enjoying a park-like setting in the heart of our downtown, a place to gather, enjoy events, and create an authentic sense of place. The financial investment is critical to move this much-needed project forward and the time is now!"

Trestle Preservation advocate Historian Katherine Rinehart reports: "As many may know from watching the May 20, 2024, Petaluma City Council budget workshop, the trestle rehabilitation project remains a priority within the FY 2024-2025 Capital Improvement Program Budget."

The Rinehart's are among many residents and activists who have urgently called for the rehabilitation of the historic Trestle. No other couple more so than Christopher and Elaine Stevick, pictured below. 

Christopher Stevick is an award winning preservation and restoration contractor and a recipient of the Petaluma "Good Egg" award. Elaine, a retired speech pathologist, choir member of numerous local choral groups and a prominent board member of Petaluma Woman's Club and its Time to Trestle Campaign. Together they have dedicated decades of their life and more recently, an entire room in their historic west Petaluma Victorian home to campaigning for the saving and restoration of the Trestle. 

Stevick has hands-on experience in significant restorations on numerous historic structures in Petaluma, including St. Vincent's Church, Hotel Petaluma, the Carnegie Library and Museum and the removal of the fake facade of the Sienna Antiques building, downtown. He has refused to back down in his support for the restoration of the Trestle and has spearheaded numerous events and demonstrations over the years, including a prominent "This Place Matters" campaign and photo opportunity which led to a $500,000 grant from California Coastal Conservancy for environmental analysis. 

His extensive and formidable stack of documentation dates back to 2010 and contains email exchanges, council presentations, city-based studies, correspondence and council-approved goals, including inspections last spring when the team from Porter & Associates worked with the city’s structural engineering consultants GHD, to complete the detailed “timber assessment” of the Trestle.

Though many long-time Petalumans fondly remember the last of the trolley-era along the Trestle and as an outdoor gathering space for  boating and river festivals, there is no longer any push to bring back trains along the historic structure. 

Interestingly, Stevick's research showed that reinforcement of the structure would, in fact, be substantial enough to carry the weight of a trolley (and this was his dream for many years). In its heyday, The Petaluma Riverfest attracted thousands of visitors to the Trestle. Imagine that now? As a compromise, the Stevick's realization of a pedestrian promenade would be enough of a dream come true at this point. 

I called the Stevicks on their vacation in Tahoe with news of the June 3rd funding announcement. Elaine Stevick is especially enthusiastic as a spokesperson for the Woman's Club in that the club has been encouraging of more public input on the Trestle project for some time.

"We have the meeting space in our beautiful Brainerd-Jones' designed craftsman clubhouse on B Street," she reiterated. "And we look forward to hosting many public input conversations at the Woman's Club going forward." 

As for Christopher Stevick: "This will make national news! The Trestle will draw a great deal of money to support our merchants and possibly help with continued dredging. Inch by inch, we're getting there."  He added that he's looking forward to the project gathering momentum and the snowball effect of plans coming together after so long.

The Historic Petaluma Mill fronts most of the length of the Trestle and has been converted through adapted reuse from grain processing and warehousing to a mix of retail and business services. The Trestle structure begins on the south end at the Petaluma Yacht Club and ends at the north end at the Water Street Plaza. Completion of the Trestle project would double the riverfront open space in the historic downtown area. 

I strolled the riverfront Saturday morning, May 24th and stopped for breakfast at Water Street Bistro. There, I watched as a yacht was stuck in the mud in a super low tide. A line of yachts was moored at the foot of the trestle. While it's great that funding finally came in for the dredging of the river, I wondered what the sailing community make of this unsightly and shocking scene in the heart of our downtown? 

The decaying Trestle certainly smelled as bad as it looked, especially in low tide and it wasn't a particularly warm morning. A fellow diner was observing the commotion of the stuck yacht. "Am I dumb or what?" she asked. "But I just don't get this Trestle situation."

"Don't worry," I reassured her. "You're not alone." 

I walked back down to the river on the morning of June 4th, 2024 and took a video of the Trestle in its current condition, stopping in for a coffee at the River Cafe. Along with Waterfront Bistro's Stephanie Rastettter, Riverfront Cafe owner, Ellias Ghattas must be two of the most patient business people in this part of town. Each have watched the Trestle's decay, day after day, week after week, for years, from their vantage points closest to the fenced off structure.

"Please continue to write about it," he urged. "I heard the pilings are okay after the engineering report came in. I saw them out there," he said. "The Trestle fixed-up would be big news for everyone."

I asked Gina Benedetti-Petnic about the report on the pilings. Her response is technical, but it's important to include the Interim Director of Public Works and Utlities response with regards to a complete structural component of the Trestle that was performed in 2023 by the City's consultant, GHD Engineers and their subconsultant, Porter & Associates: 

"The assessment was designed to provide information about the condition, species, and grade of the structural members. After more than a century of service, the condition of timber pilings, pile caps, sway braces, stringers, and decking that make up the Trestle varies broadly, from poor to excellent. Prior to the assessment, the species and structural grade of the various member types were unknown. The species and grade, along with condition, determine the amount of load each member can support. This assessment provides a more reliable means of determining the allowable stresses and identifying structural members requiring reinforcement or replacement. These determinations from the assessment about wood species and member grading are also essential to identifying suitable repair materials in compliance with the Secretary of the interior’s Standards for Treatment of Historic Properties. In other words, this assessment is a critical foundation for the design work that we are now undertaking.

That study determined the wood species for various member types, visual assessments of the structural members (piles, pile caps, stringers, braces), moisture content measurements, and resistance drilling to quantify internal deterioration. The high level summary of that assessment concluded that the timber piles showed significant deterioration and almost all piles were found to require repair or replacement: 170 piles were determined to have moderate to severe wood decay damage. The upper framing members (pile caps, stringers, and ties) are generally in better condition and can selectively be replaced where needed (mostly rated in the Fair to Excellent range)."

Sign up here for the Time to Trestle Facebook Group for community updates. 

The 150-member-strong Petaluma Woman's Club was founded in 1896 t0 take on positions of issues in Petaluma of the day. The establishment of a non-profit endowment fund last year makes it possible for the modern-day club to spearhead community fundraising for the Trestle Project once the City has established exactly where these monies will go. 

In the meantime, if you'd like to see this keystone project move forward, please comment on the City of Petaluma's General Plan Update Policy Frameworks to ensure that the trestle rehabilitation remains a priority for current and future city councils.  Input is due by June 20th, 2024. If you have trouble with the online comment process for the city, email your support for the Trestle to [email protected].

Katherine Rinehart has identified three frameworks where the trestle rehabilitation should be noted:

Economic Development

Policy ED-4.5 Invest in Downtown

Policy ED-6 Attract Visitors to Downtown

Parks
Goal P-3 Petaluma River Recreation

Policy P-4.1 Develop an Interconnected Public Space Network

Historic Resources

Guiding Principle #10

Policy HR-1.6 Prevent Demolition by Neglect

Policy HR-5.3 Promote Heritage Tourism

Watch out for more frequent update articles on the Trestle by independent journalist Frances Rivetti. Frances trained as a newspaper reporter in the UK. Based in Petaluma, Sonoma County, she writes on a wide range of lifestyle topics, with a special interest in history, natural history, travel, culture and food. Frances is the author of four books set in Northern California: Fog Valley Crush; Fog Valley Winter (Non-fiction); Big Green Country and The House on Liberty Street (Fiction). She is at work on a third novel, set on the Sonoma Coast, which she hopes to release in 2025. Find Frances' author pages at francesrivetti.com and on Facebook here. Her blog Southern Sonoma Country Life has been in circulation for over a decade, providing a platform for her to publish and share her feature articles widely via social media. 

 

 

Petaluma Gap Winegrowers Alliance 2024 Wind to Wine Festival August 10th — Immersive VIP Tastings of Petaluma Gap Wines at Gambonini Family Ranch

Photos © Fabian Jauregui.

The Petaluma Gap Winegrowers Alliance (PGWA) today announced the opening of ticket sales for their annual Wind to Wine Festival, celebrating the distinct wines grown in the wind-driven Petaluma Gap American Viticultural Area (AVA).  This year’s festival will return to the historic hay barn at Gambonini Family Ranch on Saturday, August 10.

New at the festival this year is the addition of three Seated Seminars, offering VIP attendees the opportunity to immerse themselves in a tasting of Petaluma Gap wines curated from multiple wineries. Seats are limited, and each tasting will be guided by winemakers and other representatives of the wines in the lineup.

Photos © Fabian Jauregui.

The Grand Tasting portion of the event will include 25+ wineries pouring a wide array of Petaluma Gap wines. The Girl & the Fig will provide delicious appetizers to pair with the wines, while Point Reyes Cheese will offer a sampling of their local artisanal cheese, and Clay Bell sets the festive mood playing acoustic guitar out on the beautiful patio.

PGWA expects another sold-out event and encourages all producers of Petaluma Gap wine to be part of the Wind to Wine Festival and work with the Alliance to promote their own Wind to Wine satellite events in conjunction with the Festival.

Photos © Fabian Jauregui.

“We are thrilled to be working with Gambonini Family Ranch and Girl + the Fig” said Scott Welch, Director of Farming for Jackson Family Wines and President of the PGWA Board of Directors. “Both of these partners are icons in our region and represent the best of the best,” said Welch.

“The Petaluma Gap Winegrowers would like to thank American AgCredit, returning as the Presenting Sponsor for Wind to Wine, as well as the Sonoma County Board of Supervisors as a supporting sponsor” Welch said. “We also look forward to new partners, co-sponsors and guests joining us for another successful and fun event.”

For more information or to purchase tickets please visit petalumagap.com.

 

About the Alliance

Founded in 2005, the Petaluma Gap Winegrowers Alliance (PGWA) exists to educate members of the wine trade and consumers about the Petaluma Gap AVA and to increase awareness of the region’s unique growing conditions and resulting wine quality. PGWA additionally supports member winegrowers and vintners within the region through ongoing programs and communications designed to help them maximize their success within the industry. The group’s membership is made up of grape growers, wineries, associate business members, sponsors, and local community members with a passion for the region and its wine.

About American AgCredit

American AgCredit was chartered in 1916 as part of the nationwide Farm Credit System and is the nation’s fourth-largest Farm Credit association. American AgCredit specializes in providing financial services to agricultural and rural customers in California, Colorado, Hawaii, Kansas, New Mexico, Nevada and Oklahoma, and serves capital market customers throughout the United States.

Top Pick — A La Carte Tickets Available to Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience May 16th to 19th, 2024

It's almost time for the 3rd Annual Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience — May 16th through 19th, 2024. I've been extremely lucky to attend several highlights during this terrific event over the past three years and I can't wait to head back up to Healdsburg to join in the fun again this year. Hope to see some familiar faces amongst the crowds. 

There are some Paltinum Packages still available if you're interested in a full four-day, unforgettable experience. Otherwise, tickets are available a la carte. Pop onto the site here and book tickets for the events that excite you most. For instance, Friday night's concert at Rodney Strong Vineyards sounds fantastic at $85 a ticket. Groove the night away with GRAMMY-winning guitarist, vocalist, and songwriter Christone “Kingfish” Ingram amidst the vineyards of Rodney Strong. Kingfish has quickly become the defining blues voice of his generation. 

This four day celebration features the best of world-renowned food and wines, highlighting the Makers Behind the Magic in our county: farmers, growers, winemakers and chefs mingling with globally recognized wines from around the globe. 

Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience highlighs culinary diversity, sustainable farming practices and our deep connection to agriculture with a plethora of tastings, cooking demos, seminars, concerts and parties. 

Back again this year by popular demand:

Annual Happenings:

• Welcome Celebration (Thursday 5/16, 6-8pm at Montage Grand Lawn)
• Grand Tasting (Saturday 5/18, 12-5pm at West Plaza Lot A
• Rooftop Lounge at The Matheson (Saturday 5/18, 12-4pm at The Matheson Rooftop)
• Magnum Party (Saturday 5/18, 8-11:45pm at The Matheson)

New things to consider:

• Bollywood Night on Saturday at La Crema with Chef Maneet Chauhan (Saturday)
• The Wine Down Pool Party at Francis Ford Coppola for all guests (Sunday)
• Live Cooking Demo at Little Saint (all Vegan sister restaurant to Single Thread) with Celebrity Chef Amanda Freitag (Saturday)
• Special Hawaiian dinner (with auction and raising funds for Maui Strong Fund) with Chef Lee-Ann Wong  (also coming in from Hawaii Four Seasons Resort – Exec Chef Ryan Schelling).
• Mazda is the event's official automotive partner, and the new car 2025 MAZDA CX-70 will debut at the event in May. 

Petaluma Celebrates National Historic Preservation Month

 

May is National Historic Preservation Month, and Petaluma is excited to celebrate for the third year. The event is recognized across the country to celebrate each community’s cultural heritage and the importance of preserving local history and historical places. This year, various local organizations are collaborating to provide a month’s worth of events and activities to celebrate Petaluma’s past.

“National Historic Preservation month is the perfect time to think about how we can preserve Petaluma’s vibrant past while also shaping a sustainable, culturally rich future. Along with our partners, we have lined up many exciting programs that build awareness about the people and places that have made Petaluma so special. Our hope is to inspire more conversations about how preservation and adaptive reuse can go hand-in-hand with innovation and progress,” says Stacey Atchley, executive Director of the Petaluma Historical Library & Museum.

The first local National Historic Preservation Month event takes place on Wednesday, May 1st, at 6:30 p.m. at the Petaluma Historical Library & Museum  with an in-depth presentation and discussion by urban planner Dan Zack on the adaptive reuse of historic buildings in downtown revitalization efforts.

Other scheduled events include walking tours of historic downtown. In the last two weeks of May, the Petaluma Regional Library History Room librarian, Connie Williams, has teamed up with local historian Katherine Rinehart to organize a Petaluma History Scavenger Hunt.

Join in on May 15th (6:30 pm) at the rehabilitated Carlson-Currier Silk Mill, now operating as Petaluma’s newest “old” hotel—the Hampton Inn—for a lively panel discussion of local tourism organizations on the role of tourism place-keeping and place-making at the state and local levels.

Petaluma Adobe State Historic Park will host Living History Day on May 25th.

Petaluma has a rich history dating back to the mid-1800s, and the city takes pride in preserving its unique character and charm, its vibrant history museum, a State Historic Park, a Petaluma history room at the local library, and a community supportive of historic preservation.

“In a time when we are all rushing to the newest tech and a time where so much in the world is changing, it is key that we remember where we have been as a means of grounding us. Petaluma celebrates and honors our community's history in the beautiful architecture of our historic residential and commercial buildings. Investments and care in the historic preservation of our legacy structures will be the gift we give to Petalumans of the future,” sas Mayor Kevin McDonnell.

For more information about events, click here for website

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The Petaluma Historical Library & Museum is the Historical Heart of Petaluma. Its mission is to preserve the unique history of Petaluma and provide educational and cultural services to the community. Open Thursday - Sunday 10am - 4 pm. Admission is free, donations appreciated!

The long wait for news on the city's historic riverfront rail trestle renovation project may be inching closer to a start date in the forseeable future. Applications with shovel ready plans for national funding are the hot topic of conversation in Petaluma's historic circles. The Petaluma Woman's Club, founded in 1895 by a group of civic minded and visionary women, has provided the city with grant writing support and a pledge to fundraise for extras for a public riverfront promenade once construction grants have been secured. Click here to find out more about the Woman's Club's ongoing Time to Trestle efforts. 

Click here for a video of Katherine Gregor, spokesperson for Petaluma Woman's Club speaking about the Trestle, this Spring. 

 

The Third Annual Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience, May 16-19, 2024

Wine lovers take note. The third annual Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience (HWFE) — a weekend-long celebration featuring the best of Sonoma County and world-renowned food and wines, returns May 16 to 19th, 2024, showcasing our region’s great makers – farmers, growers, winemakers, and chefs – alongside globally recognized wines from other great wine regions of the world. 

I've been fortunate to attend this event in its first two years and I must say it is exceptionally well thought out, wine-country chic, casual and at the same time, luxurious, fun and well organized.  

The weekend-long event will include special wine tastings and seminar discussions, exceptional lunches, dinners, celebrity chef demonstrations, cocktail experiences, and an expansive Grand Tasting to highlight Sonoma County's vibrant culinary diversity, sustainable farming practices and deep connection to agriculture. There will also be a live outdoor concert featuring Christone “Kingfish” Ingram at Rodney Strong on Friday, May 17^th.

New highlights this year include J Vineyards’ Shifting the Lens exclusive experience with Tu David Phu, James Beard Award nominee, Top Chef contestant and a San Francisco Chronicle “Rising Star Chef,” a Bollywood Culinary Dance Celebration at La Crema Winery, and a Wine-Down Pool Party at Francis Ford Coppola Winery. This year’s event will also feature a Culinary Demonstration at Little Saint Healdsburg with celebrity chef and cookbook author Amanda Freitag and a special Hawaiʻi themed dinner party at The Matheson with with local star Dustin Valette and Hawaiʻi Chef Lee Anne Wong raising awareness that Maui is open for business and welcomes mindful travelers back to the island.

"We're thrilled for our third annual event in May," esays Steve Dveris, founder and CEO of the festival. "In just a short time, we've made a national impact as the first international wine and food festival in Sonoma County and Napa Valley, showcasing wines from around the globe. Our event pillars remain celebrating the talented makers, honoring our agricultural roots, culinary diversity, and sustainability, while pairing local talent with top chefs nationwide. Get ready for an incredible weekend packed with fun, surprises, music, and, of course, the finest wine and food!"

Chefs who are participating in the event include some returning favorites as well as several new faces. Joining  for the first time is Kelsey Barnard Clark, season 16 Bravo’s Top Chef Winner, Amanda Freitag author and Food Networks “Chopped,” and Iron Chef America regular, Jeffrey Lunak, Chef/Owner of Sumo Dog, Michael Reed James Beard Best Chef: California semi-finalist, and Lee Anne Wong author, Chef/owner Koko Head Cafe in Honolulu, Contestant and Culinary Consultant on Bravo’s Top Chef.

Event producers welcome back local chef Dustin Valette, chef/owner of The Matheson, 2021 Food & Wine’s Best New Chef Matt Horn; Food Network star Maneet Chauhan; “Top Chef” season four winner Stephanie Izard; Food Network’s “Chopped” star and 2011 Food & Wine’s Best New Chef and Iron Chef America winner Viet Pham, and Food & Wine’s Executive Wine Editor Ray Isle. Much loved, local participating chefs include Domenica Catelli, Duskie Estes, Crista Leudtke, Tracey Shepos Cenami, Leah Scurto, and Ari Weiswasser.

Events will be held around Healdsburg, including at The Matheson, Sushi by Scratch: Healdsburg, Montage Healdsburg, Lo & Behold Bar + Kitchen and Little Saint, along with wineries including Bacchus Landing, Bricoleur Vineyards, Chalk Hill Estate, J Vineyards & Winery, Kendall-Jackson Estate and Gardens, Marine Layer and Rodney Strong Vineyards, Dutton Ranch and more.

The event also strives to give back to the local community. The outdoor concert at Rodney Strong Vineyards on Friday evening with Christone “Kingfish” Ingram benefits Farm to Pantry, whose goal is to bring together our communities to end food injustice and reverse global warming by rescuing and sharing locally grown food with those who have been marginalized. We will contribute to the Sonoma County Grape Growers Foundation. The organization’s mission is to raise funds that support the Leadership Academy, workforce development and other resources that elevate local vineyard employees and their families. This year’s event will also support Healdsburg Future Farmers of America (FFA). Sponsored by Foley Family Foundation, a significant donation will be directed to the HWFE Future Farmers Scholarship, created by HWFE for students from the local Healdsburg High School FFA chapter.

"As co-founders and partners in this remarkable endeavor, we are deeply committed to our dual mission: showcasing Sonoma County's extraordinary wine, agriculture, and commitment to sustainability on a global platform, while simultaneously raising vital funds to uplift and honor our local vineyard workforce. This mission permeates every aspect of our events and messaging throughout the entire weekend. What could be more fulfilling than enjoying oneself while also making a positive impact?" says Karissa Kruse, CEO & President of Sonoma County Winegrowers and Executive Director of the Sonoma County Grape Growers Foundation.

Partners of the Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience include Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Gardens, Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, Foley Food & Wine Society, FOOD & WINE, The Hawaiian Islands, and with event co-founders the Sonoma County Winegrowers.

About Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience

Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience is a four-day celebration featuring the best of world-renowned food and wines and highlighting the “Makers Behind the Magic.” The festival showcases the region’s makers – farmers, growers, winemakers, and chefs – alongside globally recognized wines from other great wine regions of the world. HWFE highlights vibrant culinary diversity, sustainable farming practices and a deep connection to agriculture, through tastings,

Culinary demonstrations, seminars, events, and more, in the beautiful setting of Healdsburg & Wine Country. https://www.healdsburgwineandfood.com/

What's New in Sonoma County This Spring 2024?

Springtime in Sonoma County is bursting forth with vibrant hues of more than a thousand species of wildflowers and mustard grass creating a Superbloom-like landscape not just in the valleys but also along the coastline. 

My husband, Timo and I took a drive out to hike the new addition to our regional parks, Chanselor Ranch (see notes in the new in the outdoors section) last weekend with our dog, Rosie. It was quite muddy in parts, but with sunshine on its way, things should dry up nicely. I'm super excited about this new park, especially as it's one where dogs on leash are welcome. 

The 2024 Jack London State Historic Park Wildflower Guide “Blooming Now”  offers valuable insights into the diverse array of blooms dotting the region.

Meanwhile, along the coastline, witness the annual migration of Pacific gray whales spouting water from their blowholes from late winter through spring. Indeed, now is a time of rejuvenation in Sonoma County, inviting all to immerse themselves in nature-inspired experiences as Life Opens Up. 

New in Experiences from Sonoma County Visitor's Program:

Seasonal Wine & Food Experience - Ram's Gate Winery  

Ram's Gate Winery has introduced a new menu for its Seasonal Wine & Food Experience, showcasing ingredients sourced from Sonoma County farms and paired with small-lot wines from their cellar. This communal, multi-course pairing experience, lasting 2 hours, has been curated by General Manager and Winemaker Joe Nielsen and Executive Chef Ruby Oliveros. Each dish on the menu is designed to highlight the nuances of the wines.  

West Wines School of Cab - West Wines 

School of Cab is West Wines Winery’s informal classroom to educate about Cabernet Sauvignon, the King of Red Wines. Sample highly regarded West Wines Cabernet Sauvignon from separate vintages. Learn how to assess color, aroma, and flavor in a fun and relaxed setting. Tasting includes a cheese and chocolate pairing.  April 20 | 10:30 am 

Vino and Vinyl's - Montagne Russe 

Montagne Russe, a small winery in Healdsburg, has elevated its wine tasting experience with the grand opening of Vino and Vinyl's, a record shop located within its tasting room. Guests can now enjoy Montagne Russe's wine selections while perusing and listening to over 2,000 new and used records, available for trade or purchase.  

Taste Destination 128 

Travel along the Alexander Valley wine trail and enjoy the offerings of seven premier wineries, showcasing the finest flavors of northern Sonoma County. Each stop along the way presents an assortment of locally sourced artisan cheese and charcuterie spread paired with hand-selected wines. Featured wineries and cheesemakers include deLorimier Winery partnered with Point Reyes Cheese, Pech Merle Winery accompanied by WM Cofield Cheesemakers, Ramazzotti Wines in collaboration with Pennyroyal Farms, Soda Rock Winery featuring Cypress Grove Creamery, and Trentadue Vineyards paired with Valley Ford Cheese. April 6 | 11:00 am 

Kunde Family Winery Dog Hike 

5th generation winegrower Jordan Kunde serves as your expert guide through the Kunde Estate for seasonal dog hikes. Discover paths that wind from the valley floor in the Valley of the Moon into the majestic Mayacamas Mountain range. Along the way, delve into the sustainable winegrowing and winemaking practices of Kunde Family Winery, gaining insights from grape to glass with your four-legged companion. This moderately strenuous hike, lasting approximately 4 hours, culminates in a Kunde wine tasting paired with a wine country lunch. April 20, June 8, November 2 | 9:00 am 

Earth Day at Safari West 

Celebrate Earth Day with Safari West as they proudly host 35 conservation organizations. Visitors can immerse themselves in interactive activities, informative displays, and captivating live animal presentations. Earth Day holds special significance at Safari West.  Through initiatives like our Earth Day celebrations, Safari West strives to engage the community in meaningful discussions about sustainability and the preservation of biodiversity. April 20 | 10:00 am 

Big West Wine Fest  

Wine enthusiasts and fans of minimal-intervention wines will gather in Guerneville for the second annual Big West Wine Fest, a celebration of natural wines in Sonoma County. Set in the redwood trees at Solarpunk Farms, a queer-run experimental farm just a mile from downtown Guerneville, this event offers a unique, only one of its kind mix of over 30 local wine producers dedicated to sustainable farming and minimalist winemaking techniques. In addition to sampling a diverse array of wines, attendees will enjoy offerings from local food vendors and enjoy live music, all within a relaxed and intimate atmosphere. Participating winemakers are deeply committed to Earth-friendly practices such as organic, biodynamic, and regenerative farming, resulting in wines that showcase a wide range of styles and grape varieties not commonly found in Sonoma County vineyards. June 1 – 2 | Tickets on sale March 16. 

Taste of Sonoma 

Taste of Sonoma celebrates Sonoma County's wine, food, and culinary culture. Held at Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Gardens, this highly anticipated annual event includes wine tastings from local wineries, culinary demonstrations by renowned chefs, gourmet food pairings, and live entertainment. Attendees can enjoy a wide selection of Sonoma County wines and delicious food prepared by local chefs and artisans. This event offers a sensory experience showcasing the Sonoma County best wine and food. Tickets on sale now. June 24 | 11:00 am 

New in Culinary 

Ethic Cider Farm 

At Ethic Cider Farm visitors can sample a selection of 15 to 20 ciders, along with its apple brandy and Pommeau. Approximately 5% of the offerings are nonalcoholic, reflecting a growing trend towards accommodating consumer preferences. Visitors can engage in experiential learning about regenerative farming practices within the orchard through various workshops. Modern Farming Workshops cater to a diverse audience, including agriculturists and backyard gardeners, aiming to provide a comprehensive introduction to farming techniques. Regenerative Farming Workshops offer hands-on experiences, allowing participants to learn while actively engaging in farming activities. | 12:00 to 5:00 pm | Friday - Sunday 

Healdsburg Mocktail Trail 

Continuing the trend towards embracing low or no alcohol options, the Mocktail Trail in Healdsburg offers diverse mocktail menus from many popular Healdsburg restaurants.  Mixologists at Lo & Behold, Spoon Bar, Bravas Bar de Tapas, Chalkboard, Goodnights Prime Steak & Spirits, Little Saint, The Rooftop at Harmon House, and Willi’s Seafood and Raw Bar have crafted drinks that feature a no-spirits menu going well beyond typical alcohol-free cocktails. From Spanish-inspired mocktails to coastal creations, each stop on the trail promises a unique and delightful experience.  

Tisza Bistro 

Tisza Bistro offers a fusion of Central European flavors with a distinct Californian flair.  Chef/Owner Krisztian Karkus has honed his skills in some of the world's most prestigious resorts, restaurants, and culinary destinations. At Tisza Bistro, Chef Krisztian delights in creating visually stunning presentations blending old-world European charm with contemporary Sonoma County sophistication. 

New in the Outdoors 

Chanslor Ranch Regional Park and Open Space Preserve 

Chanslor Ranch, a historic dairy ranch on coastal route Highway 1 in Bodega Bay, has been acquired by Sonoma County Agricultural Preservation and Open Space District for use as county regional park, and is open to the public. Long a privately owned getaway known primarily for horseback trail rides, the 378-acre ranch across Highway 1 from Bodega Dunes and Salmon Creek state beaches is now in county hands and open to the public. Visitors can hike 4.5 miles of trail leading up coastal hills, down to Salmon Creek and around the rugged landscape, which is bounded in part by the creek. Horseback riding is available through Five Brooks Bodega Bay. The land is known for a diversity of habitats, from wetlands to coastal prairie, as well as many plants and animals. The wetlands are a stopover for migrating birds, as well. 

Sonoma Botanical Garden 

Sonoma Botanical Garden (SBG), in collaboration with Sonoma Ecology Center and Habitat Corridor Project announced a new partnership aimed at designing and establishing a cutting-edge California native plant demonstration garden. The project, which recently broke ground at SBG, will unfold over several years, offering visitors an immersive experience to understand the importance of native plants in landscaping, biodiversity, and conservation efforts. Through public programs and tours, the garden will serve as an educational hub, inspiring appreciation for California flora and promoting sustainable landscape design principles. 

New in Air Travel 

Avelo Airlines  

Charles M. Schulz -Sonoma County Airport (STS) is Avelo Airlines’ newest west coast base of flight operations. Scheduled to commence operations on May 1st, this move allows Avelo to increase traveler service, convenience and reliability. Avelo Airlines has also extended its air service from STS to Palm Springs International Airport through the summer season. Avelo Airlines has also added flight service from STS to Boise, ID; Pasco, WA; Salem, OR, and Kalispell, MT. 

New in Accolades  

• The Farmhouse Inn in Forestville has made the Gold List, a collection of favorite hotels selected by the editors of Condé Nast Traveler. This is the third time it has achieved this designation. 

• The Forbes Travel Guide has honored Healdsburg’s SingleThread Farms and Restaurant with its top five-star luxury rating for 2024. Additional Sonoma County luxury establishments recommended by Forbes include the Farmhouse Inn and Farmhouse Inn Restaurant in Forestville. Forbes Travel Guide Star Award inspectors rate properties based on up to 900 objective criteria, according to Forbes. The inspectors are always anonymous and spend at least two days staying at the hotels they review. 

• Crista Luedtke, chef and owner of Guerneville’s boon eat + drink and proprietor of boon hotel + spa, and Casey Thompson, executive chef of Sonoma’s three-time Michelin Bib Gourmand awarded Folktable Restaurant, are among the 32 competitors going head-to-head on the fifth season of Food Network’s “Tournament of Champions,” hosted by Sonoma County’s very own Guy Fieri.   

• The Charles M. Schulz Museum and Research Center and Rancho Obi-Wan, known for Snoopy and Star Wars respectively, have secured spots in the top 10 of the 2024 USA Today 10Best Readers’ Choice travel award contest for Best Pop Culture Museum.  

• Sonoma County Vintners will honor Marimar Torres, Founder & President of Marimar Estate Vineyards & Winery, as a Sonoma County Icon and George Christie, Founder and CEO of the Wine Industry Network and Partner of Saini Vineyards, as a Sonoma County Innovator during the May 3rd Sonoma County Barrel Auction at MacMurray Estate Vineyards in Healdsburg. 

Exploring the History and Culture of the Hostess City — Savannah, Georgia

Photos by Frances Rivetti

Antebellum architecture, shaded squares, colonial and civil rights history, southern charm and hospitality — the enormous draw of Savannah as the jewel of Georgia is renowned around the world, despite, or maybe because of its geographic seclusion and a metro population of less than half a million. This is a city whose extraordinary character and personality far outweigh its size. And I, like so many of people from all over the globe, had yearned for a visit for years.

It took a January invitation to me to read from my latest novel for a large book group in the Charleston area, in neighboring South Carolina to finally motivate me to make the trip cross-country and savor Savannah as my first course of a double southern bill. 

Savannah's public squares are located across a one-square-mile area of downtown. Each square is around 200 feet north to south in size and 100 to 300 feet east to west. 

"The original four squares of Savannah date to 1733 and were a distinctive part of  English General James Oglethorpe's plan for the city," says American Planning Association in its account of great public spaces in America. "Eventually squares were located in the center of each of the city's 24 neighborhoods or "wards." The foresight of Oglethorpe's design continues to provide an extraordinary example of how public space provides a timeless and lasting amenity to a community. Very much used and beloved, the squares are essentially public "living rooms" where residents and visitors alike go for morning and evening strolls, afternoon games and activities, and special events and celebrations."

This is immediately apparent upon visiting Savannah. Twenty-one of the 24 original squares, all located within the boundaries of the city's National Landmark Historic District, remain pretty much the way they were when originally built (largely on the backs of enslaved people) during the 18th and 19th centuries. Each square has its own identity, reflecting a sense of place that mirrors the character of its neighborhood and surroundings. The 22nd square, Ellis, has been reclaimed after having been used for the site of a parking garage.

The squares help calm traffic, creating a safer and more pleasant  pedestrian and bicyclist experience. Oglethorpe was a member of Parliament in England and a social reformer, founding Georgia after a grant from King George II, to resettle Britain's poor, especially those in debtors' prison. He and his men cleared a flat tract of pine forest and established a small group on the Savannah River, intending to create a debtors colony, free of vice. The establishment of his Georgia colony was based on three motives: philanthropic, commercial, and military — "Asilum of the Unfortunate," a place for England's "worthy poor"  to earn a living exporting goods produced on small farms. His squares were designed as public commons for grazing cattle and provide a buffer from fire wiping out the entire settlement. Oglethorpe ardently believed in human rights, freedom and justice and railed against slavery, prohibiting it within the colony until he had little choice but to depart from Georgia and return to England, where he railed against slavery for the rest of his life. 

Unusually in colonial history, Oglethorpe was intent on maintaining good relations with native tribes. Tomochichi was the mico, or chief, of the Yamacraw Indians, a small band of Lower Creek Indians that lived in coastal Georgia when he arrived with the colonists. After Oglethorpe selected Yamacraw Bluff as the site for the colony’s first settlement, Mico Tomochichi welcomed him and the colonists. 

According to Georgia Historical Society, Mico Tomochichi considerd the colony an opportunity for his people to trade with and to establish diplomatic connections with the English.

"Tomochichi assisted the colonists in laying out roads. In 1734, Tomochichi, his wife Senauki, their adopted son Toonahowi, and six Lower Creek tribesmen accompanied Oglethorpe on a trip to England. The chief was looking for assurances that his people would benefit from education and fair trade policies with the English. In 1736, after their return to Savannah, a short-lived school was established for the children of his tribe."

Tomochichi and Oglethorpe worked closely together and asked advice of each another. After the trip to England, Tomochichi traveled with Oglethorpe south of Savannah to determine the southern border of the colony, an important border in the defense of the English colonies against the Spanish to the south. Oglethorpe held a military funeral to honor Tomochichi after his death and the chief's grave was marked with a pyramid made of stones. A granite boulder replaced the stones in 1899. The boulder remains in Wright Square in Savannah, along with a copper plaque commemorating the mico.

There are plenty of places to stay in Savannah. Although I was tempted to book an inn or bed and breakfast in the quieter, south zone of the historic district, I couldn't resist the lure of The Marshall House (1851), one of the city's oldest inns, on bustling Broughton Street in the North Zone and walkable to everything. In 1864-65, The Marshall House was occupied by Union troops led by General William Tecumseh Sherman. The building was used as a Union hospital for wounded soldiers until the end of the Civil War. As guests, we were invited to visit the 3rd floor and view a collection of original prints, newspapers, letters, and documents reflecting Savannah’s experience during the Civil War.

The hotel’s colorful history also includes its role as a hospital during the Yellow Fever Epidemics in the mid-1800s. Rumors and reports abound, including guests reportedly seeing ghosts in the hallways and foyers, hearing children running down the long, narrow halls late at night, faucets turning on by themselves. I wasn't deterred after reading this during booking, considering the inn's popularity outweighing any real chance of experiencing a series of fright nights.

However, after checking in and being regalled by a local historian during a most generous happy hour, I had second thoughts on night one, after settling into bed. The prospect of a ghost child tickling my toes was more than I had bargained for in this city of spirited souls. Needless to say, the only spooky sensation I experienced was waking up to the clanking heating system during an unusually cold snap and possible sighting of a ghost cat which I was concerned about being trapped in the room. Phantom kitties are perfectly able to let themselves out through a locked door, so all was well by morning. 

I've had several paranormal run-ins during my life and travels and I was most appreciative to check out at the end of my stay at the Marshall House without having much to add to its haunting accounts. Although, I had left the light on all night during my fourth and final night's stay, as my husband, Timo, flew back to California the day before I was due to travel on to Charleston. I was not about to take a chance on the spooks singling me out on my owneome. 

House tours were top of my list.

Visitors to the Owens-Thomas House & Slave Quarters are guided through one of the finest examples of Regency architecture in America as well as the original slave quarters designed to house the enslaved men, women and children who maintained it. Our guide was as passionate about history of architecture and the south as he was with regards to the abolition of slavery and and end to centuries of bondage, exploitation and abuse. The tour includes an exploration of the lives, injustices and relationships of the most and least powerful people in 19th century Savannah — such as the wealthy Owens family who owned the property for 121 years and the many enslaved people who labored to support and maintain the household. 

The house was designed by architect William Jay and completed in 1819. Jay was born and raised in wealthy and innovative Bath, England, a city shaped by palladian and neoclassical architecture. It was in London, just as regency style architecture was emerging, that he spent six years as architect David Riddall Roper’s apprentice. Jay was young and not fully qualified upon his arrival in the colony, however, the city of Savannah was ripe for potential and architects flocked. His solid design was constructed by builder John Retan and likely a team of skilled free and enslaved men in his charge. It and seven other of his designs have withstood major hurricanes and the test of time. 

Now a National Historic Landmark, the property boasts a carefully curated mansion with a formal parterre garden and an original carriage house, which includes the only intact urban slave quarters open to the public in Savannah. The Owens-Thomas House slave quarters is complete with the nation’s largest expanse of slave-applied haint blue paint, made from indigo and thought to ward off evil spirits. Ceilings throughout the south are painted haint blue today in part a nod to the past and in equal part to stave off the many spirits that roam. 

The tour also provides an exploration of the home’s remarkable features, including Savannah’s earliest system of indoor plumbing, an indoor bridge and the balcony from which the Marquis de Lafayette is said to have addressed a crowd of locals in 1825, as well as insight about how each room was used in that time and by whom. Roll-out mats rest under the children's beds, a poignant reminder of the injustices of enslaved women who were separated from their own children, or unable to care for them personally, while they raised the offspring of their enslavers.

Tours of the Owens-Thomas House & Slave Quarters are given daily at fifteen-minute intervals. The last tour begins at 4:15 pm. We bought our tour ticket as part of a package with the Telfair Museums Pass, which took us into and around the Jepsen Center and the historic Telfair Academy that same day. Mary Telfair bequethed her home to the Georgia Historical Society in 1875. The house opened to the public in 1886 as the first public art museum in the South and the first museum in the United States founded by a woman. It contains three 19th century period rooms and a beautiful collection of 19th century American and European art, including the famous bronze Bird Girl (1936). 

Best known for the cover photo of Midnight in The Garden of Good and Evil, modern-classic true crime portrait of Savannah by John Berendt which is celebrating it's 30th anniversary in print this year, Bird Girl was commissioned around 1938 by Lucy Boyd Trosdal, from the artist Sylvia Shaw Judson, commemorating Boyd Trosdal's deceased daughter, originally as a garden statue and later for the family plot in Bonaventure Cemetery. The pose does not symbolize the weighing of good and evil, rather the bowls in her upturned hands were intended as food and water holders for birds. After the book became so popular, the sanctity of the site was invaded by thousands of visitors. The family removed the sculpture, later loaning it to the Telfair Museum for safekeeping.

I had read Midnight in The Garden of Good and Evil cover to cover before my trip to the south. I watched the movie on my friend Brian's big screen after I finished the book. It was the ideal primer for my visit, though for me, unlike many tourists, it wasn't the only thing I was after. Not by far. I wanted to soak in the city itself, the sublime energy of the Spanish moss that drapes, languorously from the many hundreds, if not thousands of wise old live oaks that line 22 lauded squares that positively drip with history. I'd pre-ordered a self guided walking tour book and was slightly intimidated by the scope of the city on paper. In person, once my feet were planted on the old brick paths, I found my way around easily. 

Traveling with Timo is always a guarantee that we'll cover more miles than I could imagine walking alone, each day. My curiosity was piqued by the Mercer House as we passed by, having read Berendt's "non-fiction" novel, a strange concept for a Pulitzer-prize winning account of the infamous murder trials of late owner, antiques dealer and preservationist, Jim Williams. However, holiday off-season hours rendered it closed Tuesdays through Thursdays. Tuesday was our first full day and I was headed to Charleston first thing Friday morning. If there had been more than one train a day I would have managed to squeeze it in, but alas, it was not meant to be. In a way, I'm glad I didn't go inside, although Williams' collection is one of the finest in the south. It's important for readers to remember that Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil was a heavily fictionalised take on factual events and people. I can't imagine a journalist being able to produce such a work these days, but I guess we have the internet for that, today. 

Savannah's recorded history began in 1733. That's the year General James Oglethorpe and the 120 passengers of the good ship "Anne" landed on a bluff high along the Savannah River in February. Oglethorpe named the 13th and final American colony "Georgia" after England's King George II. Savannah became its first city.

There was plenty of history to absorb from the early colonial period on, but we were also interested in learning more about more recent history and not least the on-going recognition of centuries of horrendous history of enslavement. 

The Ralph Mark Gilbert's Civil Rights Museum was open and we took a detailed tour to learn about Savannah's powerful grass roots Civil Rights movement in the 1960s. The museum is located in the city's Historic area, on Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard. The street was once named West Broad Street, the heart of the city's black business community. The building that houses the museum was built in 1914 as the Wage Earners Savings Bank, the second largest black bank in America at the time. There was also a barber's shop in the building. Three floors of informative historic photos, documentaries and interactive exhibits document the city's Jim Crow era and Civil Rights movement. 

We spent some time taking in the river front and the old cotton warehouses. Southern plantations had focused on producing tobacco, rice, cotton and sugar for national and international markets for two centuries. Tobacco and cotton exhausted the soil rapidly and cotton was so time-consuming to process, it became less and less profitable as a cash crop. Today, better land use, improved cotton plant varieties, mechanization, fertilization and irrigation has continued the cotton industry in the southern states in a far more humane industry. According to the National Cotton Council, Uzbekistan, the People’s Republic of China, India, Brazil, Pakistan and Turkey are now the other leading countries of cotton production.

What and where to eat were top of mind during all this walking and talking and soaking in of history. I had only made one reservation ahead of time, figuring we'd take recommendations from locals once we were in Savannah. Lucky for us we managed a cellar table in The Olde Pink House  for an intimate supper of low country fayre in the piano bar. Unbeknown to me until after our enjoyable evening, The Olde Pink House was ranked number 5 in the Most Romantic Restaurants in America for 2023 on Open Table. 

The cellar is a little more low key than the main dining rooms, but I like low key and Kenny the piano player was the ideal accompaniment. 

Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) is a big deal in town and by a big deal, I mean major! The Gryphon resides in genteel splendor within the 50 plus campus buildings throughout the city. There are no reservations at the Gryphon so I was keeping my finger's crossed we'd get a table for lunch, or tea in this coveted corner position on Savannah's Madison Square, inviting us in with its timeless 1926 Scottish Rite architecture and former pharmacy fittings. The elegant interior features white-clothed tables, carved mahogany bookcases and original stained-glass panels. Timo's not a big fan of afternoon tea as a meal, so I let him off this time and we enjoyed delicious and healthy lunch salads and herbal mocktails. If I'm ever back in Savannah I'm high-tailing it back for tea and scones. 

I'd seen The Grey and its lauded port city southern food featured on tv and was not risking missing out on a table, so I had booked ahead. Chef Mashama Bailey's  1938 former art deco Greyhound Bus Terminal has been painstakingly restored to its original luster, providing a fantastic food, wine and service experience. The celebrated chef's penchant for regional produce, seafood and meats, creates a melting pot of surprising and comforting tastes amidst warm, old-world hospitality in which we made friends with all the people on the tables around us. What a wonderful restaurant and dining experience to take with us as we journeyed on, savoring this first experience in the south.

If You Go:

Three nights is just enough to experience Savannah, but four is better and stay longer if you can. I'd highly recommend visiting in the winter. I imagine Christmas is a wonderful time to enjoy Savannah but January was great for walkability and not too many crowds and February will be much the same. March I hear is nuts if you land in the area around St.Patrick's Day. The city has a large Irish American heritage and renowned parade and all-day partying. If St. Patrick's Day is your thing then book well ahead as all hotels and restaurants sell out for days. Click here for more reasons to visit off-season. 

Spring brings blooms galore and an abundance of festivals and is said to be the most beautiful time to visit the squares and gardens. Summer is steamy and fall season may be tricky weather-wise. 

Getting there is not the easiest. We flew into Savannah from Miami after a couple of nights in South Beach. Flight was about an hour and a half from Miami. Most routes will connect through Atlanta, depending on your departure destination. 

Amtrak from Savannah to Charleston or Charleston to Savannah takes one hour and 48 minutes. Stations are out of town so a taxi or ride will be necessary once you arrive. No one seemed to know where the Amtrak station was in Savannah, which was interesting as the great passenger terminal stations and union stations in Atlanta, Augusta, and Savannah were demolished in the 60s nd 70s so Amtrak provides the only remaining passenger service in and out of Savannah today. Hundreds of small-town depots were torn down, moved, or converted to other uses, including the Savannah depot which now serves as a museum and visitor center. 

Take an all-day hop on and off tour on the Old Town Trolley for the lay of the land when you arrive. We went around the entire loop and hopped on and off on the second go around after figuring out what we wanted to see the first day. After that we felt comofortable following a map on foot. There's also a handy Blue Dot free bus service for rides back from longer expeditions. 

Pick from historic inns, bed and breakfasts, modern hotels, motels and vacation rentals. Many boast tales of ghostly goings on during the night time hours. I was relieved not to be too spooked during our stay at The Marshall House, a charming and hospitable place to base ourselves in the heart of the shopping district and walkable to the historic squares, river, museums and house tours. 

Be sure to book ahead for dining reservations. It's worth doing your research ahead of time so as not to miss out on specific restaurants. And most importantly, if you have a particular house tour, museum or place of interest you wish to visit, check specific opening days and times and tour booking requirements before you book your trip. 

Click here to read an interesting article on founder, James Oglethorpe and his fight against slavery in the Savannah Morning News.