Southern Sonoma Country Life

Tickets for 13th Annual California Artisan Cheese Fabulous Range of Festival Farm & Producer Tours and Seminars & Events (March 23 to 24, 2019) Now Available for Purchase

California’s premier cheese event, the California Artisan Cheese Festival, to be held March 23-24, 2019, at various locations in Northern California, brings together cheese enthusiasts for a weekend filled with cheese tastings, pairings, tours, seminars, a culinary competition, and cocktail and wine tastings. While the festival’s larger events like Cheese, Bites, & Booze! (where guests can nosh on tasty bites created by cheesemakers, chefs and cheesemongers’ and sip on regional artisan wines, ciders and spirits) and The Marketplace (where attendees are invited to taste, discover and purchase specialty items from over 100 artisan producers) are sure to appeal, it's the smaller events like the festival's Farm & Producer Tours and Seminars that provide festival goers intimate, immersive experiences with some of the most reputable and knowledgeable experts in the industry. 

The Festival’s 2019 Seminar Schedule is as follows:  

 Seminar 1: Red or White? Best Wines for the Cheeses You Love

Instructor: Janet Fletcher, author and educator

9:30 – 11 a.m.

$75 per person

Join the debate as to whether red or white wine is a better match for cheese with Planet Cheese publisher and educator extraordinaire, Janet Fletcher. Attendees will sample five cheeses alongside both a red and white wine while Janet shares some sensory research into wine and cheese pairings. 

Seminar 2: California Cheese: Old School to New School 

Instructor: Juliana Uruburu, cheese expert, Market Hall Foods

9:30 – 11 a.m.

$75 per person

California has a rich and dynamic history of cheesemaking. Juliana Uruburu leads guests on a tasting journey illuminating the connections between the Golden State’s storied old school and new school cheesemakers.

Seminar 3: Cheese, Beer & Cider

Instructor: Rachel Perez, American Cheese Society (ACS) Certified Cheese Professional®

1:30 – 3 p.m.

$75 per person

Unique beers and ciders are the pairing of choice for many cheesemongers as an alternative to wine. Rachel Perez guides attendees on a tasting journey demystifying the characteristics that make beer and cider so cheese-friendly. Guests will leave this session with a solid foundation of pairing principles and several foolproof beer, cider, and cheese pairings to try at home.

Seminar 4: A Taste of Cheese Science with The Cheese Twins

Instructors: Charlie & Michael Kalish, The Cheese Twins

1:30 – 3 p.m.

$75 per person

Having made cheese on more than a dozen dairy farms across Europe with some of the finest affineurs (professional cheese agers), Cheese Twins Charlie and Michael Kalish bring their savoir-faire home to California. This comparative tasting gives guests a crash course in the science behind cheesemaking and highlight how seemingly subtle shifts in pH, moisture, and aging result in staggeringly different cheeses. 

Seminar 5: Cheese & Cocktails: The Basics of Bitters, Booze & Cheese

Instructors: Vanessa Chang, American Cheese Society (ACS) Certified Cheese Professional® and Lassa Skinner, co-founder of Culture magazine

1:30 – 3 p.m.

$85 per person

Cheese mavens Vanessa Chang and Lassa Skinner demonstrate how a well-made cocktail can shake up preconceived notions of what goes with cheese. This dynamic duo will distill the basics of the various spirits, demystify the universe of bitters, and help identify cheeses to round out cocktails like Manhattans, Mai Tais. 

 

The Festival’s 2019 Farm & Producer Tours are as follows: 

Tour A: Point Reyes Farmstead & The Fork

9:15 a.m. – 3:45 p.m.

$150 per person

Attendees of this tour will spend a day at Giacomini Dairy to discover what makes Point Reyes so special. Visitors start their day with a tour of the farm, meet the cows and learn about the farm’s history. Following the tour, guests head to The Fork, Point Reyes Farmstead’s education and culinary center for a focused cheese tasting and end the day with a three-course lunch and cooking demo with Chef Matthew Accarrino of San Francisco’s Michelin-starred restaurant, SPQR.

Tour B: Pennyroyal Farm Tour

10:45 a.m. – 2:45 p.m.

$120 per person

Start your day with a guided walking tour at Pennyroyal creamery and vineyard to learn more about the integrative farming methods behind Pennyroyal’s handcrafted cheese and wine. Following the tour, enjoy a seasonal multi-course lunch prepared from the bounty of the kitchen garden as well as farmstead meat and cheese. Pennyroyal Farm cheesemaker Erika McKenzie-Chapter and It’s Not You, It’s Brie Author and Educator Kirstin Jackson will lead a delicious and instructive seminar that poses the question, “If it grows together, does it go together?” while leading a tasting that explores the cheeses, wine, beer, and cider of the Anderson Valley.  

Tour C: North Capitol Area Tour

8:30 a.m. – 3:30 p.m.

$150 per person

This tour explores the North Sacramento Valley cheesescape beginning with a tour of Pedrozo Dairy and Cheese Company, to meet Tim Pedrozo, a third-generation dairy farmer and self-proclaimed “accidental cheesemaker.” After Pedrozo, the tour will head to Orland Farmstead Creamery, followed by lunch and a talk with Rumiano Cheese Company, California’s oldest family-owned cheese company.

 Tour D: Hop to It! 

10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

$150 per person

The Santa Rosa area is home to an amazing community of talented brewers and delicious beers. This all-day tour starts at Russian River Brewing Co., crafters of legendary Pliny the Elder, with a cheese pairing from Beehive Cheese Co., followed by a stop at the Barrel Brothers Brewing Co. to taste hops and malts alongside chocolates by neighboring Volo Chocolates. Seismic Brewing Co. is the next stop on the tour to taste brews paired with cheese from a local cheesemaker and concludes with a visit to Old Possum Brewing Co., one of Santa Rosa’s newest breweries. 

Tour E: Farm Forward 

8:30 a.m. – 3:45 p.m.

$150 per person

This tour travels west of Petaluma to Toluma Farms, home to a herd of goats, a flock of sheep, and Tomales Farmstead Creamery. Guests will have the opportunity to tour the organic pastures, meet the goats and sheep, taste an array of cheeses, and enjoy an incredible brunch spread from Daily Driver SF, California’s newest creamery. The tour will continue with a stop at AppleGarden Farm to meet owner Jan Lee, learn about cider apples, and taste the fruits of their labor. The day concludes at Marin French Cheese, the country’s oldest continuously operating cheese company to taste their signature cheeses, including Brie and Camembert. 

Tour F: Dairy Divas 

8:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.

$150 per person

This tour begins at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station where attendees will taste their way through a flight of Cowgirl Creamery and witness a curd-making demonstration before heading over the hill to DeBernardi Dairy, home to Two Rock Valley Goat Cheese. Attendees will stop for lunch before heading to Achadinha Cheese Company where Jim and Donna Pacheco, with help from their four children, milk goats and make cheese inspired by their family legacy and the Old World traditions of Portugal. 

Tour G: Stars of Sebastopol – Sold Out

8:30 a.m. – 3:30 p.m.

$150 per person

Start the morning off at Wm. Cofield Cheesemakers, one of California’s newest creameries known for its fresh cheese curds, clothbound cheddar, and Stilton-esque blue cheese. Next, attendees will visit Bohemian Creamery and meet Lisa Gottreich, one of the region’s most creative artisan cheesemakers, followed by a stop at The Barlow where Chef Duskie Estes, a regular guest on the Food Network and self-professed cheese lover, will prepare a delicious multi-course lunch inspired by cheese and locally-sourced ingredients. The tour will conclude with a visit to Spirit Works Distillery for a guided tasting though its local spirits alongside pairings from Cypress Grove Cheese. 

Tour H: Local Legends

8:30 a.m. – 3:30 p.m.

$150 per person

Rise and shine at Nicasio Valley Cheese Company, California’s only organic farmstead creamery with a tour and tasting of its award-winning cheeses followed by a visit to Marin French Cheese, the country’s oldest continuously operating cheese company, which will celebrate its 154-year anniversary in 2019. Guests will continue on to Valley Ford Cheese & Creamery to enjoy a delicious cheese-focused lunch, tour and tasting of Valley Ford cheeses, crafted with milk from the family’s nearby herd of Jersey cows.

Tour I: The Milky Whey

8:30 a.m. – 3:30 p.m. 

$150 per person

Attendees start their morning outside Petaluma at the Pacheco Family Dairy for a tour of the farm while learning why the Pachecos transitioned from a traditional cow dairy to a goat dairy; complete with a tasting of the farmstead cheeses. Next, the tour will head to Nicasio Valley Cheese Company, California’s only organic farmstead creamery, to taste its award-winning cheeses that capture both the essence of this 1,150-acre family ranch and the legacy of the family’s Swiss-Italian heritage. Guests will stop along the way for lunch before heading to Lagunitas Brewing Company just in time for happy hour to taste a selection of their innovative local brews paired with cheeses from Sierra Nevada Cheese Company.

 ***Note: Bus transportation is provided by Pure Luxury Transportation for all tours except Tour B and Tour C (Tour B does not include transportation, Tour C transportation is provided by North Valley Shuttle.) Start and end times and tour departure pick-up and drop-off locations vary. All sales are final, and events takes place rain or shine. A more detailed list of the tour descriptions can be found at https://www.artisancheesefestival.com/tours.

Following the educational seminars and tours, guests can opt to end their day participating in Cheese, Bites & Booze!, Saturday night’s grand tasting event held inside the Jackson Family Wines Aircraft Hangar at Sonoma Jet Center. This delicious competition features cheesemakers, chefs and cheesemongers’ creating their “best bites” of California artisan cheesy goodness. Guests sample the amazing creations while sipping on regional artisan wines, ciders, spirits, and beers at this light-hearted walk-around tasting event. Tickets for Cheese, Bites & Booze! are $80 per person (21 and over only, no children will be admitted). 

 

Don't Miss The National Parks Plein Air Project by Petaluma Artist Mary Fassbinder January 29th through March 23rd at Petaluma Arts Center

Sixty plein air paintings of each of the U. S. National Parks are the product of an extraordinary 72,000 mile, 3 ½ year journey by Sonoma County artist and gallery owner Mary Fassbinder and the centerpiece of an exhibition at the Petaluma Arts Center opening late January, 2019.

“The National Parks Painting Project by Mary Fassbinder & Guest Artist Davis Perkins” exhibition will run from January 29th through March 23rd, with the public opening scheduled for Saturday, January 26th, 2019 at 5:00pm.

“This project forced me to push, crawl, climb –you name it, through my own set of obstacles and most importantly to trust the outcome,” Mary recalls of the many challenges she overcame.  “It truly was a rite of passage”

Mary Fassbinder feels more strongly than ever that, “this is a crucial time in the preservation and conservation of our national treasures. I sincerely hope these paintings will be an inspiration to generations to come.”

Joining Mary at the Petaluma Arts Center will be Davis Perkins, a California landscape painter with an exhibition featuring his landscape paintings from around the world.  Dave Perkins, who has had an exciting career as smokejumper, firefighter, and paramedic, received a degree in Fine Arts from the University of Oregon. In 2015 he was selected as a Signature Member of the Oil Painters of America.  He exhibits his work in galleries and other art venues in Northern California, while continuing his life of travel and public service.

California Artisan Cheese Festival Seminars, Tastings, Pairings, Farm Tours & Marketplace March 23rd & 24th, 2019

California’s premier cheese event, the California Artisan Cheese Festival, has announced the presenters for the Seminars to be held on Saturday, March 23, 2019.

Cheese enthusiasts who attend this beloved weekend festival will have the opportunity to experience new, limited-production, and rare artisan cheeses all while learning about the art of cheesemaking from some of the industry’s most knowledgeable experts through a variety of interactive seminars. Instructors include prominent cheese writer and author of Planet Cheese Janet Fletcher; renowned cheese expert Juliana Uruburu; American Cheese Society (ACS) Certified Cheese Professionals® Vanessa Chang and Rachel Perez; Cheese Twins and Food Network celebrities Charlie and Michael Kalish; and co-founder of Culture Magazine, Lassa Skinner. Topics range from pairing cheese with various cocktails to unique ciders and beers, to the science behind cheesemaking, and how old school and new school cheesemakers continue to shape and innovate the Golden State’s cheese industry. A full list of seminar descriptions can be found at www.artisancheesefestival.com/seminars. 

Beyond the seminars, the two-day festival includes cheese tastings, pairings, farm and producer tours, and a culinary competition, all of which are held at various locations in Sonoma and Marin Counties March 23-24, 2019. Tickets for events range from $25 to $150 per person and are available for purchase now by visiting www.artisancheesefestival.com. 

Other events and happenings taking place throughout the festival weekend include:

Saturday, March 23

Producer & Farm Tours

8:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.

Various Locations

$120 to $150 per person

These intimate Saturday tours to various local farms, creameries and artisan producers are some of the most popular and coveted events of the weekend, giving visitors a glimpse into the important role of the farmer and where cheese gets its start. Guests will be guided on behind-the-scenes tours where they can learn how cheese and other artisan products are made, meet the cheesemakers, farmers, and producers behind their favorite local products and, of course, taste the fruits of their labor. Most tours include round-trip transportation, cheese tastings, and lunch.

Participants include Achadinha Cheese Co., AppleGarden Farm, Bohemian Creamery, Cowgirl Creamery, Lagunitas Brewing Company, Marin French Cheese, Nicasio Valley Cheese, Old Possum Brewing, Orland Farmstead Creamery, Pedrozo Diary & Cheese, Pennyroyal Farm, Rumiano Cheese, Russian River Brewing Company, Seismic Brewing Co., Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese and The Fork, Tomales Farmstead Creamery, Two Rock Valley Goat Cheese, Valley Ford Cheese & Creamery, and Wm. Cofield Cheesemakers, among others. A full list of tour descriptions can be found at www.artisancheesefestival.com/tours. 

Cheese, Bites & Booze!

6 to 9 p.m.

JFW Hangar at the Sonoma County Airport, 
Flightline Drive, Santa Rosa

$80 per person

Following the educational seminars, demonstrations and tours, guests can opt to end their day participating in Saturday night’s grand tasting event held inside the Jackson Family Wines Aircraft Hangar located at the Sonoma County Airport. This delicious competition features cheesemakers, chefs and cheesemongers creating their “best bites” of California artisan cheesy goodness. Guests sample the amazing creations while sipping on regional artisan wines, ciders, spirits, and beers at this light-hearted walk-around tasting event. (21 and over only, no children will be admitted.)

Sunday, March 24

Bubbles & Brunch

9:30 to 11 a.m.

Saralee & Richard's Barn, Sonoma County Fairgrounds
1350 Bennett Valley Rd., Santa Rosa, CA

$125 per person

The early riser enjoys a delicious brunch and coveted advance entry into the Artisan Cheese Tasting and Marketplace. Enjoy a Sunday brunch celebrating cheese at every course while being entertained with a live cooking demonstration by Chefs and Owners Daniel Kedan and Marianna Gardenhire of Michelin Guide-awarded Backyard Restaurant in Forestville. Tickets include brunch, sparkling wine and early entry into the Artisan Cheese Tasting & Marketplace at 11 a.m. before opening to the public at 12 p.m.

Artisan Cheese Tasting & Marketplace

12 to 4 p.m.

Grace Pavilion, Sonoma County Fairgrounds
1350 Bennett Valley Rd., Santa Rosa, CA

$50 per person; $25 for children 12 and under

The grand finale of the festival, the Marketplace brings together more than 100 artisan producers of the best local cheese, wine, beer, ciders and other specialty foods. Guests are invited to taste, discover and buy new cheeses and the next wave of interesting cheese accompaniments, and artisan products that complement cheese. Tickets include admission, author book signings, the cherished Artisan Cheese Festival insulated cheese tote bag and a festival wine glass.

All ticket sales are final and all events will take place rain or shine. For more updates and details about the California Artisan Cheese Festival, or to purchase tickets, visit www.artisancheesefestival.com.  

Generous sponsors of the California Artisan Cheese Festival include American AgCredit, Beehive Cheese Company,  Central Coast Creamery, Culture Magazine, Donald  and Maureen Green Foundation, Ellipses Public Relations, Flamingo Conference Resort & Spa, Jackson Family Wines, John Boos, Lagunitas Brewing Company, Mike Hudson Distributing, Nicasio Valley Cheese Company, Oliver’s Markets, Pisenti & Brinker LLP, Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company, Pure Luxury Transportation, Real California Milk, Rumiano Cheese Company, Rustic Bakery, Seismic Brewing Company, Sierra Nevada Cheese Company, Sonoma County Tourism, Sonoma Jet Center, Tahoe Kitchen Co., Tomales Farmstead, and Visit Santa Rosa.

About California Artisan Cheese Festival

A 501 (c)(3) non-profit organization, the California Artisan Cheese Festival strives to increase cheese appreciation, educate consumers about artisan cheeses, support the cheesemaking community and its sustainability and celebrate the creations of California’s many farmers and cheesemakers. The festival began in March 2007 as the first-ever, weekend-long celebration and exploration of handcrafted cheeses, foods, wines and beers from California and beyond. In keeping with its dedication to the community, the Artisan Cheese Festival has donated more than $120,000 in grants to local nonprofit partners that support local sustainable agriculture including the California Artisan Cheese Guild, Sonoma Land Trust, Marin Agricultural Land Trust (MALT), the Redwood Empire Food Bank and the Petaluma Chapter of the Future Farmers of America. For more information about the California Artisan Cheese Festival , visit www.artisancheesefestival.com or follow them on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.

7TH ANNUAL BOTTLEROCK NAPA VALLEY MAY 24 - 26, 2019 Friday: Imagine Dragons and Logic Saturday: Neil Young + Promise of the Real and Pharrell Williams Sunday: Mumford & Sons and Santana

BottleRock Napa Valley 2019, presented by JaM Cellars has announced an impressive seventh annual festival lineup  which includes headline artists Mumford & Sons, Imagine Dragons, Neil Young + Promise of the Real, Pharrell Williams, Santana and Logic.  The three-day music, wine, food and craft brew festival will take place in the heart of the City of Napa at the Napa Valley Expo, May 24 - 26, 2019. 3-day festival passes go on sale at 10AM PST on Tuesday, January 8, 2019 at BottleRockNapaValley.com. Single-day passes will go on sale at 10AM PST on Thursday, January 10, 2019.

3-Day Festival Passes On Sale as of Tuesday, January 8, 2019, 10AM PST

Single-Day Festival Passes On Sale Thursday, January 10, 2019, 10AM PST

One of the most innovative and enjoyable festivals in the U.S., BottleRock Napa Valley features an unparalleled combination of the world’s biggest bands and artists alongside the hottest up-and-coming music acts. The BottleRock Napa Valley lineup, to date, includes:

Friday, May 24: Imagine Dragons, Logic, OneRepublic, Sylvan Esso, Flogging Molly, Jenny Lewis, AJR, Anderson East, The Dandy Warhols, lovelytheband, Paul Oakenfold (Silent Disco), Alec Benjamin, Neon Trees, Midland, Vintage Trouble, The War and Treaty, Just Loud, Shannon Shaw, flora cash, Yoke Lore, HalfNoise, The Dip,  Dessa, Liz Cooper & The Stampede, Valley Queen, Jack West, Forgotten Dreamers

Saturday, May 25: Neil Young + Promise of the Real, Pharrell Williams, Nathaniel Rateliff & The Night Sweats, Gary Clark Jr., Juanes, Cypress Hill, Elle King, Marian Hill, Sir Sly, Chevy Metal, Against Me!, Madison Beer, Pink Sweat$, Shannon & the Clams, The Regrettes, White Panda (Silent Disco), Elley Duhé, Wilderado, Magic City Hippies, Moonalice, We Banjo 3, Slothrust, Jared & The Mill, Royal Jelly Jive, Rebecca Jade & The Cold Fact, The Blue Stones, The Silverado Pickups, Napa Valley Youth Symphony

Sunday, May 26: Mumford & Sons, Santana, Tash Sultana, Lord Huron, Michael Franti & Spearhead, Big Boi, Citizen Cope, Bishop Briggs, Gang of Youths, Too $hort, Turkuaz, The Crystal Method (Silent Disco), Skylar Grey, Jeff Goldblum & The Mildred Snitzer Orchestra, Houses, Con Brio, The Soul Rebels, SHAED, Welles, The Teskey Brothers, Harry Hudson, Ocean Alley, Sweet Crude, John Craigie, Dustbowl Revival, Jes Frances, The Alive

"Each year we look at ways to improve the overall festival experience for our guests,” said Dave Graham from BottleRock Presents. “In addition to our incredible lineup, we continue to offer the best cuisine, wines, craft brew and spirits, all supported by the warm hospitality people expect when visiting the Napa Valley.”

 

3-DAY GENERAL ADMISSION PASS | $359

Anything but general, 3-day general admission passes provide all that BottleRock is known for: 80+ bands on five music stages plus celebrity and chef mashups on the culinary stage with great sight lines throughout the venue. Passes also include access to gourmet food from the Napa Valley’s finest chefs and restaurateurs, craft beer, specialty cocktails and dozens of wine cabanas where you can sip, savor and mingle with your favorite vintners making every festival-goer feel like a VIP. 3-day general admission pass holders also receive in-and-out privileges. Three days of world-class music combined with wine country living at its finest!

 

3-DAY SKYDECK | $1599

Skydeck pass holders have access to an exclusive, elevated viewing platform with unparalleled views of the main stage with spacious, shaded areas on the Skydeck located within the VIP village. Enjoy comfortable seating to see favorite musicians without leaving the Skydeck. Skydeck pass holders also receive all-inclusive beer, cocktails and wines at the Skydeck bars, and in-and-out privileges. There are a limited quantity of Skydeck passes.  

 

3-DAY SPG + AMERICAN EXPRESS VIP VIEWING SUITE PASS | $1599

Available exclusively to Starwood Preferred Guest® American Express Card Members, the SPG + American Express VIP Viewing Pass offers elevated and unobstructed views of the Main Stage and access to the VIP Village and all VIP viewing areas. Benefits include specially curated bites, signature dishes and wine tastings within the viewing suite. In addition, pass holders also enjoy all-inclusive beer, specialty cocktails, and wines at the Marriott VIP Viewing Suite bar, Chef and Sommelier meet-and-greets, and a special Marriott Rewards Member-only gift. Dedicated VIP entrance with in-and-out privileges to the festival and access to premium restrooms complete the package. Card Members must present their wristband and their Starwood Preferred Guest Credit Card from American Express in order to gain access to the event; each additional ticket holder in your party must present their wristband.  SPG + American Express VIP Viewing Suite passes are limited. Limited 4 tickets per Card Member, per day. Terms apply

In 2018, BottleRock Napa Valley welcomed more than 120,000 music, food and wine fans during its sixth annual installment in historic downtown Napa. The sold-out 2018 festival featured Bruno Mars, The Killers, Muse and more. BottleRock Napa Valley also presents its legendary Williams-Sonoma Culinary Stage, showcasing a unique mashup of cooking demonstrations with renowned chefs, celebrities, performers and rock stars. Details on the 2019 culinary stage will be announced at a later date.

What's On at The Petaluma Arts Center This December . . .

Back by popular demand at Petaluma Arts Center is the Members Exhibition & holiday art sale, opening Saturday December 8th with a public reception from 5.30 pm to 7.30 pm. Stop by for a browse and pick out a piece or two for gifts that support both artist and art center. 

There has been a lot of buzz in the news this year with regards to the trials and tribulations of our much loved local Arts Center, it's great to see members rallying to stage this favorite of exhibitions during the holiday season. Let's hope that with everyone's support, the Arts Center may launch into 2019 with new energy and options and possibilities. 

Please note, the center is closed Sundays and Mondays (and holidays). If you can't make the opening, pop in Tues through Saturday from 11 am to 5 pm.

Another annual highlight at the Arts Center, back by equally popular demand, the Petaluma Readers Theater presents a  “A Christmas Memory” and “A Child's Christmas in Wales"  — Friday evening, Dec 21st 7 pm to 9 pm. This is a treat for the whole family. Click here to register.

Red Barn Studios Holiday Sale — Dec 8th & 9th

Rain or Shine — Windrush Farm Holiday Art Sale November 25th & December 2nd

A Visit to the Campatelli Tower House in the Historic Center of San Gimignano, Tuscany

One of the highlights of my recent trip to Italy was a tour of The Campatelli tower-house, an 18th century palazzo that encompasses one of the famous towers of the Tuscan town of San Gimignano that was the Manhattan of its day! The construction of the original property – the Medieval tower – dates from mid-12th century: a typical tower-house on the Pisan model, initially around 36 feet in height and was then raised up to reach the almost 92 feet we see today.

Photos unless otherwise noted: Timo Rivetti 

'San Gimignano delle belle Torri' is located about 35 miles south of Florence, serving as an important relay point for pilgrims traveling to or from Rome on the Via Francigena.

The patrician families that first controlled the town constructed some 72 tower-houses as symbols of their wealth and power. Although only 14 survived time and architectural fashions, San Gimignano retains its striking feudal atmosphere and appearance, today, housing many masterpieces of 14th- and 15th-century Italian art.

According to UNESCO and its status as a World Heritage Center, the town grew around two principal squares: the triangular Piazza della Cisterna, ornamented with a lovely central well, and the Piazza Duomo, dating from the late 13th century with its more intricate layout containing the majority of public and private monuments. After 1353, the town went into a period of decline due to waves of famine and plague that caused a drastic decrease in population. Within a hundred years, the town was downgraded to the level of the other lands under the Florentine control. This status, however, prevented the town from the urban renewal that transformed many Italian historical towns after the Middle Ages.

 

Photo: UNESCO

The height of the towers grew to display the power of the local families, but in certain cases, such as this one in the Campatelli home, the towers served as actual residences, with the rooms arranged vertically on wooden floors that have today been partially reconstructed.

Over the centuries, various adjacent constructions were added to this tower and by the middle of the 18th century the building resembled a typical palazzo with a Florentine-style intonaco facade. 

It was during the early 19th century, that the Campatellis, a landowning family of entrepreneurs, acquired the entire building, transforming it into a traditional upper-middle-class Tuscan house, in which they managed their affairs and income from the lands the family owned just outside the town.

Tourism numbers were blessedly dwindling by my late October visit and so we pretty much had the tour of the house to ourselves. I learned that in 2005, Lydia Campatelli, the last owner of the property, donated the Campatelli Tower-House to Fondo Ambiente Italiano FAI – the National Trust for Italy on condition that it be opened up to the public, together with its furnishings and collections, including pictures by the famous Florentine artist Guido Peyron (1898-1960), Lydia’s eclectic uncle.

Today, the Campatelli Tower-House offers a rich, multi-faceted visitor experience, featuring fascinating content and immersive screenings. There is little to beat walking round a National Trust property to soak in the true flavor and spirit of the lives that real people lived in these specially preserved places. The velvets and bed linens and silk seat coverings, writing desks, book cases, rugs and personal accoutrements of the middle class tell a different story to the grand palaces and the peasant farmhouses more often depicted in our idea of old Italy. 

The visit began the attic spaces and the Tower, where we took in a screening of A Thousand Years in San Gimignano, bringing the walls of the house to life beside an alabaster model of the town.

The piano nobile, on the top floor has been remodeled to resemble the way it would have looked in the late 19th century, with original furnishings and objects d’art from Lydia's family, paintings, documents, decorative pieces and photographs collected by the donor, depicting her family life, as well as the more general lifestyle of a typical upper-middle-class Tuscan family of the time.

It was intriguing to hear how the town grew around two principal squares: the triangular Piazza della Cisterna, ornamented with a lovely central well, and the Piazza Duomo, dating from the late 13th century with its more intricate layout containing the majority of public and private monuments. After 1353, the town went into a period of decline due to waves of famine and plague that caused a drastic decrease in population. Within a hundred years, the town was downgraded to the level of the other lands under the Florentine control. This status proved to be a good thing as it prevented the town from the urban renewal that transformed many Italian historical towns after the Middle Ages.

The FAI International project promotes love for Italy at home and overseas through a large and enthusiastic network of activities, events, workshops and concerts as well as protected properties throughout the country.

If you are planning travel to Italy, do look into visiting an FAI property. 

 

 

 

 

The Camino Experience — Modern Day Pilgrim's Travel Demystified

It seems a whole lot of people I've been talking to this fall are beginning to plan their 2019 adventures, if not already booked for exciting expeditions out in the big, beautiful wide world.

Several friends have already or are thinking of experiencing the true culture of their destination through hiking trails, authentic towns, villages and countryside, via various portions of the The Camino de Santiago (the Way of St. James) — a large network of ancient pilgrim routes stretching across Europe and coming together at the tomb of St. James (Santiago in Spanish) in Santiago de Compostela in north-west Spain.

During my recent trip to Italy I came across walking groups on the epic Canterbury to Rome pilgrim route, the Via Francigena in Tuscany. This sparked my interest in looking into pilgrim walks options for future travel. 

Award winning Irish-based CaminoWays.Com has some great walking tours & tips on offer for all things Camino culture, including walks in Southern Portugal, Ireland and Italy. 

FIRST CAMINO

If this is your first time on the Camino and you are looking for ‘the Camino’ experience, according to this particular tour provider, the Camino Frances is the way to go. This is the route that features in many famous movies such as The Way and I’ll Push You.

The good news is that you don’t have to walk for a full month if you don’t want to, you can start at any stage along the way. It is worth keeping in mind though that you will have to cover at least the last 100kms (63 miles) in order to get your Compostela pilgrims certificate in the Pilgrims Office in Santiago.

Details: 6 nights from €512 – Camino Frances Last 100km

SCENIC COAST

The beauty of the Atlantic is the pilgrim’s travel companion along the Portuguese Coastal Camino from Porto. This route is relatively flat and a little kinder on the legs for beginners. This also makes it the perfect route for cycling.

The full Portuguese Coastal Camino takes two weeks to complete. The journey begins in the gorgeous and colorful city of Porto.  Experience a mix of Portuguese and Spanish culture as you cross the border on your way to Santiago de Compostela. Delicious seafood, sandy beaches and lush landscapes await.

Details: 1 week from €597 – Portuguese Coastal Camino

CAMINO FANS

Once you discover the magic of the Camino it is easy to get ‘addicted’ to the trails. In fact, many pilgrims return each year to walk or cycle different routes. There are many trails available to the seasoned Camino fan.

For those looking to discover the Camino trails in France, the Le Puy Camino is one of the most traditional ‘Chemins de St Jacques’. Picturesque historic towns such as Conques, Le Puy en Velay or Cahors, as well as peaceful rural tracks, make it a Camino to remember.

Details: 1 week from €492 – Le Puy Camino 

OFF GRID

Is it peace and tranquillity you are looking for on your Camino? It’s time to switch off your phone and visit the Camino de Invierno! This is a path less travelled and offers time for quiet reflection in nature. This is a beautiful route, with plenty to see. Romanesque churches are dotted throughout the region You are surrounded by gorgeous wine courtesy of the vineyards in the Ribeira Sacra Valley.

Details: 7 nights from €588 – Camino de Invierno

IN GREAT COMPANY

Those looking to meet people and travel with a group should join one of the group's guided tours. Share your Camino experience with new friends. You will be looked after from the moment you arrive, an expert guide will be with you every step of the way.

Details: Caminoways Guided Tour Schedule

WALK AND COACH TOURS

Camino Walk and Coach tours are ideal for Camino beginners, a perfect introduction to the uniqueness of the Way of St James. Each day includes an easy 1 and a half to 2-hour walk in some of the most scenic regions on the Camino.

Details: 7 nights from €1103 – Walk and Coach

CAMINO AND BEYOND

More wonderful hiking routes throughout Europe:

The Rota Vicentina (Fishermen’s Trail) is a magnificent coastal trail taking walkers along the shores of the Atlantic Ocean in a region of spectacular beauty in Southern Portugal.
Details: Rota Vincentina

Ireland is the perfect location for hiking. Unspoiled green countryside, cosy local towns and the famous Irish welcome are some of the treats on offer.
Details: Hiking in Ireland

Starting in Canterbury, the Via Francigena is a spectacular and epic pilgrim trail dating back to the Middle Ages. Walking in Tuscany is one of the undoubted highlights.
Details: Via Francigena in Tuscany

For more information on any of these walking or cycling tours  contact the travel specialists.

 

Venice Under Water

Photos - pre-flood, by Sunny Hill Man

“The experts are right, he thought. Venice is sinking. The whole city is slowly dying. One day the tourists will travel here by boat to peer down into the waters, and they will see pillars and columns and marble far, far beneath them, slime and mud uncovering for brief moments a lost underworld of stone. Their heels made a ringing sound on the pavement and the rain splashed from the gutterings above. A fine ending to an evening that had started with brave hope, with innocence. ("Don't Look Now")” — Daphne Du Maurier 

After visiting in person for the first time, this October, it was shocking to arrive home and see news reports of approximately three-quarters of the historic Italian city of Venice submerged this week due to high tides and heavy storms that have led to the death of at least 11 people in the area.Venice's iconic St. Mark's Square was closed as tourists attempted to make way over raised walkways, some having to be rescued.

Restaurateurs and shopkeepers bailed out their business to keep from closing. We enjoyed two fantastic Venetian regional fish suppers during our brief stay, I can only imagine the experience of dining in rainboots would intensify those strong, salty flavors. 

To spend time in Venice is to try to absorb the haunting beauty of the place that Truman Capote famously described as: "Like eating an entire box of chocolate liqueurs in one go.”  

Experts claim the flooding is the worst that Venice has seen in a decade, reaching a high-water mark of 5.1 feet (1.5 meters), the fourth highest ever recorded.

The City of Water, Venice faces long term and catastrophic threats to its survival given the degree of climate change and rising sea levels. This low-lying marvel of an historic city is considered the unwitting poster child for cultural heritage and people at risk. Experts warn that the Mediterranean Sea basin may rise by five feet by the end of the century, placing the city in jeopardy of being flooded twice each day. Currently, Venice is victim to heavy flooding around four times each year.

Around half of Italy was impacted by the extreme weather this week and it is reported that over 5,800 firefighters have been activated to answer more than 7,000 emergency rescue calls across the country. 

According to National Geographic: "The city's leaders have seen the rising water for some time and have been working on an ambitious defense plan. But corruption is widely alleged to have slowed the process. Called MOSE (MOdulo Sperimentale Elettromeccanico), the project is an acronym for a system of walls meant to protect the city and lagoon from the sea. The system is based on decades-old technology, and not all scientists and engineers are convinced it will save the city in the long run, even when it's completed. It may be a losing battle, they warn."

National Geographic previously reported: “Italian magistrates discovered that while the initial cost has been predicted at something like two billion euros, more than 6.5 billion have now been spent, at least two billion of which was spent on corruption.” Investigations have led to arrest and imprisonment of city and regional officials. Although some long-term residents have been moving out of Venice, tired of rising waters and rents driven up by international tourists, others argue that the city is too precious to give up on.

For its own sake it’s important that Venice doesn’t die,” historian and author Salvatore Settis told National Geographic. “It’s too important to let it die. Venice should be preserved not just for Venetians but for all humanity."

Fortune Magazine reports that if and when the flood plan project is finally completed and fully operational, flood gates will go up once the tide reaches 110 centimeters, or roughly 43 inches. "That won’t keep water out of low-lying areas often flooded already, such as St. Mark’s Square, but it should protect much of Venice from flooding for roughly the next three decades, depending on how quickly sea level rises between now and then."

Governor for Veneto, Luca Zaia, has said flooding this week may reach the levels of the 1966 flood that engulfed Venice and Florence back when storms such as these were considered more of an anomaly. These days, however, they are unfortunately, way more common and more perilous —than ever before.

“Venice, it's temples and palaces did seem like fabrics of enchantment piled to heaven.” — Percy Shelley