It was embarrassing to admit to have never visited Palm Springs in the 32 years I've lived in California. No excuses other than life has been generally very busy and has taken me in every direction other than the desert. Until this February. I finally made my first visit. And it won't be my last.
Let's just say I was fairly well smitten.
The dry heat (90 degrees mid Feb), the mountains, the friendly, casual atmosphere and relaxed pace coupled with the movie-set architecture and history made for the most pleasing few days. I mean, what's not to like?
Palm Springs has the largest concentration of modern residential architecture in the world, showcased annually in its February Modernism Week Celebration. I visited the week before, which was probably good timing, crowd-wise, though I wish I'd had the chance to tour inside some of the most iconic homes and estates.
We stayed at the Kimpton Rowan in the heart of revitalized downtown Palm Springs and we were delighted to take advantage of a complimentary cruiser bike in the morning hours over a couple of days to cycle through many of the most interesting neighborhoods.
There are just under 50,000 permanent residents of Palm Springs, which makes it sound smaller than it is given the amount of visitors in the more temperate months. The cool season lasts for 3.2 months, from late November to late February, with an average daily high temperature below 75°F. Though it was in the 90s during our February stay this year. The coldest month of the year in Palm Springs is December, with an average low of 46°F and high of 69°F. From early June to October, summers are sweltering, arid, and mostly clear with temperatures reaching 113 F. Ninety degrees is enough for me.
It’s typical for someone in Palm Springs to give you the following directions: “Keep going on Gene Autry, turn left on Dinah Shore and take a right on Bob Hope.” The desert has a preponderance of street names honoring various celebrities who have made the desert home.
Palm Spring is home to the Cahuilla people, who speak Ivilyuat, a dialect of the Uto-Aztecan language family. It's easy in places to see the oasis that was their's and their's only and completely unspoiled for some 2,000 years.
We took an evening hike on the rocky Museum Trail into the mountains where I took this shot and I tried to picture the area as it would have been for all those thousands of years. Desert Hot Springs is home to one of the greatest mineral water aquifers in the world. The water is naturally heated to temperatures as high as 180 degrees.
Not surprisingly, The Cahuilla name for Palm Springs was Se-Khi (boiling water).
Image - Walter Ufer — A Yearling 1929 Palm Springs Art Museum
Spanish explorers passed through from the 1770s and called the Palm Springs area, La Palma de la Mano de Dios (The Palm of God’s Hand).
The United States government established the Agua Caliente Reservation over 31,128 acres in a checkerboard format of alternating sections of 640 acres in 1876. These alternating non-reservation sections were granted to the Southern Pacific Railroad as an incentive to bring rail lines through the Sonoran desert.
This checkerboard format includes modern downtown Palm Springs and as a consequence of this geography, the Agua Caliente is reputedly now one of the wealthiest tribes in the country. In fact, the land beneath many of the homes or condos in Palm Springs is subsequently leased.
Fortunately, back in 1959, The Agua Caliente secured the right for its members to lease land for 99 years at a time.
Image —George Brandriff Palm Springs Indian Reservation 1920 — Palm Springs Art Museum
I stopped in at the original home of the family considered to be the first non-native people to settle the area — the McCallum Adobe a small museum with friendly staff on downtown Palm Canyon Drive. John Guthrie McCallum, son of an industrious Scottish farmer, a 57-year-old San Francisco editor, pioneer lawyer and Indian agent to the Mission Indians, was led to the hot springs that gushed from the desert.
According to Palm Springs Life early history article: "Unlike other pioneers of the early West, McCallum's move to the desert was not motivated by a burning quest for the frontier, or by a lust for gold. . . he was motivated to move to the desert by the practical demands of fatherhood. McCallum thought that the climate would heal his tubercular son Johnny, and with that thought he sowed the seed for Palm Springs' future as a health spa".
With high hopes he moved to the area with his entire family: wife Emily, sons Harry, Wallace and Johnny and daughters May and Pearl.
"He came not as a conquering white as so many others had come to Indian Territory; he came as a friend of the Indians after having quit his commission as Indian agent in San Bernardino".
"Historically, one cannot separate the desert from the Indians or the Indians from the desert," his daughter Pearl wrote. "And my father, a friendly man, loved both … The Indians trusted him for he knew them intimately, their traits and their problems … Many say that our Indians were never more happy and healthy than under my father's administration …"
Still, In a 1990 census there were only 35 people in Palm Springs who could still speak the language and tribal enrollment as of 2010 was 410 people. The Smallpox epidemic of 1862 tragically felled many of the region's first people who had been exposed to the disease by non-natives passing through via a stagecoach station on the early overland trail.
By the early 1900s Palm Springs had begun to establish itself as the destination it is today. Like the McCallums, many of its early residents were drawn to a climate that was beneficial to their health, particularly if infected with tuberculosis. In the 1930s, Palm Springs was the desert getaway for Hollywood stars (almost a couple decades prior to Las Vegas establishing itself as a destination).
Palm Springs is located just 107 miles from Los Angeles and its celebrity gossip columnists of the 1930s. This beautiful desert sanctuary became a safe haven for stars to live their private lives out of the glare of the public eye. Reporters working for pennies were typically reimbursed for travel expenses, but super conveniently for the stars who could afford a second home, only up to 100 miles.
Similarly, Old Hollywood movie studios implemented a two-hour rule, which stated that actors must remain within two hours of the studio.
And although Palm Springs is lauded as the Golf Capital of the World, it was the Palm Springs Racquet Club and the Palm Springs Tennis Club that first put it on the sporting map in 1934. Film Actors Ralph Bellamy and Charlie Farrell purchased a large parcel of land and developed the Palm Springs Racquet Club, inviting their fellow Hollywood luminaries of the time such as Bing Crosby, Jimmy Durante, Spencer Tracy, John Wayne, Errol Flynn, Robert Wagner, Frank Sinatra, Mary Pickford, Douglas Fairbanks and Bob Hope to join them.
Today, their names and hundreds of other celebrities who arrived in the decades to follow are enshrined on the Palm Springs Walk of Stars.
Long before the advent of Hollywood stars came flocking to the area, in the hot summer months when the temperatures soar, the early Cahuilla people trekked to a considerably higher elevation of some 2,700 feet at the Chino Canyon's Valley Floor. They also spent summers in the other canyons at the south end of Palm Springs, Tahquitz, Andreas, Murray and Palm Canyons.
Today it is possible to traverse the full 8,500 feet above sea water at the far cooler top of Chino Canyon, which is far more easily accessible by the Palm Springs Aerial TRAM.
The tram journey up with a group of friends was exciting. It took us from the floor of the Coachella Valley all the way up to San Jacinto Peak in under ten minutes. Unfortunately our plan for a good hike at the top was somewhat thwarted by the amount of snow and ice on the trails. Sneakers did not cut it. Although we tried our best to navigate a route, when we spotted families sledding, we figured out that it was best to save a long trek for a less slippery season.
If you go, do click here to book ahead and pre-book the restaurant up top, too.
I prefer cultural pursuits to golf and so the Palm Springs Art Museum and its exquisite collection was one of my must-visits on this first trip. I could see it from our bedroom window.
Marilyn's Morning Shower — Photo Frances Rivetti
Where to eat? Restaurants in the Palm Springs area have it down with regards to open air seating in the warm desert air. We didn't go too crazy with big-shot meals on this trip, taking in the general scene and scoping out hot spots for future visits instead. Reservations are a good idea and for the popular places that don't take them, expect a long line.
However, we did enjoy a lovely lunch at French-style Farm and another at Sherman's Deli.
If you're going, here's a good selection of top spots to check out.
And don't forget the famous Date Shakes! The Coachella Valley produces more fresh dates than anywhere else in the United States. I'm not a fan of anything too sweet but I do like a fresh fig on occasion and enjoyed a delicious bacon wrapped date at the event we went on to after our first few days in town. Farmers Markets are filled with fruit from the valley and at great prices too.
My main question (as a non-golfer) upon learning there are 124 irrigated golf courses in the part of the Coachella Valley that is often referred to as the Palm Springs area, east of Los Angeles, many with lakes, in an otherwise parched landscape was: how?
Picture the greatest concentration of golf courses in the world, carpeting the desert in a sea of green, during an ongoing drought.
The Coachella Valley has less than one percent of Southern California's population, yet it has approximately 28 percent of its golf courses. The golf industry statewide uses less than one percent of the water, yet in the Coachella Valley, courses use 24 percent of the area water consumption.
"The drought has almost no impact on the Coachella Valley," According to Craig Kessler, director of governmental affairs for the Southern California Golf Association, in an interview with Golf Digest. "Short term, unlike other places in California, there's a negligible impact," Kessler said. "However, there is a long-range concern."
My friend and former editor at the Petaluma Argus Courier, Chris Samson grew up in Palm Springs. His dad, Herbert Samson, a native of Canada, emigrated to Palm Springs in 1927 and lived there until he passed, in 1974. He served as president of the Desert Water Agency amongst other key community roles. Chris shared this article with family members who believe their father would have disagreed with Kessler's statement. The formerly massive underground aquifers, won't last forever.
However, courses are working closely with the Coachella Valley Water District on ways to conserve, its communications director Heather Engel said, in the same article, including a goal of a 10 percent reduction in water use by 2020. It's good to hear that the golf industry is being pro-active, with native areas replacing irrigated rough on some courses. "Instead of 140 irrigated acres, wall-to-wall green, you'll start to see a little more of the desert look for the golf courses," Kessler said. "I think you're going to see that creep into the courses."
"As a whole, the golf industry is very conscientious about water use in Coachella Valley," she said. And, if golf goes away, so does most of the economy in the area.
There are lots of super fun and stylish hotels to stay at in Palm Springs. This selection Time Out has picked to highlight offer an eclectic range. I would certainly stay at the Kimpton again, but I did like the look of the Movie Colony vintage style hotels and would consider one of them for a future visit. The Uptown shopping district is a haven for mid-Century home design and boutique buys, though I don't shop much when I'm traveling with my husband. Still, the window shopping is great!
Next time I plan on visiting Joshua Tree, taking an estate tour or two, hiking more and maybe horse riding in the region. So much to do and see. I recommend if you're a newbie visitor like me that you plan out a rough itinerary according to your group needs before setting out.
According to Realtor.com, the average home price in Jan 2022 in Palm Springs' 40 neighborhoods was $697,000 – that's a couple hundred thousand dollars less than the median home price in my home town of Petaluma currently. I can see why Palm Springs appeals for retirement plans, though if I were ever to consider that I'd have to keep a second home by the breezy coast for those summer months!