"First time I set eyes on the Victorian riverfront city of Petaluma was from the misty coastal west, driving into historic downtown via quaint and charming D Street, its well preserved Queen Anne and craftsman homes a classic Kinkaid picture of Hometown Americana come to life. As I remember it, that weekend evening, Petaluma struck me as the kind of town its people must like to come home to — the kind of place where families gather at the table come evening time and neighbors chat on the porch. I didn't know it at the time, but I'd been chasing my muse in the American West and I'd found it. I can see cows, I'd declared, when a move to this rural community became a possibility." — quote from my first book, Fog Valley Crush, Love at First Bite, At Home in the California Farmstead Frontier, 2014
I'd written a column in the Petaluma Argus Courier for five years, from 2010 to 2015 prior to producing my first non-fiction book — traveling the backroads of the south county with my notebook in hand, frequently reporting on the boom of the Farm to Table Movement in the region and the evolution from traditional farming to organic. It was all about survival of the fittest for our rural farms, who could pivot to organic, to cheesemaking, to keeping a hold of their multigenerational land. And, as an immigrant myself, I fell in love with the pioneer spirit that infused the people that steward these lands, day in day out, year after year, decade after decade. They don't get to take a day off when it rains too hard, or their back aches. It's hard, physical labor out there and a strong sense of connectedness with mother nature as well as the neighbors, even if they're a mile down the road.
Fog Valley Crush was the first of two food history and pioneer culture books on the region, which I followed up with two novels, also set against our regional backdrop. I'd say I'm as drawn to the storied farming culture as I am in sitting down at my kitchen table with family and friends, enjoying the bounty of our extended backyard. Every decade there's a new direction. But I, like so many in the area, didn't quite see this one coming, at least not in the form that is presenting itself in Sonoma County in the run up to November's election.
Our local, regenerative farms are some of the smallest in the nation. They are renowned for leading the way in sequestering carbon, while striving for the highest animal welfare standards around. We've taken for granted, I guess, that we live in a picture-postcard agricultural haven and that our ranchers and farmers have been largely left in peace for over a century and a half as stewards of the green and seasonally alternatively golden, rolling pasturelands that stretch out to the coast.
This idyilic landscape is under threat. No one is entirely sure why Sonoma County has been targeted, but it's being seen by many as a potential 'foot-in-the-door' for eradicating the future of this country's commercially viable animal product farming.
In direct response, Sonoma County's Communities for Food & Family Farms has emerged in the Petaluma area with one simple goal: To unite our local community to stand behind our farmers, knowing that Sonoma County farmers farm with compassion for animals, stewardship for the environment and a commitment to provide quality local food for all. This particular group joins a movement throughout the county, including the official website for No on J as well as Sonoma United and Sonoma Food No on J.
It's time for us to pay attention to what is happening on our doorstep. And so I took a seat at at a community town hall out in the heart of the matter, notebook once again in hand.
When Albert Straus, founder of globally-respected Straus Family Creamery stands in front of a crowd of farmers, restaurateurs, foodies and concerned community members and says that his company would fold if a controversial measure on the upcoming Sonoma County November election ballot was to pass, let me tell you, each and every person in that barn, positioned out on the edge of rural Petaluma, sat up ramrod straight and listened.
My fridge is never without a respectable stock of Straus butter and Straus Greek Yogurt. Best of the West. I'm loyal and I love it. There are plenty of decent alternatives out there, but the fact that they've been trucked from far flung corners of the country negates for me any benefits in cost cutting and quality. Carbon footprint and all, not to mention that several Straus dairy products come in returnable glass bottles which are in due turn, sanitized and reused. I don't need to preach to the converted. If you're local, chances are you know how great this trailblazing creamery is.
Albert Straus believes that the orchestrators of Measure J are fixated on big as bad because there's so much manure. Talking points that one of the country's leading organic dairymen disputes wholeheartedly. "It goes right to the core of who we are," he declared, explaining how animal welfare is a core tenet of organic farming. "Our high quality producers, we've built a carbon neutral dairy farm model that is being used as an example for the world."
Forty-two percent of the milk in California is from Sonoma County. California dairies outside of our county have up to 2,300 cows on their land. The largest in our county is less than a third of that size and are pasture raised. There are eight dairies in Sonoma County with over 700 cows today and these farmers are leading the way with farmed animal welfare, compliant water quality and green energy, using manure to power the operation.
Straus explained how: ""We would lose up to 30% of our milk supply which would put us out of business." Large scale industrial farms outside of the county would be given an unfair advantage.
Simple as that. Straus spoke of the dwindling rural population and number of children in rural schools. "We are losing our rural communities," he said.
Dairy farmer Sam Dolcini said: "The end goal of this measure is to control your diet." Others spoke of venture capitalism invested in vegan diets. This was a barn full of innovators who explain to the world how to create food systems that are more resilient. During COVID many of these dairies provided free or reduced cost milk for local families. If there's another major crisis, we must protect our regional food supply.
Elisa Weber, owner of Petaluma's iconic Della Fattoria, said: "I believe strongly that they're trying to seed their nasty spot in the finest food place in the nation. We need to rekindle our relationship with local food. It's our place on the world's stage. If they cut off our food supply, that hits Marin and San Francisco, who also eat Sonoma County food. I've had hundreds of conversations with people from all walks of life and we've yet to figure out why they are doing this here."
Della Fattoria Cafe in downtown Petaluma showcases the best of Sonoma County foods and produce.
Elise's husband, David Yunker added: "People don't realize just how horrible this is going to be if this goes through. We're going to see a collapse of our local food chain change the entire tapestry of how we live our life."
He and several other speakers addressed the many thousands of ungrazed acres that would lead to enormous fire hazard. "Meanwhile, we'll be living off packaged foods from who knows where."
Fifth generation Shelina Moreda is no shrinking violet when it comes to public speakingon behalf of her family's heritage dairy. Shelina is a decorated motorcycle racer and covergirl, who has rescued hundreds of animals in numerous wildfires.
"These people are not running out there to rescue animals in wildfires," she said. "Most people don't know what's going on here. We have to call each other whenever a drone flies over. What's going to happen in those hills when the cows are gone?"
The subject of land grabs was raised, with the potential for parceling off ranches and development.
Who is behind Yes on Measure J?
A group called The Coalition to End Factory Farming is composed of numerous animal advocacy, environmental, and social justice organizations including Compassionate Bay, FACES (Farm Animal Climate and Environmental Stewards) of Sonoma County, and Direct Action Everywhere - SF Bay Area.
Small and large local farm families are terrified of this group's threat to their historic ranchlands. Not all ranchers are running multigenerational enterprises. Many are new, first generation farmers who firmly believe that they will have no access to farm materials and feed or large animal vererinary services should the larger farms be shut down. This in turn will destroy their ability to survive in the dwindling farming industry.
Many who spoke at the Communities for Food & Family Farms Town Hall presentation said they are sickened by the prospect of being victimized by flash mob bus loads of protestors being dropped off at their ranches and storming their properties. One concerned rancher spoke of all the children living on the ranches that have been intimidated by this method. Others are resigned for more to follow, saying that they are fully transparent about their farming operations and have nothing to hide.
"We're just trying to save our farms. What they were looking for bringing in 400 people was the aggressive reaction of the traditional Billy Bob farmer," said fourth generation poultry farmer Mike Weber, whose Petaluma Weber Family Eggs production facility was stormed by activists in the past. "Instead, we are committed to being the most reasonable, meeting animal welfare, organic and environmental standards and exceeding them."
Weber's farm is the first in the state to produce large volumes of organic fertilizer used in turn by Community Supported Agriculture programs (CSAs) and small, organic farms throughout the region.
"For every farm job that is lost there's a corresponding job lost in the industry," he said.
Sonoma County Farm Trails on its OPPOSITION to the proposed local ballot Measure J: "We join in the Sonoma County Family Farms Alliance effort and the “No on Measure J” campaign in urging our friends and members to consider helping to defeat this misguided measure that will be detrimental to our local farming community and economy.
Measure J targets Sonoma County family-owned farms that have been producing fresh, nutritious, and sustainable food for over 100 years. Measure J will devastate local food production, which would make our region more dependent on out-of-area production—driving up food costs and limiting food security—especially during major disasters. It would lead to higher greenhouse gas emissions for food transportation far from source, and put our county at a disadvantage for preserving open working landscapes.
Petaluma City Council members unanimously denounced the measure at a meeting this July, urging all Sonoma County voters to vote NO to J on the Nov 5th ballot. According to City staff, the measure could potentially shut down at least six dairies and 16 poultry farms in the Petaluma area alone.
During their May 14th meeting, the Sonoma County Board of Supervisors heard a presentation from Sonoma County staff, including the Sonoma County University of California Cooperative Extension and the Sonoma County Agriculture Commissioner, quantifying the enormous economic damage that this measure would cost our local economy. The report acknowledged $259 million in locally produced agricultural products would be lost. In addition, a study by the Agribusiness Institute at Cal State Chico expected a $121 million hit on affiliated businesses, such as veterinarians and animal feed providers, as well as tourism. The report also noted a $38 million reduction in consumer spending attributable to jobs lost because of Measure J. This measure would limit jobs and limit the amount of local ethically grown and raised food in our shared community
Coalition to End Factory Farming is using this ballot measure process in Sonoma County to attempt to directly pass legislation to shut down the federal definition of Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations (otherwise dubbed Factory Farms), of which there are around 21 in Sonoma County. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) defines CAFOs based on their risk of water pollution. All farms in Sonoma County, large and small must adhere to the strictest of current EPA standards. And if a dairy for instance, grazes 700 acres, its 700 mature dairy cows should be considered relative a herd to the space in question. The Coalition to End Factory Farming claims that the regulatory authorities are failing to protect animals, the environment and public health. It is the coalition's belief that many of the larger farms in Sonoma County are hiding behind their bucolic marketing.
When asked what will happen to small, local family farms if Measure J passes in November, the Yes on Measure J website quotes in its frequently asked questions section: "In fact, it would help small, local family farms. This ordinance would only prohibit industrialized factory farms that confine large numbers of animals, for example, farms with 82,000 or more egg-laying chickens, 2,500 or more pigs, or 700 or more cows, or farms that have been identified as significant contributors of pollutants. These massive factory farms often hurt small family farms. Small family farms cannot compete with industrial farming because factory farms externalize their costs onto animals, society, and the environment. This ordinance will help restore the local diverse agriculture that existed in Sonoma County before the factory farms moved in."
But according to most small local farmers this is absolutely not the case and small family farms in the county will likely be eradicated along with the larger farms if this measure goes through.
Bronte Edwards, Founder, Rancher of Rainbow Family Ranching Co is an impassioned, highly vocal supporter of farms of all sizes in the region. "This group has taken adventage of our community," she said. "It is pure malarkey."
Sonoma County Supervisor Lynda Hopkins emphatically agrees with the No on Measure J community, saying that the county has an obligation to insure that the Yes on Measure J contingency does not mislead voters with the ballot question. She states: "Our smaller farmers are saying, no, this is wrong, warning of economic impact, loss of local food production, harm to organic dairies." Hopkins insists that small, local farmers and large, alike, are already adhering to the strictest of standards and that even the most modest-scaled chicken farm, for instance, must feed indoors for more than 45 days a year in a long rainy season. This would effectively put the smallest of family farms in peril under the Measure J laws. "I think its impact would be devastating to farms and local food security. Personally, I love local butter, eggs, cheese. If this passes, people won't stop buying eggs, butter and cheese, they'll just have to buy it from farms that aren't local and quite frankly, don't have the animal welfare standards that our local farms do."
Hopkins urges Sonoma County residents to get to know our local farmers, shop more at the farmer's markets, pick local brands, ask questions and educate friends, family, cowokers and neighbors as to what our county will look like and how it will significantly impact our local food supply if Measure J was to be approved.
California Farm Bureau, Sonoma County Farm Bureau, Sonoma County Farm Trails, Sonoma County Conservation Action, Sonoma County Alliance, Cal Climate & Ag Network all say NO on J.
The No on J FAQs includes info on California’s Proposition 12, which is arguably the nation’s strongest animal welfare law and is already providing protections against the continued confinement of animals (specifically veal calves, breeding pigs, and egg-laying hens), and ensures these animals are given the ability to move around freely, even in an operation considered a CAFO. At the local level, farms that would be affected by Measure J already follow third-party animal welfare standards, including audits to ensure the care and well-being of farm animals. So if anything, this measure proposal shines even more of a spotlight on the practices within our local farms. Let's continue to be a county that farming communities around the world turn to for inspiration and innovation. Let's continue to be a farming community that cares and collaborates and continues to open its gates and educate the public in order to provide us with the best, most nutritional local food in a future where having one of the word's best local food supplies is one of the most reassuring elements of our modern lives.
Take some time out of your day to read through and share our region's ag culture website info at https://foodandfamilyfarms.com/.
Click here for the impacts of Measure J.
Frances Rivetti is a British Americaan freelancw writer based in Petaluma, Sonoma County. She is the author of four books: Fog Valley Crush, Love at First Bite, At Home in the California Farmstead Frontier; Fog Valley Winter, Pionner Heritage, Backroad Rambles and Pioneer Recipes; Big Green Country and The House on Liberty Street. She is at work on her third novel, Floating in the Middle, which is set against the coastal erosion backdrop of Sonoma Coast. Follow her on social media on