Southern Sonoma Country Life

And So This Is Christmas . . . Sentiments, Rituals and Recipes for Comfort and Cheer

Contrary to increasingly popular belief, Christmas is not cancelled this year. It comes in many sizes, shapes and forms and doesn't necessarily have to be celebrated on the 25th. After all, the 'reason for the season' was conveniently attached to the pagan winter light festivities in order to make the best of the darkest time of year, so bringing it on early, waiting a day or two or a week or two even wouldn't be too much of a problem!

Now more than any other time, it's perfectly fine to shake things up, tone it down, even ramp it up if we choose, as long as we do it with necessary caution and care. News has been a bit bleak of late and we're all tired of the on again, off again social restrictions. So finding comfort and joy and celebration in the small details and the company of those we love, even if it has to be by screen, is the key to taking solace in this 2021 festive season. 

I've enjoyed hearing from friends and family around the world as to the fun and innovative and sometimes super last-minute ways to make merry during these unprecedented holidays. And so I reached out on social media to find out what's in store for Christmas. 

If you're not feeling it this year, your plans have been altered or cancelled or you just fancy something new in your holiday activity line up, I hope at least one or two of these missives from around the globe will inspire your mood. 

And if you're batting down the hatches and hunkering down at home with the cat and a good book and a glass of something warm or bubbly (or both), then that's perfectly fine too. A new year is on its way. Yeah! 

"Christmas Eve we have a rousing rendition of the 12 Days of Christmas and a dear friend reads A Night Before Christmas before everyone goes home," says Andrea of Petaluma. "We skipped it last year and my teen insisted we continue the tradition this year."

"We have a long-standing tradition of going for a Christmas Eve neighborhood walk with a flask of good Cognac," says Adrian in Petaluma. "It's wonderful to see everyone's tree or lights in their window and hear the laughter of people having dinner parties. Love to have Becky on my arm as we walk in the cold evening air. Something we look forward to every year. It's sounds voyeuristic but it's very innocent enjoying the lights. Safe and outdoors. Perfect for introverts almost joining in."

And for Tina of Petaluma it's a: "Sunset walk on the beach on New Year’s Eve. Bye, bye last year and no hangover into the next!"

In fact, winter walks are popular at this time of year in colder climes too:

"We make mince pies with fresh apple added into them, then deliver our Christmas cards to neighbours and follow the village advent window trail," writes Kerry in Kent, UK. "Then on Christmas Eve we walk to the village pond to watch Mary and Joseph ride a donkey up the hill into the church."

Nancy in Petaluma is going to: "Make a hot cocoa board with gingerbread men, marshmallows, peppermints, etc . . . and then drag my family out to look at lights."

Helen in Queensland, Australia: "I watch the Love Actually movie to remind me of families coming together again and of the day I can go home (to the UK) for a cold Christmas . . . and I eat Queensland prawns with mango and avocados . . . yum."

"Our fam tradition is to gather and watch Polar Express together. And of course drinking lots of hot hot hot chocolate with marshmallows in our collected vintage Santa face mugs," says Renee, also of Petaluma. 

"Alice's Gluten Free Pear and Persimmon Cake is great for all the persimmons out there," shares Petaluma food writer and designer, Alice. 

"My family gathers to make tamales for Christmas Eve. Usually the Sunday before- it has been a tradition for 4 generations," writes Pilar, of Petaluma. 

John from Cincinnati shares his Mom's Spoonbread recipe from Virginia. "It's like cornbread, but better." His Mom's grandfather was good friends with (American naval officer & explorer) Admiral Byrd. "This recipe has been enjoyed for over 5o years."

John writes: "It's a family tradition every Christmas when my 40-something son and daughter kneel at my side and thank me for getting them out of Illinois when they were still in grade school. Really."  No offense if you're reading this in Illinois. John explains how he came to California when he was eight, left again at 13, wandered the US and France and when he returned to the States at 24, it was obvious to him that Northern California was: "The place to BE." Needless to say, John and family will be happy just to be home in Petaluma this Christmas. 

Elaine, who lives a couple blocks from John shares that she's looking forward to serving Italian foods as per her Swiss Italian family's tradition. "Torrone in individual boxes with lovely protraits, along with Panettone and a St. Honore cake . . . My Swiss grandparents would make a wonderful pastry that I can't find the recipe for: thin pastry squares, deep fried and dusted with powdered sugar . . . and a similar pastry which would be folded over and stuffed with a mixture of brandy, walnuts, sugar, and crushed dried figs, then deep fried and dusted with powdered sugar."

Kerry and I both concur that we love the 1992 Muppets Christmas Carol more than any other cinematic version of Dickens' classic. Wonderful and heartwarming for kids of any age! 

"Nothing ever seems too bad, too hard, or too sad when you've got a Christmas tree in the living room." _ Nora Roberts 

And talking of trees . . . my sister-in-law Francesca is spending Christmas in Philly where she lives and works after a last minute change in plans to visit her Mom and family and friends in the UK for the first time in two years. It was hugely disappointing to make the decision at the 11th hour but potential lock downs in the UK and concerns about traveling back into the US were just too much to ignore. Seeing as she didn't have a Christmas Tree, when she stumbled upon one in her all time favorite color on sale, she knew it had her name on it. 

Click here for Francesca's video short! 

"And that, of course, is the message of Christmas. We are never alone. Not when the night is darkest, the wind coldest, the world seemingly most indifferent..." Taylor Caldwell. 

Dreaming of Scotland? How About a Long, Luxury Wildlife Weekend at a Shoreline Ancestral Family Home On The Isle of Skye?

In 2022, Kinloch Lodge, Skye’s landmark hotel, celebrates its 50^th anniversary. To mark the occasion, it is introducing a new three-night package showcasing the very best experiences that the hotel has to offer, and giving guests a real sense of place. From a wildlife walk with the hotel’s own ghillie to a shoreline foraging session with the restaurant’s head chef, the package invites guests to join the Macdonald family in marking 50 very special years.
 
Originally built as a farmhouse, Kinloch Lodge was converted into a shooting lodge for the Macdonalds of Skye in the 18th century.

 

Today Isabella Macdonald is at the helm, welcoming guests into not just a hotel, but her ancestral, family home. It was opened as a hotel by Isabella’s father Godfrey, Lord Macdonald and High Chief of Clan Donald, and his wife, world-renowned cook Claire, in 1972.

 

 THE GOLDEN ANNIVERSARY PACKAGE

 
As soon as guests arrive, they are led into the hotel’s drawing room with its roaring fire and comfy sofas and the atmosphere is of being welcomed into a family home, not a hotel. As they relax and look at artefacts and heirlooms from the Macdonald family’s history (including a signed letter from Sir Winston Churchill), they are served a welcome ‘golden cocktail’ and the feeling of celebration can truly begin. Dinner on each of the three nights, served in the beautifully historic dining room, are three-course affairs, with inventive dishes using homegrown produce from the hotel’s polytunnels and taking inspiration from Claire Macdonald’s early recipes.
 
The first morning is spent with Mitchell Partridge, Kinloch’s own ghillie and part of the Kinloch team for over 20 years. Mitchell has an unrivalled knowledge of Skye’s wild places and the wildlife that can be seen on the island. Beginning from the hotel’s front door, guests will scan the horizon and the ridgelines for the swooping forms of golden eagles, a species that has prospered in the area since being reintroduced, before heading closer to the loch’s edge to spot porpoises and, hopefully, otters. Mitchell will give an introduction to bushcraft skills too, lighting a fire using traditional techniques. In the afternoon, guests will be able to enjoy walks around the Kinloch estate or head south along the Sleat Peninsula for a visit to Armadale Castle, the historic seat of Clan Donald and now home to an enchanting walled garden and museum.
 
The second full day takes on an epicurean feel. After a full Scottish breakfast, guests head off to Torabhaig Distillery, the newest whisky distillery on the Isle of Skye. The building was built out of stone from the ruined castle in the bay and today has a removable roof so that the copper stills can be more easily replaced. Visitors will learn how the distillery is fed by the pure waters of the Allt Breacach and Allt Gleann burns before joining a tutored tasting of Torabhaig’s first edition whisky, a dram laced with smoke and peat. In the afternoon, guests join Jordan Webb, Kinloch’s head chef, for a foraging walk along the loch’s foreshore. Jordan will explain more of his food philosophy – seasonal produce, locally sourced and cooked with creativity, while teaching guests some foraging skills. From identifying seaweeds and sea herbs, to tasting and picking bog myrtle and sea buckthorn, there’s much to learn and enjoy. Guests will spot foraged ingredients on the menu for their three course dinner in the evening.

 

 
Price: Kinloch Lodge (Kinloch-lodge.co.uk, 01471 833333) offers a Golden Anniversary package from £899pp sharing, including three nights’ half-board accommodation in a cosy double with sea view, welcome cocktail on arrival, Golden Eagle and wildlife walk, shoreline foraging, tour of Torabhaig Distillery, walk around Clan Donald lands and branded apron.
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The Great Dickens Christmas Fair Presents — Drive Thru Dickens' London this Holiday Season 2021 — Book Ahead for A Taste of Dickens' Christmas from the Comfort of Your Car

 

Join my friends, the Producers of the Great Dickens Christmas Fair in supporting talented artists, caterers and crews who have been unable to resume their normal employment opportunities due to COVID-19.

Drive Thru Dickens' London is a safe way to enjoy the beloved San Francisco Great Dickens' Christmas Fair's celebrated fine foods, unique handcrafts and delightful characters from the streets and stages of Victorian London ~ a win-win for guests and participants alike this holiday season!

Only a handful of tickets are available for each day and time slot ~

Click here to Purchase your Vehicle Ticket (advance purchase is required) today! Entry is $25.00 per vehicle and includes all vehicle occupants.

This is a drive-thru-only event. The event producers look forward to returning to the much-missed indoor event next year!

The Great Dickens Christmas Fair
& Victorian Holiday Party

Escape Time in Stamford, Lincolnshire — Roast Dinner, Tea and A Stately Home Ramble —A Taste of Quintessential England at The George Hotel & Burghley House

All Photos - Frances Rivetti 

One of my favorite places in the Lincolnshire/Cambridgeshire border lands where I was born and raised is the historic Georgian market town of Stamford. And within the town itself, The George ranks as a jewel in the crown of quintessential and enduring English style, design, history, heritage, warmth and hospitality.

It was an absolute treat to stay a few nights on my trip to England this July. My niece's classic country wedding was nearby so there was no excuse not to make a reservation to soak up all that I love best about being home in a part of the country that is not over run by tourists. 

Pandemic restrictions may have kept overseas visitors at bay this summer of 2021, though the staycation revival for quality travel and tourism with careful protocol in place was clearly at full throttle in the Stamford area and throughout the country's most scenic locales. 

So where is Stamford, you may ask if you've not yet had the time to look beyond London and the Cotswolds for English escapes?

It's located along The Great North Road, one of the most famous highways in the world. Phoenician traders, Ancient Britons and the legions of Rome traversed its storied route. Later, marauding bands of Saxons and Danes and Norman armies followed suit.

For over a thousand years an historic inn has stood by the Welland River crossing in Stamford, Lincolnshire at the roughly 100 mile point north of London and 100 miles south of York, providing food and shelter to the hungry and weary traveler at the half-way mark between these two fabled cities. 

This route served as the main highway between England and Scotland from medieval times until the 20th century. In its heyday it was a coaching route for mail coaches and horses between London, York and Edinburgh. 

Highwayman Dick Turpin's rapid flight from London to York on his mare Black Bess is one of the most infamous legends of the Great North Road. Several inns  claim Turpin took refreshment or stopped for respite for his horse along the route. Though The George of Stamford stakes no claim, The Winchelsea Arms, an inn now known as The Ram Jam Inn, nearby at Stretton, Rutland, is reputed to be one of his haunts. 

Today, the A1 more-or-less parallels the original route of the Great North Road. Coaching inns such as The George of Stamford provided staging posts for  accommodation, stabling of horses and replacement mounts. In order to make a stop at any one of these gracious old inns that have survived the test of time, motorists must turn off the modern highway and make a detour into town. 

The exact age of The George is unknown, but early historians referred to it as: "A very ancient hostelry, once belonging to the Abbots of Croyland". This is of particular interest to me as the ancient town of Croyland, now known as Crowland, located about 18 miles from Stamford, is where I grew up and my folks still live. I bused in and attended Stamford College from age 16 to 19 while studying for my A Levels at the end of my high school years. 

It is believed that The George may have been standing in 947 A.D., and was included with much of Stamford Baron in a gift made by Turkotul, chancellor King Edred, to the Abbey of Croyland.

Shortly after the Norman Conquest the lands and buildings that Croyland Abbey held south of the Welland passed into the possession of the Abbey of Peterborough (now cathedral).

The George of early days would have been much smaller in size, for the present inn incorporates the bulk of two former religious houses which bounded the old inn on each side. On the south stood the house of the Holy Sepulchre, a hospital of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, sometimes referred to as Knights Hospitallers.

It was here that the pilgrims and knights of the Holy Sepulchre were hosted and entertained as they traveled from the north on their journey to Jerusalem to visit the Sepulchre of Christ, the knights accompanying the pilgrims for protection.

According to the inn's history page: "We know that in the 15th century, The George was a place of considerable importance, for a proprietor, John Dickens, was three times Alderman or Chief Magistrate of Stamford, in the years 1478, 1483 and 1493. His daughter and heir, Alice, was married to David Cissell or Sicilit, a gentleman of Stamford, who became one of King Henry VIII's Sergeant at Arms. David Cissell had a son, Richard, who in 1539 obtained the grant of the site of the recently dissolved priory of St. Michael as well as the church and 299 acres of land lying in the parish of St. Martins. Richard Cissell was father to William Cecil, the first Lord Burghley, the great Elizabethan statesman, whose descendants, the Marquises of Exeter are still seated at Stamford at Burghley House.

When Lord Burghley founded his bedehouse on the Welland bank where the hospital of St. John and St. Thomas once stood, he gave the landlord of The George in perpetuity the right of nominating one inmate, and this right has never lapsed. The main block of The George inn was rebuilt by Lord Burghley in 1597, and to this day his coat of arms is to be seen over the front entrance proclaiming the aristocratic antecedents of this noble hostelry. The Elizabethan stone mullioned lattice windows in the upper story on the north side of the main block date from this time."

Visitors to the hotel see on their left as they enter a door marked "London" and on their right a doorway marked "York". These two old paneled rooms were the original waiting rooms for passengers gathering for their coaches which changed horses in the hotel yard.

 In the west wing of the hotel there was a stately ballroom. Guests in the rooms in this part of the inn may be intrigued to learn that above the ceilings of their rooms, the original lofty ceiling and minstrels gallery still remain as they were over two hundred years ago.

In recent decades the hotel has been modernized for comfort, though considerable care has been taken not to destroy its historical features. Much of the most recent updates and decor has been focused on restoration.

Luxurious accommodation, a cuisine to satisfy the most discerning tastes and excellent service make The George a favorite for return visitors. Its wine cellars are a source of great pride, where fine wine  is stored under ideal conditions in vaults which date back to the earliest days of the inn's foundation.

The night before my niece's wedding (rehearsal dinners are not a thing in the UK), my brother, father of the bride, joined my husband Timo and me for supper in The Oak Room restaurant at The George, renowned for its fine dining - with wines to match - in an incredibly beautiful, oak-paneled setting.

We were compelled to opt for succulent and traditional Roast Beef, carved at our table from the silver domed trolley, accompanied by Yorkshire pudding, hot horseradish, mustards, gravy and roast, boiled and mashed potatoes - and a selection of vegetables — the dining room's signature dish.

After supper highlight was the cheese trolley with traditional British cheeses and a Brandy, Armagnac and Whiskey trolley assortment. 

During the summer months, and between seasons, the à la Carte Restaurant has tables outside under the heated canopy. We were fortunate to have gorgeous sunshine throughout our stay at The George and reveled in morning breakfast outdoors under sun umbrellas in cobblestone, courtyard seating.

English decor is never complete without a folly or two. The ladies' bathrooms are the perfect example!

After dashing around visiting our two families, a little quiet time over tea was a tonic to process all that we'd undertaken to travel safely from the States to the UK during the pandemic. 

The day after the wedding we had a few hours to ourselves for a wander along the River Welland and into and around the grounds of Burghley House. Burghley is one of the largest and grandest surviving houses of the sixteenth century and a magnificent example of the great Elizabethan ‘prodigy’ houses.

Conceived by William Cecil, Lord High Treasurer to Queen Elizabeth I, between 1555 and 1587, Burghley is a testament to the ambition and vision of the most powerful courtier of the first Elizabethan age.

Green tranquil walks, modern sculpture abound. The gardens and parkland that we experience today at Burghley were largely designed by Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown in the 18th century.

There are sweeping vistas leading down to the spires of Stamford in the parkland and an oasis of flowing water to be viewed in the Garden of Surprises. We enjoyed a tranquil walk next to the lake after passing by the Sunday picnics with envy. British picnics, complete with wicker hampers, bubbly, cucumber sandwiches, scones and tartan rugs are certainly back in vogue.

William Cecil, the first Lord Burghley, had a strong sense of family. Burghley House, the Cecil family’s home for over sixteen generations, continues to be the centerpiece for this sense of shared legacy.

Burghley Estate was endowed to the Burghley House Preservation Trust by the 6th Marquess of Exeter in 1987. Made up of Burghley House, farmland, woodland, and a significant property portfolio, the Estate covers an array of residential, agricultural and commercial properties including hotels, pubs and offices with additional quarries, gardens and allotments as well as the rights to sporting activities. Horse trials were taking place the day we visited. 

I've visited Burghley House and its superb Sculpture Garden many times in the past, so we didn't make an indoor tour this time, but I'll be back! The collection of Fine Art held within Burghley House is extensive and varied and includes many highly important objects. The collection of Italian Old Master paintings is one of the finest in private hands. The collections of both Oriental and European ceramics are world famous and of great interest to scholars. Fine English and Continental furniture, 17th century Objects of Vertu, English portrait miniatures and European Works of Art all feature strongly, whilst the collection of Chinese Snuff Bottles is thought to be one of the finest in the Western world.

I was relieved to find most of the shops in Stamford's bustling center have made it through the country's extended stay-home orders as well as the Saturday street market. It's such a pleasurable town to potter around for a few hours of window shopping and boutique browsing. 

In the words of Stamford's visitor's program: "A joyous coincidence of geography and geology has allowed Stamford to remain the "finest stone town in England", its prosperity drawn from the wool trade and its historical position as a mail coach inter-change on the Great North Road almost halfway between London and York.

Stamford was the first town in the country to create a conservation area in 1967 and it has this to thank for the fact that over the subsequent half century much of its historical architectural heritage has remained intact. See Martin Smith's History of Stamford

Stamford is idyllic enough to have formed the backdrop for television costume dramas such as Middlemarch and the 2005 film Pride & Prejudice. It is regularly a finalist in The Sunday Times the best place to live in Britain survey."

If You Go

Getting There

Stamford is easily accessible by train from London's King's Cross to Peterborough and a short change of train directly into the heart of Stamford. It's quite feasible to make this a long weekend or two or three day get-away without a car if you are mobile enough on foot. Plan a half-day either end of your stay if traveling in and out of London. 

To drive, connect motorways out of London to take the A1 North for approx 100 miles. 

The town boasts 11 churches, 30 pubs, 20 restaurants and over 10 quality hotels and guest houses. Most of the pubs serve Real Ale and are easy walking distance of the town centre, railway and bus stations. Shopping is a pleasure in a pedestrianized main street with a wide choice of boutique-style independently owned clothing, home and curiosity shops and small, upscale chain stores. It's a foodie's haven with its range of butchers, bakers and fishmongers. 

Click here for the website for The George.

I highly recommend you figure out the eight hour time difference if calling from California and booking directly. The staff are super responsive and helpful and will advise you of best rates. In these times of rapidly changing travel directives, its better to be safe than sorry with regards to cancellation fees etc. If you book a meal in the inn, you'll receive a discount on one of your room nights. 

Burghley House is open every Wednesday to Sunday and the Gardens are open daily. Pre-booking your time slot is essential prior to your arrival.

Admission to the House & Gardens is valid with House & Gardens or Gardens Only ticket. Your ticket is valid for 365 days, allowing you to return as many times as you like from the date of purchase. All visitors and staff are required to continue to wear face masks, coverings or visors inside the House at all times.

Travel Tuesdays — Escape to Rural Rutland — England's Smallest Historic County

Photos: Frances Rivetti

One of the upsides of the pandemic era has been the glorious rediscovery of treasure spots on our doorsteps — or within driving distance at least. And for me, the best of both worlds applies when it comes to a trip back to the homeland to visit family.

Hence a day visit to England's smallest county of Rutland — located a mere 40 minute drive from the small Lincolnshire market town where I was born and raised and my parents, aunt and uncle still live. My sister-in-law, Maria and her husband relocated to a village in Rutland during the pandemic since they've settled into permanent work-from-home positions and don't have to plan for a commute. I can't think of a better spot a hop, skip and a jump to the north of the market town of Stamford (up next on Travel Tuesdays) in which to set up camp if lifestyle permits living a little off the beaten track when it comes to city life.   

My water-loving folks were into windsurfing when I was a teenager and if my memory serves me right, I can't have been more than 19 the last time I visited Rutland Water, surely the most bucolic and picturesque of the largest man-made reservoirs in Europe. The landlocked East midlands county of Rutland is neighbor to Lincolnshire to its west, Leicestershire to its north and Northamptonshire to its south. 

Rutland Water is an important nature reserve covering 3000 acres of non-tidal water, serving as an over-wintering site for wildfowl and a breeding ground for Ospreys. Considering he entire county's greatest length north to south is 18 miles and its greatest breadth east to west is 17 miles, the reservoir is certainly integral to its identity since its inception in the 197os. 

Cottages in the towns of Oakham, Uppingham and 54 surrounding villages are built from limestone or ironstone with roofs of Collyweston stone, slate or thatch. 

To make Rutland Water a large part of the parish of Empingham was flooded, which resulted in the destruction of several small, historic communities. Both the ancient village of Nether Hambleton and Middle Hambleton were cleared as the river Gwash and several others were diverted in order to provide the water needed to fill the reservoir. This lost village, part of the Hambletons is thought to have been the capital of Rutland’s Anglo-Saxon kings.

It's eerie to think of a village that remains under the water, a small community of houses and farms abandoned forever and frozen in water time. Read more about this interesting history here. 

Rutland Water is thirty-four meters at its deepest and the crest of the dam is 1,200 meters long. Once completed, various areas were designated as sites for recreational use. Small marinas, parks and restaurants were built around the edge of the reservoir.

Maria took a week day off work to join us as we reacquainted ourselves with this watery wonderland on a quiet Monday in July during my busy trip with my husband, Timo, visiting with our British-based families.

It just so happened to be the day after the hottest weekend in Britain's summer and we had timed it just right to avoid all the Saturday and Sunday leisure seekers.  

In fact, we had the place to ourselves in parts and enjoyed a waterside walk and a boat ride under the prettiest of blue skies. When in the UK, every good walk should end with a good pub, especially when four-legged family members are welcome, too! Maria's dog, Trixie enjoyed her romp around Rutland as much as we did. 

There are several scenic Pub Walks around Rutland from village to village, with far reaching views, ranging from a mile or two to four, five or six miles or more, depending on stamina and how much beer walking companions can drink! Country pubs are renowned for delicious dining and there are many historic inns, halls and hotels offering hearty English breakfasts, lunch, afternoon teas, Sunday roasts, light bites and gourmet suppers.  

It's a foodie haven with farm shops, butcher shops, bakeries, farmers markets, wine merchants, ice creameries, tea shops and coffee houses. 

National Sailing Academy Rutland Sailing Club and Rutland Water Sports provide excellent training for grown ups and kids looking to develop their water legs. 

For those who love the water but would rather stay dry, fly fishing adventures await. There's a nice, sandy beach for relaxing waterside and also a weekly Rutland Water Park Run on Saturday mornings at 9am and a cycling hire center offering wheels for all ages, including electric. 

The fun-looking aquapark was the busiest spot on a Monday, with kids out of school and enjoying a chance to let off steam in a safe, outdoor environment. 

Rutland Nature Reserve occupies shoreline and shallow water lagoons along nine miles of the western end of the reservoir, which is home to the Rutland Osprey Project. 

If golf is your thing, there are five excellent courses to play in Rutland offering satisfying challenges for newbies and pros alike. What I was most enthralled with was the natural wonders of the waterside with its lagoons and meadows, hedgerows and woodlands, that flourish in this meticulously managed region thanks to a strong partnership between Anglian Water and the Rutland Wildlife Trust. 

The full Rutland Water route for cycling or hiking is 23 miles. Next time I'm back I plan a few days to enjoy more that Rutland has on offer. I'd love to start at either Whitwell or Normanton and cycle the route all the way round, passing through these its lovely villages and woodland.

Getting There 

Rutland is located both 100 miles from London and York and makes for a great place to stop and enjoy classic English rural culture when traveling between these two major tourist cities, or as a stand-alone destination itself. It's ideal for rambling or bike riding with a loved one or friend and a super pick for a family or group getaway with car-free activity options galore. 

Situated between Peterborough and Leicester, Rutland benefits from a central location in the East Midlands, close to major road networks including the A1 and A47. The railway station at Oakham has a direct service from/to Stansted airport and connects the county with the rest of the region. See National Rail Enquiries for trains.  

For places to stay, day or week-long itineraries visit Discover Rutland. Self-catering abounds, as well as guest houses, hotels, caravans, camping and glamping, B&Bs and inns. 

Photo: Discover Rutland 

A cruise aboard the Rutland Belle allowed us to enjoy the sights of Rutland Water whilst listening to commentary highlighting points of interest.
The Rutland Belle can carry up to 110 passengers, with 60 places in the under-cover saloons. Drinks are available on board.

Travel Tuesdays — Hideaway on the North Norfolk Coast — England at its Best

All Photos - Frances Rivetti 

According to BBC Good Food there are two types of samphire – marsh and rock – though only marsh samphire is widely available. Marsh samphire, with its  vibrant green stalks, similar to baby asparagus, although with a distinctively crisp and salty taste, is all the rage in North Norfolk where foodies snap it up from all sorts of charming honor-system baskets in the summer months. It may be used raw in salad, though as it tends to be so very salty, it's more often boiled or steamed for a few minutes before serving, or sold in jars of pickled samphire in gourmet shops.

I don't remember marsh samphire being so popular when I was a teenager, the last time I had the opportunity to fully explore the North Norfolk coastline at leisure prior to my recent trip to England to visit my folks. This is an area of immense natural beauty but not all that easy to access given that it's well off the beaten track and tiny Norfolk lanes are tricky to navigate.

British culinary trends have returned to the days prior to the era of pre-packaged convenience in that farmed and foraged, homegrown, homemade, local and fresh is hugely popular. Just as the return to home shores for travel and leisure has upped the demand for quality stays in lovely locations, the food that goes along with it is just as great. 

With my July 2021 test-out-of-isolation record on my phone a week after arriving in the UK from the US, the first place I'd been hopeful to cram into my shortened travel itinerary was Wells-Next-The-Sea, an ideal destination an hour-and-a-half's drive east from my folks' in which to soak up the sea, fishing boats, crabbing, birdwatching, coastal walking, pub garden pit-stops and coastal cottage dreaming. 

Checking out the classic English beach huts was top of my list. Who wouldn't love one of these wonderful, quirky, colorful beauties? The good news is, if you plan it out far enough ahead, you may be able to rent one! You can't actually stay overnight, but how civilized a day or two at an award-winning beach to make a pot of tea, read a book and lounge?

Wells beach hut (not as pictured) has seating for over 6 people including deck chairs and wooden folding chairs. It also has a bench and folding table inside, for those seeking some shade on the hot summer days, or to get out of the cold when taking brisk walks in the winter months. There are an array of buckets, spades and beach games available, as well as a couple of surf boards for fun in the sea. Tea and coffee making facilities, cutlery, cups, plates and everything needed to wash up afterwards. 

Wells-Next-The-Sea was a harbor as far back as the eleventh century. There was a commercial fishery by the end of the early fourteenth century and vessels fished for herring and cod off Norway and as far a distance as Iceland. 

The seaside town became famous in the eighteenth century for its export of malt. It's incredible to think that a third of England's malt barley exports passed through the Wells custom house where large malting buildings dominated the skyline above town with its quaint narrow yards and Georgian architecture. Several remain and have been converted to apartments. History and heritage abound. 

Today the harbor is used by local and visiting leisure sailors and fishermen who bring in crabs, lobsters and whelks. 

The Crown Hotel, warm, comfortable, inviting and cosy, serves some of the best seasonal breakfasts, lunches, afternoon teas and dinners along the coast. There are some pretty fancy spots to stay between Wells-Next-The-Sea and Blakeney, but I was pleased I opted for The Crown, it was an absolute delight. Seeing as we were staying during the extended restriction period in the UK, it was reassuring to experience how many protocols where in place for staying and taking refreshment in the hotel. 

Staff are super, the region has had record low COVID numbers and yet nobody took any less care to adhere to safe standards. We enjoyed a memorable dinner in the dining room which I had reserved a couple of months prior, which was a good thing, seeing as the place was fully booked up. It's best to book directly and especially so with sensible cancellation policies in place. 

Click here to read the fascinating history of The Crown, which is believed to have been built in 1450. 

Summer is a lovely time to visit, but the English weather being unpredictable means that you could just as easily find yourself basking in the sunshine whether it's summer, spring, autumn or winter! 

The weather was kind for my husband Timo and me as we wandered the town and enjoyed fish and chips on the quay. I was impressed by the number of quality boutiques and potteries, cafes, bespoke butcher's shops, fish shops and a terrific interactive history museum in the Maltings. 

Along the coast visitors may take harbor tours, seal trips or sea fishing trips. 

For those who prefer land legs, walking and cycling are big in this little corner of the world. I wish we'd had longer to stay and explore. We'll be back! 

We opted for a breezy 10 mile trek alongside coastal marshes on the Norfolk Coast Path from Wells to Blakeney to the south, stopping off for refreshment along the way! Though the wild and expansive marshes are tempting, it's best to stick to the path and designated beaches due to unpredictable and fast incoming tides. We watched a couple expertly time hopping onto their boat in Wells harbor as the impressive tide swept in late evening. I wouldn't recommend it unless you absolutely know your tidal skills are up to it. 

Norfolk is famous for its bird watching and is home to some of the rarest birds in the UK. Visit Norfolk Wildlife Trust for more info. 

Pubs galore and the local beers are to savor. 

Two Magpies Bakery on the quay in Blakeney is well worth a hike for its artisan pastries, fresh bread, sourdough stone baked pizza, assorted treats and and espresso drinks. 

Blakeney National Nature Reserve hosts an endless list of enticing activities and holiday stays.

The town itself is as pristine as the protected coastal land. Coastal hopper buses are frequent and far preferable to squeezing a vehicle through village lanes. 

Where to Stay

The Wells-Next-The-Sea Tourist Information Centre in Wells Maltings (011441328710885 if calling from the US) has a full list of hotels, bed and breakfasts and self catering accommodation accommodation, plus there are several camp sites in the region.  Click here for website. 

Getting There

Unfortunately the railway line that once was a vital link to the town of Wells was taken away in the 1960s. Now that English tourism is back to pre-1970s popularity, rail access would save on considerable summer traffic. Click here for coastal bus services that run hourly seven days a week westward to Hunstanton and King's Lynn and eastern to Cromer. 

 

 

 

There are plenty of ways to get to north Norfolk from within the UK or from overseas. North Norfolk is accessible from the north, west or south of the country and the A11 dual carriageway makes for travel from the south. The Broadland Northway provides quicker and easier access from Norwich and once in north Norfolk, there are lots of ways to get around. 

Greater Anglia trains leave London Liverpool Street and King's Cross every hour, arriving in just under two hours into Norwich or King's Lynn. From Norwich you can catch a regular train to Cromer or Sheringham, and from there and King's Lynn, there are connecting local bus services.

Southern Sonoma Country Life Rustic Christmas Greetings for 2020 Simple Celebrations at Home

Outside my home office window the street is empty of neighborhood walkers and vehicles at four in the afternoon on a December weekday so close to Christmas to be eerily devoid of holiday hustle and bustle if it weren't for the knowledge that folk are doing what they're supposed to and staying home.

Ordinarily I would be racing around from holiday event and party and last minute errands but this year, December 2020 is so utterly different for all of us — wherever we are in the world. 

I've shopped locally, walked most of my errands, filled the pantry from farm shops and favorite purveyors and I have to be honest with myself about not missing much of the department store/mall, big-city holiday lights outings I used to enjoy in season's past. 

Nightly news and updates from friends and family around the globe fills me with the fresh concerns we're all doing our best to process as we strive to stay safe and well while staying in touch. Ever the optimist, even I have to confess to the sorts of pandemic dreams that would make for a decent Netflix thriller. 

Christmas couldn't come at a better/worse time in so many ways, it's simply going to be a season for holding tight to all we are thankful for in our lives and for making the best of the holiday in however we see fit or are able to muster.

In sticking close to home I've collected lots of lovely photos this winter and in sharing a selection with you, I hope you enjoy this year's curation of literary quotes to suit this muted though still welcomed yuletide. 

And so, here, it is, Merry Christmas, as the song goes . . . Wishing you and yours a peaceful, quiet winter snuggle. Thank you to all the doctors and nurses, medical staff and each and every essential worker out there on the front line this Christmas and every day. 

“The fragrance of pine resin is frankincense poured out—a balm of stars and snow and moonlit nights” — John J Geddes..

“On a busy day twenty-two thousand people come to visit Santa, and I was told that it is an elf's lot to remain merry in the face of torment and adversity. I promised to keep that in mind.” — David Sedaris. 

“I wish we could put up some of the Christmas spirit in jars and open a jar of it every month.” — Harlan Miller 

“The rooms were very still while the pages were softly turned and the winter sunshine crept in to touch the bright heads and serious faces with a Christmas greeting.” — Louisa May Alcott.

“Christmas doesn’t come from the store to sit under the tree;
It comes from the heart and is spread for free.” — Nadine Sedaka Boulos.

“I spend the morning in the local grocers, bringing in the Christmas provisions: Stilton, ham, Brussels sprouts, a capon of terrifying dimensions. Unfathomable quantities of potatoes. Red wine and white, a bottle of Marsala. Turkish delight and cherry liqueur chocolates. A bag of satsumas, some wrapped in blue and gold paper. Several pots of cream, just in case.” — Katherine May. 

“Gifts of time and love are surely the basic ingredients of a truly merry Christmas.” — Peg Bracken. 

“Christmas is the season for kindling the fire of hospitality in the hall, the genial flame of charity in the heart. ” — Washington Irving. 

“I sit beside the fire and think of all that I have seen, of meadow-flowers and butterflies in summers that have been; Of yellow leaves and gossamer in autumns that there were, with morning mist and silver sun and wind upon my hair.
I sit beside the fire and think of how the world will be when winter comes without a spring that I shall ever see.
For still there are so many things that I have never seen: in every wood in every spring there is a different green.
I sit beside the fire and think of people long ago, and people who will see a world that I shall never know.
But all the while I sit and think of times there were before, I listen for returning feet and voices at the door.
(Fellowship of the Ring, Book II, chpt 3)” — JRR Tolkien. 

“This was the time when Mother usually did her knitting. With ten children in the family, she didn't have time to knit more than one pair of mittens a year for each of them, so she gave the mittens to them at Christmas. The children never asked who the mittens were for, even though they watched each one grow. Some had stripes of bright color and some had little patterns, and of course some were big and some were small.” —Lee Kingman. 

“Like kids who only ever get socks for Christmas, but still believe with all their hearts in Santa.” — Barbara Kingsolver. 

“At one time, most of my friends could hear the bell, but as years passed, it fell silent for all of them. Even Sarah found one Christmas that she could no longer hear its sweet sound. Though I've grown old, the bell still rings for me, as it does for all who truly believe.” — Chris Van Allsburg. 

 

 

 

Thanksgiving Greetings from Southern Sonoma County

 

Thanksgiving 

by Ella Wheeler Wilcox 1850 to 1919

 

We walk on starry fields of white
   And do not see the daisies;
For blessings common in our sight
   We rarely offer praises.
We sigh for some supreme delight
   To crown our lives with splendor,
And quite ignore our daily store
   Of pleasures sweet and tender.

Our cares are bold and push their way
   Upon our thought and feeling.
They hand about us all the day,
   Our time from pleasure stealing.
So unobtrusive many a joy
   We pass by and forget it,
But worry strives to own our lives,
   And conquers if we let it.

There’s not a day in all the year
   But holds some hidden pleasure,
And looking back, joys oft appear
   To brim the past’s wide measure.
But blessings are like friends, I hold,
   Who love and labor near us.
We ought to raise our notes of praise
   While living hearts can hear us.

Full many a blessing wears the guise
   Of worry or of trouble;
Far-seeing is the soul, and wise,
   Who knows the mask is double.
But he who has the faith and strength
   To thank his God for sorrow
Has found a joy without alloy
   To gladden every morrow.

We ought to make the moments notes
   Of happy, glad Thanksgiving;
The hours and days a silent phrase
   Of music we are living.
And so the theme should swell and grow
   As weeks and months pass o’er us,
And rise sublime at this good time,
   A grand Thanksgiving chorus.

Maybe because I'm an immigrant I personally don't have any major disappointment this year about not having as big a Thanksgiving as usual. Aside from dear friends who are staying home to be safe, my extended family and in-laws don't celebrate this American holiday with us anyway, as they're all overseas. There's no angst on breaking with tradition and hosting a smaller gathering than we typically enjoy. 

I know it's hard for so many and I hope that you're not too displaced yourself. 

I've been thinking that this year's Thanksgiving is a lot more like the European Harvest Festivals of my childhood in that we're looking more toward the natural bounty of our region than ever and we're extra grateful for home and hearth and garden and the simple pleasure of small outdoor fall and winter celebrations, whether it be a solo hike, supper for two or, best of all, for me, more intimate holiday gatherings with my husband and one, two or all three of our sons. 

There's not too much to say that hasn't been said a thousand times in the run up to the holidays 2020, so I'm sending you love and best wishes to you and yours from my corner of Sonoma County with a few of my favorite snapshots from this fall season. 

Enjoy your day, savor the simplicity and let Mother Nature do the decorating! 

 

Enjoy the Festive Revelry of The Great Dickens Christmas Fair & Victorian Holiday Party at Home This Holiday Season

Click here for Dickens Fair At HOME 

In lieu of gathering in person this year, our friends at Bay Area treasure The Great Dickens Christmas Fair invite us to enjoy the simple pleasures of "Dickens Fair at Home," launching on November 21 as their holiday gift to you! If you're a Dickens Fair fan you'll be heartened by the chance to immerse yourself in a virtual Victorian London this holiday season. 

And if you've never attended The Great Dickens Christmas Fair, join in the merriment online and find out what you've been missing! 

Each weekend from November 21st and on Christmas Eve, the Dickens Fair producers, The Patterson Family and team will generously release a splendid, festive stream of new content.

• Invoke the spirits of Christmas Past and Christmas Present with "A Christmas Carol" read by Mr. Dickens himself.
• Gather to sing in the parlour, or dance in the kitchen! Find favorite Fair music, videos, and the one and only Coventry Carolers in spirited song!
• Discover delicious recipes from merry old England and serve up holiday favorites with Dickensian flair!
• Entice your creative spirit (and young hearts) to make playful holiday gifts with instruction from Fair artists.

And we are invited to . . . 

• Shop online for lovingly crafted gifts to delight both family and friends . . . and to help boost the coffers of the fair's extraordinary artist community that has been struggling through the cancellation of a year's worth of events.

Be the first in line for tickets for next year's event. 

 

Victory Day 75th Anniversary In Words & Images — Lest We Forget

photos via Pinterest

“At eleven o’clock this morning came to an end the cruelest and most terrible War that has ever scourged mankind. I hope we may say that thus, this fateful morning, came to an end all wars.”

David Lloyd George

“Never in the field of human conflict was so much owed by so many to so few.”

Winston Churchill

“The world must know what happened, and never forget.”

General Eisenhower 

“I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.”

Albert Einstein

"Humility must be the measure of a man whose success was bought with the blood of his subordinates, and paid for with the lives of his friends."

General Dwight Eisenhower 

“I believe it is peace in our time.” 

Neville Chamberlain