"When we try to pick out anything by itself, we find it hitched to everything else in the Universe."
—John Muir
Scottish born Father of the National Parks, John Muir, also known as "John of the Mountains" is best remembered an American naturalist, author, environmental philosopher, botanist, zoologist, glaciologist and early advocate for the preservation of wilderness in the United States.
He was also a Bay Area fruit rancher, family man and writer. It was his impassioned writings that convinced the U.S. government to protect Yosemite, Sequoia, Grand Canyon and Mt. Rainier as national parks.
Photos: Frances Rivetti
What better way to discover more about the man and his magnificent achievements than to visit the place he called home for the last several decades of his life? Before I launch into the fascinating Victorian house and orchards that provide such a glimpse into the inner workings of his mind from his position on the home front, I must confess that until I opened a WhatsApp message from a long-time adventurous and outdoorsy friend in the UK, I was unaware of the John Muir House, straddling the edge of the city of Martinez, just an hour's drive from my home in Sonoma County.
"The one thing I must do when I visit is go see the John Muir House," messaged may pal since our teens, London-based Marnie Rose. "Okay," I replied, followed by a quick online search. "We can do that." Marnie's visit was an inpromtu one, following her recent retirement as founder and Director of The Garden Classroom an outstanding, Islington, London-based charity connecting people with nature.
Marnie is readying for a new chapter in her visionary work. She's planning on consulting in the 'field' of outdoor connection. In the meantime, connecting with her inspirational hero, John Muir, in the house he called home, was top of her list on a trip to California.
"I heard that there's a wonderful, old pub in the redwoods next to the house," she said, on arrival. "The Silicon Valley tech guy who sat next to me on the plane said it's a great place for lunch."
"We have to book ahead for transport," she added.
It all started to make sense. It did sound extra appealing to the uninitiated as to the size of the Bay Area. Muir Woods. The Pelican Inn. Easy to assume Muir's house would be located in neighboring coastal Marin County. I broke it to her kindly that in actual fact, we'd be making a trip over to the east bay through industrial zones of the north Bay to pay homage to the man in his austere hilltop Victorian — a national historic site owned and operated by the National Park Service, some 57 miles from Muir Woods National Monument, which, in turn, is operated by Golden Gate National Parks Conservancy. I had to admit, it was all a little confusing for someone from out of state. No redwood forest, no tavern in the trees. But intriguing, none-the-less.
I assured her that we probably wouldn't run into any trouble parking at the John Muir House on a weekday visit. I wasn't sure how popular an attraction it is, but given its location, I doubted the parking lot would be full. As it turned out, there was one other car parked upon our arrival. A contrast to the regular tour buses pulling up at his namesake woods.
Muir was born in 1938, in Dunbar, Scotland. His early years were marked by a strict upbringing, with a father who enforced rigorous discipline. As a child, he found solace and joy in the Scottish countryside, where his nature-loving grandfather would take him on long walks, nurturing an early appreciation for the natural world.
The Muir family immigrated to the United States in 1849, settling on a farm in Wisconsin. The vast and untamed American wilderness became young John Muir's new playground and classroom. In 1860, he enrolled at the University of Wisconsin, studying biology, botany and geology, disciplines that would become the academic foundation for his future explorations and conservation efforts.
In the words of the National Park Service: "John Muir was a visionary whose deep love for nature transformed the American landscape and the way people interact with the natural world. Through his passionate writings and relentless advocacy, Muir inspired a generation to see the world differently, urging the protection of wild places for the enjoyment of all. His work was instrumental in the establishment of the National Park Service and laid the foundation for the modern conservation movement, making him one of the most influential environmentalists in history.
Muir’s philosophy was revolutionary: he believed that all living things are interconnected and that humans are just one small part of a larger, intricate ecosystem. He valued the natural world not only for its economic benefits but also for its beauty, tranquility, and ability to heal the human spirit. His advocacy for preserving wild spaces was driven by a profound belief that these areas should be set aside for everyone, not just the privileged few."
Muir was an inventor, bringing a scientific curiosity to his later explorations. He immersed himself in all aspects of wild places, noticing and recording the interactions between plant, animal and planet. He was one of the first to suggest that wild places are not a resource to be exploited by humans, but have an intrinsic value all of their own. We've learned through his ideology, though there is clearly much more work to be done, especially now, that we humans are a part of nature, rather than having dominion over it.
The Strentzel/Muir house was constructed in 1882 by Dr. John Strentzel, Muir's father-in-law. The Muir family moved in following Dr. Strentzel's death in 1890. This grand home served as John Muir's residence for the final 24 years of his life, a haven of both his personal and family history.
There's a busy carriageway not far behind the property nowadays. Though Muir would not approve of the traffic hurtling noisily by, he would surely be delighted that the home in which he raised his family and rested his head was salvaged and preserved by a forward-thinking family after standing empty for many years. Two world wars would've made running an orchard and maintaining a home of this size a challenge and many grand, old Victorian homes were razed around the Bay Area in the 1950s and 60s.
We headed into historic downtown Martinez for lunch after our visit. Marnie was charmed by its unimposing, western atmosphere. A woman returning to her car that was parked in front of my vehicle asked if I'd like to move into her space and make use of the money still on the parking meter. I asked her for a lunch place recommendation and she directed us down a few blocks to .
"People are so nice out here," Marnie commented. "It took you all of five minutes to find free parking and lunch?" Much as I love London, I forget how small town my life is here in the far-flung outreaches of the Bay Area, at least by comparison.
Our cheerful server at Roxx on Main Street shared stories of the old Muir home, how it had been the hang-out pad for partying. When it came into the hands of the National Park Service in 1964, members of the Muir family who remembered it well, consulted on its restoration to as close to its original decor and contents as possible.
It was a hot September day for a visit, so we arrived at opening time, to beat the heat. I'd expected the house to be positioned deeper into the park, but it is in fact, a short walk from the small visitors center next to the parking lot and perched on a knoll with a commanding view of Alhambra Valley.
The house was nice and cool inside, a 17-room, 10,000-square-foot, two-story mansion with 12-foot high ceilings, embodying the late Victorian Italianate style. It was designed by architects Wolfe and Son and built by contractors Sylvester and Langabee. We climbed up to the attic, with its distinctive cupola atop its roof.
The house cost over $20,000 to build and furnish, boasted modern conveniences such as indoor plumbing and gas lighting. A telephone was installed as early as 1885. Muir added an electrical system shortly before his death in 1914. Water for the plumbing was obtained from rainwater collected from the roof or pumped from three nearby wells, stored in redwood tanks in the attic.
On Ranger advice, we wandered the orchard, but did not venture over to nearby trails as temperatures were too high for safety. Trails are not easily accessible, so best not to plan a hike during the more intense weather months. It was a treat to visit this important landmark with someone so passionate about the outdoors. May the spirit of John Muir inspire my dear friend Marnie to create new and exciting opportunities back in the UK for people to experience fresh air and nature.
Incidentally, the gravesite where John Muir and his family members are buried is open to Monday through Friday from 10:30 am to 4:30 pm, encompassing 1.27 acres on part of a nearby 13-acre property purchased by Dr. Strentzel in 1853. This cemetery is typical of thousands of small family cemeteries scattered across rural America. Ranger-led tours of the site are available on Saturdays and Sundays when staff is available. Reservations are required to visit his gravesite as it is located on private property. Muir and his wife's headstone is constructed of Black Academy Granite with Raymond Granite bases, featuring a thistle, the national emblem of Scotland.
If you go:
Whether you're a history enthusiast, a nature lover, or simply seeking a peaceful retreat, there's something here for you. Explore the beautifully preserved Victorian home where the Strentzel and Muir families lived, stroll through the lush orchards and (weather permitting) lose yourself in the tranquility of over 360 acres of trails on nearby Mount Wanda. As you walk in Muir's footsteps, you can also visit the Strentzel/Muir Gravesite, a place of quiet reflection. Each corner of this site tells a story, inviting you to connect with the landscapes and values that shaped Muir's life and work. There's a good bookstore/giftshop on site offering plentiful gifts for literature and nature lovers alike.
What to See and Do
- Explore the Historic Home: Tour the historic home of John Muir, where you can learn about his life, work, and legacy.
- Wander the Grounds: Enjoy the beautiful grounds, featuring a variety of plants and trees that Muir himself cultivated.
- Hiking Trails: Take a hike on one of the nearby trails to experience the natural beauty that inspired Muir.
- Visitor Center: Start your visit at the Visitor Center to gather information, view exhibits, and watch an introductory film about John Muir.
Tips for Your Visit
- Wear Comfortable Shoes: There is plenty of walking involved, so be sure to wear comfortable footwear.
- Bring Water and Snacks: Although there are no food services on-site, you are welcome to bring your own.
- Check the Weather: Be prepared for the weather conditions on the day of your visit.
The John Muir National Historic Site is open seven days a week from 10 am to 5 pm.
4202 Alhambra Ave
Martinez, CA 94553
Phone:
925 228-8860
Comments
You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post.