Am I My Brother's Keeper (runs through September 1st, 2024) — An extraordinary exhibit of 28 polychrome figures by sculptor Sean Henry prompted a visit to The Ship of the Fens, Ely Cathedral this summer during my recent family trip back to the home country.
Don't be confused by me striking my own pose whilst back in the heart of the Fenlands, about 14 miles north east of Cambridge and 80 miles north of London, where I started my journalism career. It was in Ely where I memorably covered the arrival of the late Queen Elizabeth II arriving at the train station for the annual Maundy Monday service at the cathedral in the late 80s. I've so many vivid memories of my time in the Ely area rambling around the backroads in the Ely Standard Mini, reporter's notebook on the passenger seat on the hunt for stories.
Oldest son, Rocco and my husband, Timo, took the time to recreate a favorite photo of me standing right there almost thirty years ago, during a rare winter visit. This time, though it was in June, wasn't the most summery of English days, but the weather made for ideal exhibition going on hallowed ground.
Ely is the second smallest city in England, after the city of Wells in Somerset. A small town was established around the monastery and Cathedral which dominated the Isle of Ely for centuries. Ely was actually an island until 400 years ago, when work to drain the Fens (freshwater marshes) began, creating the fertile farmland the Fens are known for today. The cathedral has welcomed visitors and pilgrims for over 1300 years. Gracing a vibrant community today (population 19,200), Ely Cathedral provides a glimpse into centuries of English heritage alongside incredibly beautiful art and architecture.
The 14th century Octagon tower at Ely and its unique wooden lantern is considered one of the wonders of the medieval world. The cathedral took over 300 years to be built. Its graceful Norman nave is among the longest in England, with a remarkable 19th century painted ceiling.
According to Historic UK: "Still susceptible to flooding today, it was these watery surrounds that gave Ely its original name the ‘Isle of Eels’, a translation of the Anglo Saxon word ‘Eilig’. It was an Anglo Saxon princess, Saint Ethelreda, who founded the first Christian community on the islands’ hill top site in 673 A.D. for both monks and nuns. Like her father Anna, the king of East Anglia, Ethelfreda had become an enthusiastic supporter of the new religion that was fast spreading through the country."
The cathedral with its many features, including the 14th century Lady Chapel and Octagon Tower, was used as a film set for the Elizabethan epics ‘The Golden Age’ and ‘The Other Boleyn Girl’ and more recently, Bradley Cooper, as Leonard Bernstein, conducting Mahler's Second Symphony in Maestro.
Arguably the most famous resident of Ely was The Lord Protector, the uncrowned King of Great Britain and Ireland, Oliver Cromwell. Cromwell inherited a large estate in the area from his uncle Sir Thomas Steward in 1636, going on to be the local tax collector, a man of wealth and great standing in the community. It was he who was responsible for shutting the great doors of the cathedral for around a decade.
If you're looking for a less crowded experience after visiting Cambridge, Ely is easily accessible by train. Stroll up from the station to wander around ancient buildings and medieval gateways, the Cathedral Close (the largest collection of domestic monastic buildings in the country) and Oliver Cromwell’s House, open year-round with exhibitions, period rooms and a haunted room. Tea rooms and antique shops abound.
We walked down to the riverside for a pint and a fish lunch, followed by ice cream from an old-fashioned van. There are several good choices of pubs and restaurants down by the water and in town. The newspaper office is gone from its long time location, which was sad to see, as with so many print newspapers around the world, though it's still in existance at least.
Though I felt nostalgic for the past and its simpler times, I was glad to see that the city and cathedral is thriving and appealing to a variety of visitors with its embrace of art and modern culture. It's a lovely place, well located given the access to public transport and I can see why I have such fond memories from that chapter of my life.
Click here for more information on visiting Ely.