Photos: Frances Rivetti
One of the upsides of the pandemic era has been the glorious rediscovery of treasure spots on our doorsteps — or within driving distance at least. And for me, the best of both worlds applies when it comes to a trip back to the homeland to visit family.
Hence a day visit to England's smallest county of Rutland — located a mere 40 minute drive from the small Lincolnshire market town where I was born and raised and my parents, aunt and uncle still live. My sister-in-law, Maria and her husband relocated to a village in Rutland during the pandemic since they've settled into permanent work-from-home positions and don't have to plan for a commute. I can't think of a better spot a hop, skip and a jump to the north of the market town of Stamford (up next on Travel Tuesdays) in which to set up camp if lifestyle permits living a little off the beaten track when it comes to city life.
My water-loving folks were into windsurfing when I was a teenager and if my memory serves me right, I can't have been more than 19 the last time I visited Rutland Water, surely the most bucolic and picturesque of the largest man-made reservoirs in Europe. The landlocked East midlands county of Rutland is neighbor to Lincolnshire to its west, Leicestershire to its north and Northamptonshire to its south.
Rutland Water is an important nature reserve covering 3000 acres of non-tidal water, serving as an over-wintering site for wildfowl and a breeding ground for Ospreys. Considering he entire county's greatest length north to south is 18 miles and its greatest breadth east to west is 17 miles, the reservoir is certainly integral to its identity since its inception in the 197os.
Cottages in the towns of Oakham, Uppingham and 54 surrounding villages are built from limestone or ironstone with roofs of Collyweston stone, slate or thatch.
To make Rutland Water a large part of the parish of Empingham was flooded, which resulted in the destruction of several small, historic communities. Both the ancient village of Nether Hambleton and Middle Hambleton were cleared as the river Gwash and several others were diverted in order to provide the water needed to fill the reservoir. This lost village, part of the Hambletons is thought to have been the capital of Rutland’s Anglo-Saxon kings.
It's eerie to think of a village that remains under the water, a small community of houses and farms abandoned forever and frozen in water time. Read more about this interesting history here.
Rutland Water is thirty-four meters at its deepest and the crest of the dam is 1,200 meters long. Once completed, various areas were designated as sites for recreational use. Small marinas, parks and restaurants were built around the edge of the reservoir.
Maria took a week day off work to join us as we reacquainted ourselves with this watery wonderland on a quiet Monday in July during my busy trip with my husband, Timo, visiting with our British-based families.
It just so happened to be the day after the hottest weekend in Britain's summer and we had timed it just right to avoid all the Saturday and Sunday leisure seekers.
In fact, we had the place to ourselves in parts and enjoyed a waterside walk and a boat ride under the prettiest of blue skies. When in the UK, every good walk should end with a good pub, especially when four-legged family members are welcome, too! Maria's dog, Trixie enjoyed her romp around Rutland as much as we did.
There are several scenic Pub Walks around Rutland from village to village, with far reaching views, ranging from a mile or two to four, five or six miles or more, depending on stamina and how much beer walking companions can drink! Country pubs are renowned for delicious dining and there are many historic inns, halls and hotels offering hearty English breakfasts, lunch, afternoon teas, Sunday roasts, light bites and gourmet suppers.
It's a foodie haven with farm shops, butcher shops, bakeries, farmers markets, wine merchants, ice creameries, tea shops and coffee houses.
National Sailing Academy Rutland Sailing Club and Rutland Water Sports provide excellent training for grown ups and kids looking to develop their water legs.
For those who love the water but would rather stay dry, fly fishing adventures await. There's a nice, sandy beach for relaxing waterside and also a weekly Rutland Water Park Run on Saturday mornings at 9am and a cycling hire center offering wheels for all ages, including electric.
The fun-looking aquapark was the busiest spot on a Monday, with kids out of school and enjoying a chance to let off steam in a safe, outdoor environment.
Rutland Nature Reserve occupies shoreline and shallow water lagoons along nine miles of the western end of the reservoir, which is home to the Rutland Osprey Project.
If golf is your thing, there are five excellent courses to play in Rutland offering satisfying challenges for newbies and pros alike. What I was most enthralled with was the natural wonders of the waterside with its lagoons and meadows, hedgerows and woodlands, that flourish in this meticulously managed region thanks to a strong partnership between Anglian Water and the Rutland Wildlife Trust.
The full Rutland Water route for cycling or hiking is 23 miles. Next time I'm back I plan a few days to enjoy more that Rutland has on offer. I'd love to start at either Whitwell or Normanton and cycle the route all the way round, passing through these its lovely villages and woodland.
Getting There
Rutland is located both 100 miles from London and York and makes for a great place to stop and enjoy classic English rural culture when traveling between these two major tourist cities, or as a stand-alone destination itself. It's ideal for rambling or bike riding with a loved one or friend and a super pick for a family or group getaway with car-free activity options galore.
Situated between Peterborough and Leicester, Rutland benefits from a central location in the East Midlands, close to major road networks including the A1 and A47. The railway station at Oakham has a direct service from/to Stansted airport and connects the county with the rest of the region. See National Rail Enquiries for trains.
For places to stay, day or week-long itineraries visit Discover Rutland. Self-catering abounds, as well as guest houses, hotels, caravans, camping and glamping, B&Bs and inns.
Photo: Discover Rutland
A cruise aboard the Rutland Belle allowed us to enjoy the sights of Rutland Water whilst listening to commentary highlighting points of interest.
The Rutland Belle can carry up to 110 passengers, with 60 places in the under-cover saloons. Drinks are available on board.
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