All Photos - Frances Rivetti
According to BBC Good Food there are two types of samphire – marsh and rock – though only marsh samphire is widely available. Marsh samphire, with its vibrant green stalks, similar to baby asparagus, although with a distinctively crisp and salty taste, is all the rage in North Norfolk where foodies snap it up from all sorts of charming honor-system baskets in the summer months. It may be used raw in salad, though as it tends to be so very salty, it's more often boiled or steamed for a few minutes before serving, or sold in jars of pickled samphire in gourmet shops.
I don't remember marsh samphire being so popular when I was a teenager, the last time I had the opportunity to fully explore the North Norfolk coastline at leisure prior to my recent trip to England to visit my folks. This is an area of immense natural beauty but not all that easy to access given that it's well off the beaten track and tiny Norfolk lanes are tricky to navigate.
British culinary trends have returned to the days prior to the era of pre-packaged convenience in that farmed and foraged, homegrown, homemade, local and fresh is hugely popular. Just as the return to home shores for travel and leisure has upped the demand for quality stays in lovely locations, the food that goes along with it is just as great.
With my July 2021 test-out-of-isolation record on my phone a week after arriving in the UK from the US, the first place I'd been hopeful to cram into my shortened travel itinerary was Wells-Next-The-Sea, an ideal destination an hour-and-a-half's drive east from my folks' in which to soak up the sea, fishing boats, crabbing, birdwatching, coastal walking, pub garden pit-stops and coastal cottage dreaming.
Checking out the classic English beach huts was top of my list. Who wouldn't love one of these wonderful, quirky, colorful beauties? The good news is, if you plan it out far enough ahead, you may be able to rent one! You can't actually stay overnight, but how civilized a day or two at an award-winning beach to make a pot of tea, read a book and lounge?
Wells beach hut (not as pictured) has seating for over 6 people including deck chairs and wooden folding chairs. It also has a bench and folding table inside, for those seeking some shade on the hot summer days, or to get out of the cold when taking brisk walks in the winter months. There are an array of buckets, spades and beach games available, as well as a couple of surf boards for fun in the sea. Tea and coffee making facilities, cutlery, cups, plates and everything needed to wash up afterwards.
Wells-Next-The-Sea was a harbor as far back as the eleventh century. There was a commercial fishery by the end of the early fourteenth century and vessels fished for herring and cod off Norway and as far a distance as Iceland.
The seaside town became famous in the eighteenth century for its export of malt. It's incredible to think that a third of England's malt barley exports passed through the Wells custom house where large malting buildings dominated the skyline above town with its quaint narrow yards and Georgian architecture. Several remain and have been converted to apartments. History and heritage abound.
Today the harbor is used by local and visiting leisure sailors and fishermen who bring in crabs, lobsters and whelks.
The Crown Hotel, warm, comfortable, inviting and cosy, serves some of the best seasonal breakfasts, lunches, afternoon teas and dinners along the coast. There are some pretty fancy spots to stay between Wells-Next-The-Sea and Blakeney, but I was pleased I opted for The Crown, it was an absolute delight. Seeing as we were staying during the extended restriction period in the UK, it was reassuring to experience how many protocols where in place for staying and taking refreshment in the hotel.
Staff are super, the region has had record low COVID numbers and yet nobody took any less care to adhere to safe standards. We enjoyed a memorable dinner in the dining room which I had reserved a couple of months prior, which was a good thing, seeing as the place was fully booked up. It's best to book directly and especially so with sensible cancellation policies in place.
Summer is a lovely time to visit, but the English weather being unpredictable means that you could just as easily find yourself basking in the sunshine whether it's summer, spring, autumn or winter!
The weather was kind for my husband Timo and me as we wandered the town and enjoyed fish and chips on the quay. I was impressed by the number of quality boutiques and potteries, cafes, bespoke butcher's shops, fish shops and a terrific interactive history museum in the Maltings.
Along the coast visitors may take harbor tours, seal trips or sea fishing trips.
For those who prefer land legs, walking and cycling are big in this little corner of the world. I wish we'd had longer to stay and explore. We'll be back!
We opted for a breezy 10 mile trek alongside coastal marshes on the Norfolk Coast Path from Wells to Blakeney to the south, stopping off for refreshment along the way! Though the wild and expansive marshes are tempting, it's best to stick to the path and designated beaches due to unpredictable and fast incoming tides. We watched a couple expertly time hopping onto their boat in Wells harbor as the impressive tide swept in late evening. I wouldn't recommend it unless you absolutely know your tidal skills are up to it.
Norfolk is famous for its bird watching and is home to some of the rarest birds in the UK. Visit Norfolk Wildlife Trust for more info.
Pubs galore and the local beers are to savor.
Two Magpies Bakery on the quay in Blakeney is well worth a hike for its artisan pastries, fresh bread, sourdough stone baked pizza, assorted treats and and espresso drinks.
Blakeney National Nature Reserve hosts an endless list of enticing activities and holiday stays.
The town itself is as pristine as the protected coastal land. Coastal hopper buses are frequent and far preferable to squeezing a vehicle through village lanes.
Where to Stay
The Wells-Next-The-Sea Tourist Information Centre in Wells Maltings (011441328710885 if calling from the US) has a full list of hotels, bed and breakfasts and self catering accommodation accommodation, plus there are several camp sites in the region. Click here for website.
Getting There
Unfortunately the railway line that once was a vital link to the town of Wells was taken away in the 1960s. Now that English tourism is back to pre-1970s popularity, rail access would save on considerable summer traffic. Click here for coastal bus services that run hourly seven days a week westward to Hunstanton and King's Lynn and eastern to Cromer.
There are plenty of ways to get to north Norfolk from within the UK or from overseas. North Norfolk is accessible from the north, west or south of the country and the A11 dual carriageway makes for travel from the south. The Broadland Northway provides quicker and easier access from Norwich and once in north Norfolk, there are lots of ways to get around.
Greater Anglia trains leave London Liverpool Street and King's Cross every hour, arriving in just under two hours into Norwich or King's Lynn. From Norwich you can catch a regular train to Cromer or Sheringham, and from there and King's Lynn, there are connecting local bus services.
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