Southern Sonoma Country Life

A New Jewel In The Crown of Magical Santa Barbara and Montecito

Santa Barbara View above — Photo by J Sinclair courtesy of Visit Santa Barbara 

Photos  — A Rivetti  2021

Nothing beats a visit to the Santa Barbara 100-mile stretch of coastline while driving the central and southern Pacific route down to Southern California. The region holds a special place in my heart and I'd happily entrench myself there for weeks at a time if I didn't love my Sonoma County, Nor Cal roots so much.

And so the timing proved fortuitous for me to have a quiet scout around the Montecito area on my way back from a visit with my oldest son in Los Angeles to celebrate his birthday. It just so happened that I was to pen a piece on Meghan and Harry's new home base in Montecito, Santa Barbara's exclusive unincorporated neighbor to the south when the news broke of the June 4th birth of couple's second child, a daughter, Lilibet Diana (named after her great grandmother the Queen and grandmother Diana).

Meghan delivered her sweet girl without any fanfare mid-morning on a sunny Friday in the nearby birthing  center of Santa Barbara Cottage Hospital, a handy 10-mile drive from the Sussexes home in the hills of Montecito.  By the time I pulled into town she was back home with Harry and Lili's big brother, Archie (2), resting in what is reputedly a rather luxurious bedroom with its amazing en-suite bathroom and no doubt, exquisite views of the Pacific and verdant Santa Ynez Mountains.

Really, whatever your take on their royal departure from Britain and the big debate about speaking out with regards to the reasons for their culture-shaking move, who could possibly find fault in their choice of relocation for the now four of them? 

It was a relief to discover that there wasn't any evidence of mass media hysteria along the quiet, secluded hillside housing enclave. The only people I spotted on the winding roads past gated estates with forests of palm and olive trees was the occasional masked and helmeted cyclist (could have been Harry for all I knew), landscapers in baseball caps and a housekeeper with her lunch box waiting for a ride. 

I spent some time chatting to cafe and storekeepers and friends in the area with regards to the general response to the royal birth. Not everyone had heard. It was no big deal. 

If the family stays long term in the area, I've no doubt young Archie and Lili will be kept out of the radar as much as possible until they're old enough to decide for themselves if they're going for the limelight, but hopefully it won't be too hard to do given the geographic location and nature of Montecito and surrounding area.

I wrote my account of my visit in brief for British-based The Royalist, a fun and informative, informal weekly newsletter by career newspaper and magazine editors Kerry and Maria that has subscribers around the world. You can read it by clicking on the following link. Sign up to receive it in your inbox. 

The Royal List 

While in Montecito we stayed at the historic Montecito Inn. Before Hollywood was a thing there was Santa Barbara and its old school western allure. The early movie production companies that eventually relocated to Los Angeles first made their home in the Santa Barbara area. Even after many stars moved on to Hollywood, Santa Barbara's allure could not be denied and this was where they came back to play and to live.

According to the Inn's heritage: "Charlie Chaplin immediately fell in love with the area. So much so, that he, along with a small group of investors, built the Montecito Inn in 1928 as an upscale getaway. It soon became one of the most desirable destinations along the California coast. Soon after the Montecito Inn opened its doors, it became the "cream of the coast" between Los Angeles and San Francisco. Years later, in 1943, Mr. Chaplin returned to Montecito to marry the love of his life, Oona O'Neill. Since then, many things have come and gone, but the popularity and luxury of the Inn has remained."

The Inn has endured many eras of California history, not least the devastating mudslides that roared through its parking structure after ravaging this small city in January 2018.

In the spirit of revival that we see time and time again in our California coastal communities, the Inn, as with its surrounding merchant neighbors, picked itself up, cleaned itself off and is more popular than ever with visitors seeking the peace and tranquility of more secluded beaches and hillside properties. As a hotel, its not all that fancy, but clean and classic and well priced for the value-seeking traveler. The thing I liked about it was its unpretentious air and the fact there was a Rolls Royce convertible in the parking lot and not down the road at the much more expensive ocean-front accommodation options.  That kind of sums up Montecito perfectly. Low key. Casual style yet glamorous in its own way. 

And we indulged in a hearty lunch (a few hours before meeting friends at their house for a seafood dinner) at the wonderful Bettina, with its outdoor seating in Montecito Country Mart which I highly recommend for Neapolitan-style pizza made with seasonal California ingredients and a cheeky Spritz if you're in the area. 

Photos — F Rivetti 2021

If you go — things are really opening up this summer. Demand is high for the coastal region, so do book ahead for your accommodations, special dinners and activities whenever possible and to plan for what you'll need as we navigate all the new protocol. I felt extremely safe and well cared for everywhere we stayed and stopped in at on our five day road trip. 

Visit Santa Barbara is a great resource of where to stay and things to do, especially for the first time visitors but also for regulars, as activities and events get back on board. 

 

Recommended Read —We Are What We Eat — A Slow Food Manifesto — Bay Area Legend Alice Waters on the Food Values We Need to Embrace

Flash back a year and one of the positive aspects of life during a pandemic was an international lock-down culinary revival. Here in the United States, where an estimated 95% of its people regularly consume fast food, the art of cooking and cooking seasonally, let alone slow food concept was suddenly and massively in vogue. And it lasted for months.

Shopping for flour and yeast and coming home empty handed was like living in a revolution era — scoring said ingredients was a triumph of the week and how many loaves of bread, cookies, cakes, scones, quiches, soups and stews were served up at tables filled with family members for weeks on end? The mind boggles. That part was wonderful.

What I hoped, as an ardent home cook, food writer and proponent of the shared family meal was that folk would get a taste for the good life of simple, locally sourced meal ingredients and stick with it more frequently after everything opened up again. 

It's no problem to find a bag of flour or packet of yeast now, so needless to say, the rush to stock our pantries has subsided significantly. And while I'm all for supporting our local restaurants, be it dine in or eat out or take home, it would be better for us and the planet if we no longer frequent the non-chain fast food eateries that have nothing to do with nurturing or nourishing us or the earth.

I was excited to learn that Alice Waters was releasing a new book We Are What We Eat — A Slow Food Manifesto. And I signed up through local indie bookstore Point Reyes Books for a copy that included an invitation to hear Alice, chef and founder of Berkeley's Chez Panisse in conversation with another Bay Area legend, The Omnivore's Dilemma author Michael Pollan, Knight Professor of Journalism at UC Berkeley’s Graduate School of Journalism and the director of the Knight Program in Science and Environmental Journalism. 

If you haven't heard of Alice Waters it's most likely that you're not in the United States. Alice has won numerous awards including the National Humanities Medal, the Cavaliere of the Italian Republic, the French Legion of Honor Medal and three James Beard Awards. She is vice president of Slow Food International and founder of the Edible Schoolyard Project, bringing healthy food awareness to communities all around the world. 

Back when Alice opened her restaurant Chez Panisse in the early 70s, her goal was to feed people good food in a time of political turmoil. Nothing much has changed fifty years on when we look at life today. And Chez Panisse, like so many restaurants worldwide continues to prove its mettle having hung in there through the past fifteen months.

I've eaten at Chez Panisse only two or three times in the years that I've lived in the Bay Area. My oldest son studied at CAL and I fondly remember a lunch we enjoyed together in the cafe upstairs from the main restaurant. If I lived in Berkeley I would eat there as often as I was able. Like the best of food and wine, the menu is seasonal, the ingredients fresh, delicious and local. In fact, most of the items on the menu when I last ate there were from Sonoma County, where I live and shop the farm stores, so lunch at Chez Panisse is like coming home, only better! Restaurants across the country have modeled themselves on the core values of Chez Panisse and how thankful are we for that?

Alice talks frequently of Bob Cannard, the iconic Sonoma County farmer behind my favorite Green String Farm, whose produce sold her on fresh, seasonal and local in the first place. I spoke with Bob a couple of years ago for a story on farmstands for the Petaluma Visitors Guide and have written about his long history in biodiverse farming.  I feel so fortunate to call this bountiful region home.  

Over five decades, Alice and her partners deduced that many of the world's most serious problems are, at their core, connected to food. In We Are What We Eat, 

the author and activist urges us to take up the mantle of the slow food culture if we haven't already. It is the philosophy that has guided her life's work as she came to see that it is the phenomenon of fast food culture, that prioritizes cheapness, availability and speed that is not just ruining our health, but dehumanizing the ways we live and relate to one another while poisoning the environment. 

Michael Pollan was the perfect choice for this online conversation to introduce the book. Michael lives and lectures in Berkeley and is a Chez Panisse regular during more normal times. He and Alice go back a couple of decades in the call to slow food living, championing a different kind of culture, one with values of biodiversity, regenerative farming, seasonality, stewardship and pleasure in work. 

"We Are What We Eat" is a wonderful, beautiful, elegant piece of work — a manifesto that is so clarifying, simple and with a sense of inevitability," said Michael, as he introduced this important new book. 

It's about a whole lot more than food, the positives and negatives of the way that we eat and how we live our lives. It's an illuminating read even for the committed farm-to-table reader. 

The book talks about why we are buying so much fast food and why we believe we need access to convenience food 24/7, why it's okay to eat in our cars, why its okay to expect supersize portions, with much of it going to waste.

Alice spoke about growing up in New Jersey after the second world war. Her family ate seasonally. She remembers playing outside until it was dark, the taste of a New Jersey tomato and of a summer strawberry. When, in the 1950s, convenience food came into play and along with it, mass advertising, Americans became immediately addicted to it and to the salt and sugar that came with it. 

"We lost our seasons and we lost the camaraderie of the table," she said. Other countries held on to their food cultures for longer, whereas America, built on puritan values, never put much stock into fun and flavor at the table. It was always more about growing and producing food for quality.

Both Alice and Michael laud Italy for "Still fighting the good fight when it comes to food values." This made me smile, as my husband of over three decades, Timo, was born into and raised by Italian immigrant parents in the UK and even after we moved to California he can honestly say he has only ever eaten fast food in a car once in his life and that was when an unsuspecting friend stopped in at one on a road trip. He likes to remind anyone who will listen that there's nothing too important to get in the way of sitting at a table for a bite to eat.

According to Alice: "The fast food culture destroyed the family dinner." 

The two of them discussed how culinary skills have been lost and many people don't believe they have time to cook. They aspire to but don't find their way to it. 

"I'm always trying to win people over with taste," said Alice. "I want to give them this, I don't just want to tell them what to do. If you know some very, very basic things about cooking and buying food it can be easy and important."

Alice is determined to demonstrate to the government that organic and local food can be purchased for school lunches for the same cost or less than mass produced foods. She's devoted the past 20 years to working in schools on the Edible Garden Project. My own three sons went to Valley Vista Elementary School in Petaluma and were fortunate to have school garden classes run by an excellent garden teacher and parent volunteers throughout their early years. It's not this way everywhere but it should be.

"Nature is such a compelling teacher," said Alice, a former Montessori teacher herself. She talked of a world that is sensorily deprived, whereas:"Food touches all of the senses."

"Kids don't all know that chicken nuggets come from a bird," added Michael, agreeing that we should teach stewardship of the earth in our gardens from kindergarten on up. 

Both spoke of the shocking degree of food shipped out of state in the mid west to feed other states by powerful industries. "This is an emergency," warned Alice, calling for regenerative agriculture and biodiversity of crops to become more widespread, immediately both to repair our immune systems and pull the carbon back down into the parched earth. 

The Central Valley for instance, would benefit vastly from a layer of compost on dry, barren, drought-hit land. It wouldn't need nearly as much water to grow crops.

A big take out was that we must treat kids as adults with regards to food, respect them and ask them to help, empower them. "That's what food communicates," expressed Alice. "Love. It's terribly important at this moment in time.

 

We have the power to chose what we eat. And we have the potential for individual and global transformation by shifting our relationship to food. "All it takes is a taste," says Alice.

I'm about half way through reading the book as I write this post. It's short and succinct and powerful. Highly recommend.