According to Morocco World News, the country has received more than 10 million visitors annually since 2013, making tourism a major part of its economy.
CNN Travel reports that Morocco's rainbows of color, spice-market smells, an urban orchestra of sounds can be overwhelming at first."Lying 13 kilometers, or 8 miles, from the coast of Spain, the North African country mixes Middle Eastern magic, Berber tradition and European flair."
Infrastructure improvements in the last decade and a half have made traveling around Morocco easier and a developing program of social, political and ethical reforms are making travel around what is considered now a moderate and peaceful country, even easier.
Photo courtesy of El Fenn — Lunch © Kasia Gatkowska
It seems half of everyone I know (other than me) has visited Morocco recently or (including me) has Morocco on their bucket list of travel destinations.
Morocco has four imperial cities packed full of history, character and culture: Marrakech, Fes, Meknes and Rabat. Marrakech, known as the Red City is famous for its ancient palaces, the striking Koutoubiah Mosque, its many shadowy labyrinths of treasure filled souks and ancient tombs. Let's not forget Morocco's beaches, mountain ranges and access to the Sahara Desert.
Where to start?
El Fenn, the unique boutique hotel in the Marrakech medina founded by art collector and entrepreneur Vanessa Branson is my top pick, combining rhe indulgence of a hip hotel with the heritage of seven traditional courtyard houses, three outdoor swimming pools and one of the finest contemporary art collections in Morocco.
A riot of color, the décor is Moroccan with both contemporary and retro twists. Rooms are reasonably priced for such a top-notch, beautiful place from the average $350 a night range.
If the owner's name rings a bell, yes, Vanessa does have a brother named Richard and it was while waiting for one of his legendary hot-air balloons to take off from Marrakech in the late nineties that she fell for the place. It's good to learn that he's not the only one in the family doing extraordinary things. Their mother, philanthropist and child welfare advocate Eve Branson, has been working in Morocco since 2005 , with the Eve Branson Foundation, which works to improve living standards of the Atlas Mountains Berber Communities.
The hotel’s own labyrinth of suites, bedrooms and public spaces retain a special intimacy yet the hotel is now able to cater for 65 guests across the main building (23 bedrooms/suites, which includes a two bedroom and a three bedroom suite in a walled town house that dates back to 1815) and a newly-refurbished five-bedroom annex.
The secret of El Fenn lies in the contrast between its large scale grandeur and its plentiful private corners.
Photo courtesy of El Fenn — Extra Large room © Kasia Gatkowska
Guests tend to stay cocooned within the ancient walls, whether immersing themselves in the tranquillity of three main courtyards filled with bougainvillea and birdsong, or curling up with a book on a sofa in one of the many hidden nooks found throughout the hotel.
The hammam and spa are popular spots for taking time out to relax and rejuvenate. Among the many ways it apparently sets itself apart from other hotels is the stunning 7,000 sq.ft (650m2) roof terrace with views of the Koutoubia mosque and the snow-capped Atlas Mountains beyond.
Accessed by a staircase or the lift, it is, by the looks of the photo below, the place for a delicious breakfast, a long lunch, or a drink with friends.
Photo courtesy of El Fenn — RESTAURANT © Kasia Gatkowska
Guests can expect luxury on a sumptuous scale, thanks to the meticulous renovation and interior design by El Fenn’s general manager, Willem Smit. Creature comforts of the rooms include spacious seating areas, marble baths, dual sinks and monsoon showers, while some of the 650 sq ft suites feature open wood fireplaces, plunge pools and private terraces.
Owner Vanessa Branson has built up an extensive private collection of works by contemporary artists over the years. Much of it now hangs in El Fenn where it is considered to be one of the most important collections of contemporary art in Morocco.
With Vanessa’s art works seen throughout the public spaces and bedrooms, guests may find themselves dining under a stunning chandelier created by Francis Upritchard or sleeping beside a series of ink studies by Antony Gormley.
Photo courtesy of El Fenn — Boutique © Kasia Gatkowska
Many of El Fenn's early guests wished to replicate the El Fenn style, which Vanessa created with her business partner, Howell James and Willem Smit. As a result, in November 2015, the former lofty restaurant and theatre was transformed into a roomy concept store-cum-bar and restaurant. The interior of the new space has a classic English Old School vibe, complete with vintage-style lampshades, with plenty of space for 35 diners and more drinkers to prop up the bar.
Co-curating the concept store’s collection, with general manager Willem Smit, is one of the biggest names in model making and fashion, ex-Ford Models, Paul Rowland. The store stocks - from new designers - a range of vintage-style clothes, many with a Moroccan vibe and an urban twist. Also on offer are vintage bags, accessories, beautiful jewelery, coffee table books, perfumes and home accessories from the finest bed linens to the best of Fez pottery.
Those who wish to explore find that El Fenn’s location beside the Bab El Ksour gate also allows instant access to both ancient and modern Marrakech. The bustle of Djemma El Fna square and the souks are just a three-minute walk away, while the shops, bars and restaurants of Gueliz and Hivernage are a five-minute taxi ride.
Photo courtesy of El Fenn — ART ©David Loftus
In 2005 Vanessa Branson founded the Marrakech Biennale which, with a thriving visual art, literature and film program, became internationally recognized. A number of initiatives have been launched off the back of the Biennale, ensuring its cultural legacy lives on. In 2016 she was awarded the Royal distinction of Officer of the Order of Ouissam Alaouite, in recognition of the contribution she has made to the Moroccan cultural scene and, in particular, for her efforts in establishing Marrakech as a richly diverse and eclectic platform for the arts.
Vanessa, Richard and their sister Lindy, an artist, are all three dyslexic. They were raised in the Home Counties, in England by parents who went out of their way to encourage their kids to be free thinkers, expressive and entrepreneurial. What incredible role models they have become!
Photo courtesy of El Fenn — POOL & COLONNADE © David Loftus
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