Clockwise – Pumpkin Spice Chevre, Nicolau Farms, Modesto; Petite Cenrdree, Marin French Cheese, Petaluma; Tomino, Nicasio Valley Cheese Co, Nicasio; Taleeka, Tomales Farmstead Cheese Co, Tomales; Toma, Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Co, Point Reyes Station; Boont Corners, Pennyroyal Farm, Boonville; Red Hawk, Cowgirl Creamery, Point Reyes Station; Buff Blue (raw water buffalo milk), Bleating Heart Cheese, Tomales.
Meet a hand-picked selection of the region's most celebrated, award-winning farmstead and artisan cheesemakers (the first being one who makes cheese on the same farm that its dairy product is produced, the second, being one who brings in organic milk and cream from neighboring farms).
California Artisan Cheese Guild welcomed fromage fans from around the world (one French cheesemaker and one Polish cheesemaker were amongst this lauded line-up) to what's being widely touted these days as the 'Napa Valley of artisan Cheesemaking'. Actually, I prefer Sonoma over Napa, but I get the point as far as global renown.
Pardon the pun, but it really is so exciting to report on the 'bleeting' edge of goat, sheep and cow's milk cheesemaking in Northern California.
Eight cheesemakers presented their works of edible art at a special Sunday afternoon California Cheese Experience farm tour, tasting and discussion at scenic Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company, amidst rolling hilltop pastures above spectacular Tomales Bay. This multi-generation, family-owned farm and event and hospitality facility, The Fork is the region's showcase for sustainable dairy farming and state-of-the-art cheesemaking.
If you've yet to visit the farm and The Fork, do check out its action-packed events calendar. Book fast, if you see an event that takes your fancy, keep in mind that space is limited in this exclusive locale, tours, brunches and activities sell out fast.
Movers and shakers in the cheese industry and media were captivated by the telling of each cheese's distinctive story by its maker. Not only do most of these cheesemakers manage their land and milking herds (breeding, genetics, lactation cycles, feed and all sorts of scientific calculations that vary with the season) — they're more often than not in charge of marketing and managing demand that often outstrips supply.
It may sound romantic from the outside looking in, but these good, extremely hard working folk will tell you that, not unlike owning your own bakery (an outdoor one), cheesemaking is a 24/7 commitment requiring creativity, consistency, determination, out-of-the-box thinking, practice, technique, systems, extreme resourcefulness and rare moments of downtime for a week or two each winter only, if it all works out.
Though each produced wildly different flavor profiles and textures, one thing each of these extraordinary cheesemakers had in common was the benefit of access to highest quality dairy products. Most of the cheeses pictured above were crafted from milk no older than 30 hours.
I'm enthralled by the wonderful names of our region's amazing cheeses, many of them derived from Coast Miwok names and local lore: Moolicious Blue (Bleating Heart); Black Truffle Casiago (California take on classic Italian Asiago by Nicolau Farms); Point Reyes Toma (one of my favorite Point Reyes Farmstead products — means 'made by the farmer').
You'll find most of these delicious cheeses at your favorite cheese counters in Sonoma County. Some sell directly at farmers market or from their sites. Take a few minutes to click on these cheesemaker's sites in the links under the cheese photo.
As we approach the holiday season our cheese buying likely increases. Isn't it fantastic to share a heavenly taste of our regional terroir in cheese form with visiting friends and family? I have to admit every once and again to hiding the odd wedge or two at the back of the fridge behind something bulky so it doesn't disappear too fast when the house is full!
Do support this incredible movement when you shop for cheese. Hover over the local cheese selection and chat with cheesemongers, who, I find, are so knowledgeable and always keen to help recommend the perfect local cheese pairing with such pride.
California Artisan Cheese Guild has held its non-profit status since 2008, though it has been a decade in the making. Today, the guild represents hundreds of members and participates in dozens of events around the country, each year. Click here to check out the guild's website for more information on participating cheesemakers, where to buy, jobs, internships and upcoming events.
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