Calling Britain's foul-mouthed superstar Chef Gordon Ramsey..... West Marin is in dire need of an emergency visit by the sultan of sarcasm, the king of mean. For something is seemingly amiss in the plush new kitchen and picturesque dining room of Nick's Cove, out at the scenic destination spot of Marshall.
Thanks to server supreme, the unflappable Stephanie for keeping my party of six in extremely good spirits on this Saturday night's gourmette's dinner club outing to this far-flung, famously revamped fishing post.
The thing about Nick's Cove is that everyone wants it to be a smashing success. A gorgeous drive from practically anywhere in the North Bay or the city beyond, Nick's is the beaming roadhouse at the end of the weaving, rural ride, a home from home with a full roster of friendly staff, fun menu, top wines, tipsy cocktails, fab, cozy decor and daytime views to die for over Tomales Bay.
So, what's wrong with this picture of raving culinary success? Something to do with the same rustic locale which makes it so appealing in the first place, perhaps. For a weekend crush of triple booked tables takes it toll on even the most patient of wannabe patrons.
With overhead so costly in such a remarkably plush remodel, a stream of customers is clearly key to any restaurant's cashflow equation. Pack 'em in by all means, but don't overbook to the point of back-logged panic on the dining room floor. Swiftly folding teams of happily satiated foodies back into their valet parked cars sounds like a much better plan.
No one seems to have a solution for the chaotic scenes which are purportedly repeating themselves out by the bay. That's where Gordon would come in nicely. In each episode of Ramsey's BBC series of Kitchen Nightmares http://www.bbcamerica.com/content/154/index.jsp he visits a struggling restaurant and acts as a tyrannical troubleshooter to help improve the establishment in just one week. Ramsay revisits the restaurant a few months later to see how business has fared in his absence.
I vote Gordon makes a California debut out at Nick's where the premise is sound, the prospects enormous, but the practicalities of catering to the hungry masses of savvy Bay Area diners seems slightly out of reach in such a remote corner of the coastal range.
Just leave the desserts out of it, Mr. Ramsey. For the gooey chocolate cake with Strauss coffee ice cream is for keeps.
Will Kuleto let down his guard long enough to let a Ramsey type in? Maybe he should!
Posted by: Meloni | Monday, January 21, 2026 at 11:43 AM
I don't think even Gordon R. could help Nicks's Cove. Firstly they made a big mistake getting rid of the jackalope that adorned the wall in NC's previous incarnation. Then they attemped to decorate like a "real fifties fish house" but it ends up looking like a stage set or a Disney ride. It looks like they're imitating Tony's down the road in Marshall...but Tony's is the real thing! The wine prices are outrageous and the oyster presetation racks absurd. And valet parking in West Marin? Come on!
Posted by: trailtrotter | Monday, January 21, 2026 at 03:41 PM
Yes, but with all that said, Nick's Cove still has tremendous potential and I think that that is the point here. Look at the location and as Frances said look at the beautiful drive from just about anywhere in the North Bay. Any really good restaurant depends a lot on the skill of timing both in the kitchen and out, it seems that timing is what is sadly amiss at Nick's and once they get that organized we could be looking at a fantastic spot for lunch, brunch or a delightful dinner.
Posted by: Lesley | Monday, January 21, 2026 at 05:21 PM